Possible pest on begonia
I was just inspecting this rather new begonia of mine and cannot identify these little spherical adhesions to the stem. I’m assuming a pest of some kind? Google is no help. I did find one dried up scale insect when I first got it a couple months ago, and she’s been treated and in quarantine since. But I’d like to be sure. Could you help me identify these please Shannon @SuperbRaspfern Or anyone else who recognizes them.
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@MamaLinne hehehe 🤭 I actually LOVE looking at them up close 😅 You should’ve seen me today, I almost skipped and danced over to my microscope 🔬
@DreamMachine I’m so curious! And I’m kinda with Deb @MamaLinne that there is some bliss in ignorance 😂
Absolutely Nadia, you have nothing to worry about I promise. I bet your room is humid or she is near a humidifier because that is root primordia. It is simply roots forming on her stem. That what they look like when they for and it is typical to get clusters of them. They will be fine sort of strong roots but a bit thicker than string.
Means your plant is healthy!!!
Sorry for the delay. I got busy making covers for my potato bags out of burlap.
Then I created a chickie swing for my baby chick with a broken wing and foot.
She's very content in it with her wing wrapped and her foot braced. But, she needs extra love and likes to nap on me.
I found her yesterday morning and she was stuck and cheeping very loudly. Poor baby must of been fighting to free herself last night.
Means your plant is healthy!!!
Sorry for the delay. I got busy making covers for my potato bags out of burlap.
Then I created a chickie swing for my baby chick with a broken wing and foot.
She's very content in it with her wing wrapped and her foot braced. But, she needs extra love and likes to nap on me.
I found her yesterday morning and she was stuck and cheeping very loudly. Poor baby must of been fighting to free herself last night.
@SuperbRaspfern aww oh my goodness, poor sweetie pie! No apologies needed! Is that a swing made out of an ace bandage kinda thing? 🥹😭
@SuperbRaspfern and thank you! I was thinking roots might also be a possibility, so I just took a qtip with a little bit of iso on it and touched one gently. It instantly turned black and came off the stem, onto the qtip 🤨
Yep, it's the self adhering bandage that sticks to itself but not anything else. It's like the stuff vets use for dogs and cats. It's what I had on hand and I thought that will work and cut a couple let holes. And then put her in there for the afternoon.
She LOVES it and started cheeping loudly when I took her out to lay her down for bed. I had to get creative. It worked great so she can stand on her good leg if she want and move around without falling over. Poor baby flops around otherwise. And sometimes she will fall in her food. So I had to find a way to make her more comfortable.
@debbiedo She's a sweet chickie 🐥. She doesn't have a name yet. But my daughter and I are thinking of naming her something extra special since she's had a rough start. 🩷
She LOVES it and started cheeping loudly when I took her out to lay her down for bed. I had to get creative. It worked great so she can stand on her good leg if she want and move around without falling over. Poor baby flops around otherwise. And sometimes she will fall in her food. So I had to find a way to make her more comfortable.
@debbiedo She's a sweet chickie 🐥. She doesn't have a name yet. But my daughter and I are thinking of naming her something extra special since she's had a rough start. 🩷
@SuperbRaspfern WOW! Super cool, thank you 🙏🤯
Love the creativity around making your chick comfortable to heal 🥰
Love the creativity around making your chick comfortable to heal 🥰
@SuperbRaspfern NOT sticky!! 🙌
Oh! I was noticing something kind of similar the other day in a different plant, but in the pot. Could these also be primordia roots? I was thinking it might be a fungus.
Tagging @Drebsky Brandon Deb @MamaLinne and Debbie @debbiedo too, so they can see the answer.
Oh! I was noticing something kind of similar the other day in a different plant, but in the pot. Could these also be primordia roots? I was thinking it might be a fungus.
Tagging @Drebsky Brandon Deb @MamaLinne and Debbie @debbiedo too, so they can see the answer.
Now that is something wonderful! It's slime mold, when it's in a dormant state from dehydration it turns into little hard balls called sclerotium. It can stay dormant for years waiting for the right conditions to grow again.
