Brown freckles on monstera leaves?
They donβt come off with a scrape of the nail. I know my leaves are dusty and overdue for a wipe π plant and roots are happy and growing, just wondering! #Monstera #identify #damage
Best Answer
@MamaLinne You always want to add the fan AFTER removing the infected leaves. Especially if the fungus has germinated and turned the rusty color.
Sarah can add the fan right away it hasn't germinated yet. But, never add the fan if it's red/ rusty colored they spores will blow all over. π©·
Great Question!
Sarah can add the fan right away it hasn't germinated yet. But, never add the fan if it's red/ rusty colored they spores will blow all over. π©·
Great Question!
Hmm! π€ Iβve never seen that beforeβ¦ @SuperbRaspfern @stephongreg @princesspitstop @MamaLinne @debbiedo
Oh my gosh I am blanking on anyone else growing monsteras. π«
Oh my gosh I am blanking on anyone else growing monsteras. π«
@UberDerenmensis @DreamMachine Oh wow. No. That's a new one on me. Now I'm curious π€
@DreamMachine I donβt know either- is it possible itβs thrips ?
@MamaLinne thrips damage looks different. These spots look almost raised, like in the large brown spot area. Thrips damage can look like silvery scratch marks or stippling, and if this were thrips, I would expect to see thrips larvae or molted skins for this much visible damage. I could be wrong, but thatβs why Iβm not leaning in that direction π€·ββοΈ
@DreamMachine @MamaLinne @princesspitstop I have been fighting through a battle of thrips⦠but this one was marked thrip free and regularly treated with systemics. Could it be scale of some sort?
@UberDerenmensis @DreamMachine @MamaLinne
Here is an article I found on Scale as well as the usual suspects. There are good pictures the author used with a clip on photo lens on their phone. Side note I'm thinking about getting one...
https://www.houseplantjournal.com/scale/
Here is an article I found on Scale as well as the usual suspects. There are good pictures the author used with a clip on photo lens on their phone. Side note I'm thinking about getting one...
https://www.houseplantjournal.com/scale/
@UberDerenmensis @MamaLinne @princesspitstop Oh, so possibly this is past pest damage? Thrips *can* get EVERYWHERE since they can fly. I would not recommend systemics next time though, since there are now thrips that have a resistance built up. Scale can be easily scraped off.
Those leaves do need a clean. Maybe could you clean the leaves and take another picture? And one of the whole plant? When leaves are dusty they canβt photosynthesis as well, and that names them more of a target to pests.
Those leaves do need a clean. Maybe could you clean the leaves and take another picture? And one of the whole plant? When leaves are dusty they canβt photosynthesis as well, and that names them more of a target to pests.
@DreamMachine @MamaLinne @princesspitstop PLEASE give me some tips on thrips!! I donβt think this one is thrip damage, but these mfers are a pain
@UberDerenmensis @MamaLinne @princesspitstop shoot, I may have to eat my words. π Looking at the full picture this does look like it could be damage from those nasty little buggers. Couldnβt see the forest for the trees.
Okay so you have some options. First is the cheapest but most labor intensive. This is Shannonβs @SuperbRaspfern neem oil thrip treatment:
Thrips can fly, crawl and jump.
That means they cover a lot of ground VERY quickly. There will be no safe place to quarantine any other plants inside or out.
Because of this I do advise treating all of the plants, even though they may not look like they have thrips. It's much easier than going through the process over and over. Because the one next to it had one you didn't see.
And there is nothing worse than treating one plant and then having to start again.
To get of them for good, I recommend:
-1 tablespoon pure neem oil, plus
-1/2 teaspoon Castile soap (I like Dr Bronners) mixed with
-4 cups water (32 ounce) in a spray bottle. The soap helps the neem mix with the water so it does not separate.
Spray down plants and don't miss anythingβspray stems, tips and bottoms of leaves all of it! You want it dripping off.
When you water, water with your treatment because the larvae do crawl around the soil.