Once it's there you can't really kill it off. But, you wouldn't want to either because it is wonderful for plants. It feeds on bacteria, anything decomposing and stuff you don't want. While providing your plant nutrients. Honestly you could douse it in chemicals and it wouldn't die. Amazing stuff.
Lucky you!!!! It's fantastic I've only had it once and was so excited. Because it needs perfect conditions. It's another one of my favorite things. I actually gave the ferns and terrarium that had it to a friend.
I think earlier I read you have a microscope? If you do you could provide warmth and moisture. Then watch it grow from its dormant state for fun in a Petrie dish.
We used to have a microscope and I think I enjoyed it more than the kids!!! 🩷
@Drebsky @debbiedo @MamaLinne
Once it's there you can't really kill it off. But, you wouldn't want to either because it is wonderful for plants. It feeds on bacteria, anything decomposing and stuff you don't want. While providing your plant nutrients. Honestly you could douse it in chemicals and it wouldn't die. Amazing stuff.
Lucky you!!!! It's fantastic I've only had it once and was so excited. Because it needs perfect conditions. It's another one of my favorite things. I actually gave the ferns and terrarium that had it to a friend.
I think earlier I read you have a microscope? If you do you could provide warmth and moisture. Then watch it grow from its dormant state for fun in a Petrie dish.
We used to have a microscope and I think I enjoyed it more than the kids!!! 🩷
@Drebsky @debbiedo @MamaLinne
@DreamMachine @SuperbRaspfern
So good to hear from you Shannon.
Your fuzzy cutie patootie is in good hands!
I love the photo...
Hi dear Nadia.
What a relief...your Begonia is super healthy!
So good to hear from you Shannon.
Your fuzzy cutie patootie is in good hands!
I love the photo...
Hi dear Nadia.
What a relief...your Begonia is super healthy!
@SuperbRaspfern @debbiedo @CutePolypremum @Drebsky This is SO fascinating, and I have so many things to look up now 😱 🤯
@SuperbRaspfern @CutePolypremum @debbiedo @MamaLinne
Oh my gosh what a cool thing to wake up to. This slime mold is just in ambient in my small ring of fire. When it is time to repot, what I’m wondering now is can I disperse it amongst some other plants or will the slime mold do that theirself (themselves 🤔😅)? Would it help those that suffered broad mite damage?
And they are used to map out the most efficient transportation networks?? Maybe they will do the traveling themselves. Did slime molds really map out the Tokyo Subway system?? It’s not a fungi, plant, nor animal!
I’m too excited to go to work this morning 😅 I’m sure my boss will understand that there were slime molds.
Oh my gosh what a cool thing to wake up to. This slime mold is just in ambient in my small ring of fire. When it is time to repot, what I’m wondering now is can I disperse it amongst some other plants or will the slime mold do that theirself (themselves 🤔😅)? Would it help those that suffered broad mite damage?
And they are used to map out the most efficient transportation networks?? Maybe they will do the traveling themselves. Did slime molds really map out the Tokyo Subway system?? It’s not a fungi, plant, nor animal!
I’m too excited to go to work this morning 😅 I’m sure my boss will understand that there were slime molds.
@DreamMachine 🤣🤣I would reframe as “very important environmental scientific research to be done, and only those with fancy microscopes (you) can do it”
Slime mold did in fact do that, in a faux Tokyo like subway setup. It did find its way around the complex system.
It won't actually help with broad mite damage but it won't hurt it either. Because broad mites inject a toxin in the leaves and stem. So it won't be able to access that area to help heal her.
😂I absolutely understand you fascination. When I had it I made the family sit for a presentation and passed my terrarium around.
They politely sat and listened. They acted interested asked question and pretended to be interested. Knowing I would never move on until they knew every detail!!!
They all got progress update as well as show and tell constantly. I just love the stuff!!
You can absolutely spread it around during a repot to share the love, so to speak.
So fun to have someone as excited as I am about it!!! 🩷
It won't actually help with broad mite damage but it won't hurt it either. Because broad mites inject a toxin in the leaves and stem. So it won't be able to access that area to help heal her.
😂I absolutely understand you fascination. When I had it I made the family sit for a presentation and passed my terrarium around.
They politely sat and listened. They acted interested asked question and pretended to be interested. Knowing I would never move on until they knew every detail!!!
They all got progress update as well as show and tell constantly. I just love the stuff!!
You can absolutely spread it around during a repot to share the love, so to speak.
So fun to have someone as excited as I am about it!!! 🩷
@SuperbRaspfern ahhh, you are so endearingly adorable!! I LOVE that you gave a presentation to your family about it, and that obviously they knew the drill 😂😂🤣🤣 You might not have it saved anywhere, but I would be an eager listener to any of your presentations! 😄🙋♀️
I wonder where my slime mold came from, because it’s not in a terrarium, nor with a super high moisture loving fern or anything. It’s just in your basic “thirds” mix with coir, perlite, and orchid bark with a philodendron. Although, I do have naturally high humidity. I don’t have a humidifier and my humidity usually sits between 50-75%. Can the spores float in through the air? Because the plant its in is the closest to our front door. 🤔 Or more likely to already be in one component of my mix?
It is fascinating how they’ve recorded slime molds making intelligent decisions, and problem solving!
One study I’m looking at chopped up a slime mold and dispersed the pieces throughout a maze. Not only did the slime mold find the quickest most efficient way through the maze, it stopped and picked up every piece of itself along the way! 😱😱
I wonder where my slime mold came from, because it’s not in a terrarium, nor with a super high moisture loving fern or anything. It’s just in your basic “thirds” mix with coir, perlite, and orchid bark with a philodendron. Although, I do have naturally high humidity. I don’t have a humidifier and my humidity usually sits between 50-75%. Can the spores float in through the air? Because the plant its in is the closest to our front door. 🤔 Or more likely to already be in one component of my mix?
It is fascinating how they’ve recorded slime molds making intelligent decisions, and problem solving!
One study I’m looking at chopped up a slime mold and dispersed the pieces throughout a maze. Not only did the slime mold find the quickest most efficient way through the maze, it stopped and picked up every piece of itself along the way! 😱😱
While the amoebae cannot travel, through the life cycle they do have a stage of releasing spores. It is quite possible a spore blew in through the wind.
I'm not quite sure how I became the proud owner of one either. But, I was not disappointed. I'm really glad you have the privilege of experiencing it firsthand!
But it could have also been on something you used in the soil. And you had the perfect conditions for the spore to create life. Mine was in a mix of 1/3 perlite/ 1/3 peat moss 1/3 orchid bark. I would think the bark or peat moss may have been the contributor it came in on since they can both decay. The common denominator for us is the bark. But really I have no idea, just happy to have witnessed it firsthand. 🩷
I'm not quite sure how I became the proud owner of one either. But, I was not disappointed. I'm really glad you have the privilege of experiencing it firsthand!
But it could have also been on something you used in the soil. And you had the perfect conditions for the spore to create life. Mine was in a mix of 1/3 perlite/ 1/3 peat moss 1/3 orchid bark. I would think the bark or peat moss may have been the contributor it came in on since they can both decay. The common denominator for us is the bark. But really I have no idea, just happy to have witnessed it firsthand. 🩷
1-White, circular bumps stuck firmly to the stem of your begonia are armored scale insects. Scale insects are tiny, immobile, sap-sucking pests that hide beneath a hard, waxy protective shell. They attach themselves to the stems or leaf veins to feed on the plant's juices, which can weaken the plant over time if left unchecked.
2-Because they have that hard protective "armor," standard pest sprays won't do much against the mature adults you see here.
Here is the best step-by-step method to get rid of them:
Step 1: Isolate the Plant immediately
Scale "crawlers" (the invisible, mobile nymphs) can quickly migrate to nearby plants. Move this begonia to a separate room away from the rest of your collection while you treat it.
Step 2: Manually Remove the Scale Bumps
Because they are physically anchored to the stem, manual removal is the most effective first line of defense.