Treat every 3 days for 6 weeks. DO NOT skip a treatment. If you do, begin the 6 week process over again.
They take longer to eradicate because they burrow into the plant tissue to lay eggs. So itβs more difficult to get them all.
I do not recommend systematics like Bonide because many thrip colonies have built up a resistance. Neem can make your plants photosensitive so itβs a good idea to keep them out of direct sunshine while you are completing this treatment process.
If you have any questions just ask. But this will end your thrip problems for good even though it's a real pain in the butt! π©·
Okay so you have some options. First is the cheapest but most labor intensive. This is Shannonβs @SuperbRaspfern neem oil thrip treatment:
Thrips can fly, crawl and jump.
That means they cover a lot of ground VERY quickly. There will be no safe place to quarantine any other plants inside or out.
Because of this I do advise treating all of the plants, even though they may not look like they have thrips. It's much easier than going through the process over and over. Because the one next to it had one you didn't see.
And there is nothing worse than treating one plant and then having to start again.
To get of them for good, I recommend:
-1 tablespoon pure neem oil, plus
-1/2 teaspoon Castile soap (I like Dr Bronners) mixed with
-4 cups water (32 ounce) in a spray bottle. The soap helps the neem mix with the water so it does not separate.
Spray down plants and don't miss anythingβspray stems, tips and bottoms of leaves all of it! You want it dripping off.
When you water, water with your treatment because the larvae do crawl around the soil.
Treat every 3 days for 6 weeks. DO NOT skip a treatment. If you do, begin the 6 week process over again.
They take longer to eradicate because they burrow into the plant tissue to lay eggs. So itβs more difficult to get them all.
I do not recommend systematics like Bonide because many thrip colonies have built up a resistance. Neem can make your plants photosensitive so itβs a good idea to keep them out of direct sunshine while you are completing this treatment process.
If you have any questions just ask. But this will end your thrip problems for good even though it's a real pain in the butt! π©·
@UberDerenmensis @MamaLinne @princesspitstop
There is another way that is more expensive, but easier. If you are ok with the idea of releasing beneficial predator bugs into your home, there are specialized ones that go for thrips.
DMV Beneficials https://dmvbeneficials.com/
is a nation wide beneficial insect coordinator, they will hook you up with suppliers near you (because with shipping live insects you want them to be coming from as close by as possible).
They offer free consultations and advice to figure out what would work best for you.
I am actually doing this myself right now, not for thrips, but I have broad mites in my collection and Iβm waiting on cucumeris mites. These ones also go for thrips, but you might need a couple different kinds (for larval stage, for adult thrips etc).
My cucumeris mites were actually quite reasonably priced, but DMV will also take your budget into account.
There is another way that is more expensive, but easier. If you are ok with the idea of releasing beneficial predator bugs into your home, there are specialized ones that go for thrips.
DMV Beneficials https://dmvbeneficials.com/
is a nation wide beneficial insect coordinator, they will hook you up with suppliers near you (because with shipping live insects you want them to be coming from as close by as possible).
They offer free consultations and advice to figure out what would work best for you.
I am actually doing this myself right now, not for thrips, but I have broad mites in my collection and Iβm waiting on cucumeris mites. These ones also go for thrips, but you might need a couple different kinds (for larval stage, for adult thrips etc).
My cucumeris mites were actually quite reasonably priced, but DMV will also take your budget into account.
That looks the early stages of rust fungus. Those dots look like the pustules forming. And when I zoom in I see some rings starting around the dots. They will eventually burst and release rust colored spores that will spread to other leaves and plants.
It is usually caused by 2 things.
1. Misting- the biggest cause
2. Bad air flow. Always have a fan running in a room with plants. When they are indoors the air is stagnant. You want to keep the air moving, just like a breeze outdoors. A fan prevents all kinds of problems.
I attached photos of 1 of my monsteras I grew from seed so you can what a healthy monstera should look like.
They should have deep green leaves and stand tall and strong. The leaves should be quite flat with an upwards tilt.
I'm always quite honest, and yours looks overwatered as well. I allow mine to be almost to completely dry before watering.
Here are some steps to treat her:
1. Isolate her immediately!
2. Remove the infected leaves. I know this sounds crazy. But, it will get worse if you don't remove the leaves.
Put them in a garbage bag immediately and throw them away.
(Look at the underside of the leaves it is almost always worse there).
Rust Fungus is embedded in the leaf that's why it won't wipe off.
3. Treat entire plant with a copper fungicide. (I use Captain Jacks Copper Fungicide)
4. Repeat treatment once a week for 3 weeks.
5. Stop Misting- spores germinate with water. So if water is never on the leaves you avoid rust fungus and other fungal infections.
6. Add a fan this is HUGE. It's cheap, easy and really works.
It is usually caused by 2 things.
1. Misting- the biggest cause
2. Bad air flow. Always have a fan running in a room with plants. When they are indoors the air is stagnant. You want to keep the air moving, just like a breeze outdoors. A fan prevents all kinds of problems.
I attached photos of 1 of my monsteras I grew from seed so you can what a healthy monstera should look like.
They should have deep green leaves and stand tall and strong. The leaves should be quite flat with an upwards tilt.
I'm always quite honest, and yours looks overwatered as well. I allow mine to be almost to completely dry before watering.
Here are some steps to treat her:
1. Isolate her immediately!
2. Remove the infected leaves. I know this sounds crazy. But, it will get worse if you don't remove the leaves.
Put them in a garbage bag immediately and throw them away.
(Look at the underside of the leaves it is almost always worse there).
Rust Fungus is embedded in the leaf that's why it won't wipe off.
3. Treat entire plant with a copper fungicide. (I use Captain Jacks Copper Fungicide)
4. Repeat treatment once a week for 3 weeks.
5. Stop Misting- spores germinate with water. So if water is never on the leaves you avoid rust fungus and other fungal infections.
6. Add a fan this is HUGE. It's cheap, easy and really works.
@SuperbRaspfern Iβve always wondered with things like rust fungus and powdery mildew when itβs safe to use a fan again? Iβm always worried about spreading the love.
@MamaLinne with Powdery Mildew same, remove the infected leaves first. If it, has any visible powdery mildew, treat the plant first for 3 weeks, then add the fan.
@SuperbRaspfern oh thank you! Adding this to my folder π
May I ask one more thing? *How* do you apply fungicide like Captain Jacks? Inside? Outdoors? Do you put the plant in something like a box to spray?
Iβm asking because any time Iβm outside Iβve got animals following me around, there arenβt any areas they cant access, and I donβt want to accidentally get it on their fur.
May I ask one more thing? *How* do you apply fungicide like Captain Jacks? Inside? Outdoors? Do you put the plant in something like a box to spray?
Iβm asking because any time Iβm outside Iβve got animals following me around, there arenβt any areas they cant access, and I donβt want to accidentally get it on their fur.
this is a classic case of low humidity. if itβs next to an AC vent, it dries the air out and blows air on the leaves which makes them dry out, and if you donβt have a humidifier near it when itβs next to an air vent, then youβll get those crispy leaves. or if your house is just naturally dry, consider adding a humidifier, especially if you have or want tropical plants, because they are used to humid rainforests and jungles, not dry air.
@SuperbRaspfern @DreamMachine @princesspitstop not her having BOTH rust fungus and powdery mildew!!! Sheβs bald now. If you have any more secret weapons for anything, Iβm all ears!!!!!!
@DreamMachine if I'm using a fungicide I like the bathtub or shower so it stays in one place and is easier to clean up. Like you I've got critters. So if I have to do it I'm extremely cautious. Bathroom with windows open. I just leave them sit there for the duration of treatment.
I also have Velcro pups who are always with me no matter what I'm working on.
I am big on pushing a fan and NO misting. It really dips the likelihood of any fungus and bacterial infections setting in down.