Dip a cotton swab in 70% isopropyl alcohol and press it directly onto the white spots. The alcohol breaks down their waxy outer coating and kills them.
Use your fingernail, a soft toothbrush, or the edge of a credit card to gently scrape the white disks off the stem. They should pop right off. Be careful not to gouge the tender begonia stem.
Step 3: Spray for the Hidden "Crawlers"
Even after removing the visible shells, microscopic young scale bugs are likely still crawling around the plant.
Thoroughly spray the entire plant—focusing heavily on the stems, crevices, and the undersides of the leaves—with insecticidal soap or organic neem oil.
Step 4: Repeat Weekly
Scale has a persistent life cycle. You will need to repeat the spray treatment every 7 to 10 days for at least 3 to 4 weeks to catch any newly hatched generations before they can mature and build their hard white shells again.
2-Because they have that hard protective "armor," standard pest sprays won't do much against the mature adults you see here.
Here is the best step-by-step method to get rid of them:
Step 1: Isolate the Plant immediately
Scale "crawlers" (the invisible, mobile nymphs) can quickly migrate to nearby plants. Move this begonia to a separate room away from the rest of your collection while you treat it.
Step 2: Manually Remove the Scale Bumps
Because they are physically anchored to the stem, manual removal is the most effective first line of defense.
Dip a cotton swab in 70% isopropyl alcohol and press it directly onto the white spots. The alcohol breaks down their waxy outer coating and kills them.
Use your fingernail, a soft toothbrush, or the edge of a credit card to gently scrape the white disks off the stem. They should pop right off. Be careful not to gouge the tender begonia stem.
Step 3: Spray for the Hidden "Crawlers"
Even after removing the visible shells, microscopic young scale bugs are likely still crawling around the plant.
Thoroughly spray the entire plant—focusing heavily on the stems, crevices, and the undersides of the leaves—with insecticidal soap or organic neem oil.
Step 4: Repeat Weekly
Scale has a persistent life cycle. You will need to repeat the spray treatment every 7 to 10 days for at least 3 to 4 weeks to catch any newly hatched generations before they can mature and build their hard white shells again.
Hi Nadia, I found this on the web. The plant stem exhibits small, white, spherical structures clustered on its surface. These structures are consistent with the oöspores of downy mildew fungi. Downy mildew is a group of oömycete pathogens that cause significant diseases in a wide range of plants, including vegetables, fruits, and ornamentals. The oöspores are the overwintering or survival structures of the pathogen, typically found on infected plant debris or in the soil. Their presence on the stem indicates a past or current infection, and they serve as a source of inoculum for future outbreaks.
Refined Output: Treatment Recommendations and Preventive Measures
Treatment Recommendations
Direct treatment of oöspores is challenging as they are survival structures. The primary focus should be on managing the active disease cycle and preventing future infections.
Sanitation:
Remove and destroy infected plant debris: Carefully remove and dispose of any plant material showing signs of downy mildew, including fallen leaves, stems, and any affected parts. Do not compost this material, as it can harbor the pathogen.
Clean tools and equipment: Sterilize pruning shears, trowels, and other gardening tools that have come into contact with infected plants using a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or rubbing alcohol.
Fungicidal Applications (for active disease):
If active downy mildew symptoms (e.g., fuzzy white or purplish growth on the underside of leaves, yellowing or purpling on the upper side) are observed, fungicidal treatments may be necessary.
Contact fungicides: Copper-based fungicides or mancozeb can be effective in preventing spore germination and spread. Apply thoroughly to all plant surfaces, especially the undersides of leaves.
Systemic fungicides: For severe or persistent infections, systemic fungicides may be recommended. Consult with a local agricultural extension office or a certified plant pathologist for specific product recommendations suitable for your plant type and region.
Application timing: Fungicides are most effective when applied preventatively or at the very first sign of disease. Repeat applications will likely be necessary according to product label instructions.
Preventive Measures
Preventing downy mildew is more effective and sustainable than treating established infections.
Improve Air Circulation:
Proper spacing: Plant crops and ornamental plants with adequate spacing to allow for good air movement. This helps to dry foliage quickly after rain or dew.
Pruning: For woody plants or dense foliage, judicious pruning can improve airflow within the canopy.
Watering Practices:
Water at the base: Water plants at the soil level rather than overhead. This minimizes leaf wetness, which is crucial for downy mildew spore germination.
Water in the morning: Watering in the morning allows foliage to dry thoroughly throughout the day. Avoid watering late in the evening.
Environmental Control:
Resistant varieties: Whenever possible, choose plant varieties that are known to be resistant or tolerant to downy mildew.
Site selection: Plant in locations that receive adequate sunlight and have well-draining soil. Avoid areas that tend to stay wet or humid.
Crop rotation: For vegetable gardens, practice crop rotation, avoiding planting susceptible crops in the same spot year after year.
Monitoring:
Regular inspection: Regularly inspect your plants for early signs of downy mildew, especially during periods of high humidity and moderate temperatures. Early detection allows for prompt intervention.
By implementing these integrated strategies, you can effectively manage and prevent downy mildew infections, ensuring the health and productivity of your plants.
Refined Output: Treatment Recommendations and Preventive Measures
Treatment Recommendations
Direct treatment of oöspores is challenging as they are survival structures. The primary focus should be on managing the active disease cycle and preventing future infections.
Sanitation:
Remove and destroy infected plant debris: Carefully remove and dispose of any plant material showing signs of downy mildew, including fallen leaves, stems, and any affected parts. Do not compost this material, as it can harbor the pathogen.
Clean tools and equipment: Sterilize pruning shears, trowels, and other gardening tools that have come into contact with infected plants using a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or rubbing alcohol.
Fungicidal Applications (for active disease):
If active downy mildew symptoms (e.g., fuzzy white or purplish growth on the underside of leaves, yellowing or purpling on the upper side) are observed, fungicidal treatments may be necessary.
Contact fungicides: Copper-based fungicides or mancozeb can be effective in preventing spore germination and spread. Apply thoroughly to all plant surfaces, especially the undersides of leaves.
Systemic fungicides: For severe or persistent infections, systemic fungicides may be recommended. Consult with a local agricultural extension office or a certified plant pathologist for specific product recommendations suitable for your plant type and region.
Application timing: Fungicides are most effective when applied preventatively or at the very first sign of disease. Repeat applications will likely be necessary according to product label instructions.
Preventive Measures
Preventing downy mildew is more effective and sustainable than treating established infections.
Improve Air Circulation:
Proper spacing: Plant crops and ornamental plants with adequate spacing to allow for good air movement. This helps to dry foliage quickly after rain or dew.
Pruning: For woody plants or dense foliage, judicious pruning can improve airflow within the canopy.
Watering Practices:
Water at the base: Water plants at the soil level rather than overhead. This minimizes leaf wetness, which is crucial for downy mildew spore germination.
Water in the morning: Watering in the morning allows foliage to dry thoroughly throughout the day. Avoid watering late in the evening.
Environmental Control:
Resistant varieties: Whenever possible, choose plant varieties that are known to be resistant or tolerant to downy mildew.
Site selection: Plant in locations that receive adequate sunlight and have well-draining soil. Avoid areas that tend to stay wet or humid.
Crop rotation: For vegetable gardens, practice crop rotation, avoiding planting susceptible crops in the same spot year after year.
Monitoring:
Regular inspection: Regularly inspect your plants for early signs of downy mildew, especially during periods of high humidity and moderate temperatures. Early detection allows for prompt intervention.
By implementing these integrated strategies, you can effectively manage and prevent downy mildew infections, ensuring the health and productivity of your plants.
@Malagueña oh thanks Bob, but we already found out what these were in the comments! You should give them a read, quite fascinating! Primordial roots
The pattern and location seems odd for primordial roots… that plant doesn’t look like it’s been resting up against something and it hasn’t been sitting in water. The shape looks very globular as well.
Is it possible they are actually cystoliths? It could be getting more fertilization than it needs.
Is it possible they are actually cystoliths? It could be getting more fertilization than it needs.