They need that stagnant air to grow along with damp conditions.
I also have Velcro pups who are always with me no matter what I'm working on.
I am big on pushing a fan and NO misting. It really dips the likelihood of any fungus and bacterial infections setting in down.
They need that stagnant air to grow along with damp conditions.
@UberDerenmensis She looks good! I know she got a big haircut. But, she will grow like crazy with the infection treated and gone.
Yours didn't have powdery mildew, just the rust fungus. She'll be fine. I promise Monsteras are fast growers.
She'll grow faster if you water less. The thing with plants is if they stay with water all the time they never need to grow sturdy roots that need to reach for water. You want the root system strong and healthy. That's where she draws up the nutrients and water to grow.
Nothing is more important than the roots. The Foilage is nice but the roots is what gives you a fast growing happy plant with beautiful full leaves.
Be sure to fertilize as well, a liquid fertilizer is very important to give them easy to absorb nutrients. I swear by Super Thrive Foilage Pro. It's not expensive but works wonders.
Garden pests are drawn to weak struggling plants. If it's fed the nutrients it needs it's healthier. I'm not saying you won't still occasionally get pests. You will, especially if you're still adding to your collection. That's how most pests get added into our homes.
I'm just bringing this up since you've been struggling with thrips. π©·
Yours didn't have powdery mildew, just the rust fungus. She'll be fine. I promise Monsteras are fast growers.
She'll grow faster if you water less. The thing with plants is if they stay with water all the time they never need to grow sturdy roots that need to reach for water. You want the root system strong and healthy. That's where she draws up the nutrients and water to grow.
Nothing is more important than the roots. The Foilage is nice but the roots is what gives you a fast growing happy plant with beautiful full leaves.
Be sure to fertilize as well, a liquid fertilizer is very important to give them easy to absorb nutrients. I swear by Super Thrive Foilage Pro. It's not expensive but works wonders.
Garden pests are drawn to weak struggling plants. If it's fed the nutrients it needs it's healthier. I'm not saying you won't still occasionally get pests. You will, especially if you're still adding to your collection. That's how most pests get added into our homes.
I'm just bringing this up since you've been struggling with thrips. π©·
@SuperbRaspfern sheβs got the roots!!! She did have powdery mildew on the other leaves, I just thought she was dirty or leftover from diatomaceous earth I used when the thrips were present. Thank you π©·
@SuperbRaspfern I adore your oasis!
@SuperbRaspfern thank you! Using the bathtub does seem like the best choice. π
And yes I π― agree on fans πͺ I now have one in every room of my house and have not had anything weird or fungal since π
And yes I π― agree on fans πͺ I now have one in every room of my house and have not had anything weird or fungal since π
@UberDerenmensis she looks great! Look at that beautiful leaf and good roots π
I donβt have much to add that Shannon @SuperbRaspfern didnβt already cover, but I will say that if your fan doesnβt oscillate , I like to aim it up into a corner of the room. It helps to get all the air moving and not let any stale air pockets form.
I donβt have much to add that Shannon @SuperbRaspfern didnβt already cover, but I will say that if your fan doesnβt oscillate , I like to aim it up into a corner of the room. It helps to get all the air moving and not let any stale air pockets form.
@DreamMachine Your welcome π©·. And yes, fans are fantastic and such an inexpensive addition to keep our plants healthy.
@HolyLacealoe Awe π₯°, thank you, I appreciate that. I am a bit of a plant hoarder. And have built my collection for over 30 years. My oldest plant is a bonsai that's been with me around 24 years now. It was in my mother's care for 10 so she's very special to me.
Indoor/ Outdoor it doesn't matter I love them all! I forgot about my oasis, I've got many plants to add!
Indoor/ Outdoor it doesn't matter I love them all! I forgot about my oasis, I've got many plants to add!
@DreamMachine do I rinse off the leaves after spraying them and letting them sit? They are so oily!
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