How to Prune Monstera

Monstera deliciosa

Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.

Quick Answer

Prune your monstera in spring or early summer during its active growth period. Cut leggy stems back to a node (the bump where a leaf attaches), remove yellowing leaves, and trim unruly aerial roots. Never remove more than a quarter of the plant at once to avoid stressing it.

When is the best time to prune?

Monstera grows vigorously from spring through fall but rests in winter, so spring pruning gives the plant a full season to push out new leaves from below the cuts.

Pacific

Mar–Jun

Mountain

May–Jul

Midwest

Apr–Jun

Northeast

Apr–Jun

Southeast

Mar–Jun

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Why Should I Prune My Monstera?

Monstera is a climber that can quickly outgrow its space indoors. Pruning keeps it at a manageable size and encourages the plant to produce more leaves instead of just getting longer and leggier.

The most important rule is to always cut just above a node. Nodes are the small bumps on the stem where leaves and aerial roots emerge. The plant can only grow new branches from nodes, so cutting between them leaves a dead stub that eventually rots.

Yellowing or damaged leaves can be removed any time of year. Just cut the leaf stem close to the main vine. If you're doing major reshaping, though, wait for spring. The plant recovers fastest when it's actively growing.

Aerial roots are optional to trim. They look messy to some people, but they help the plant climb and absorb moisture. If you want to keep them, tuck them into the soil or guide them toward a moss pole. Trimming them won't hurt the plant.

Know Before You Cut

Difficulty Easy

Max removal 1/4 of the plant per session

Growth pattern Climbing vine

Tools Sharp pruners or scissors

What Should I Remove?

Cut stems just above a node

Remove yellowing or damaged leaves at the stem

Trim leggy vines to encourage branching

Trim or tuck aerial roots as desired

Don't cut between nodes (the stub will rot)

Don't remove more than 1/4 of the plant at once

Don't prune heavily in winter

How Do I Prune Step by Step?

Find the nodes on each stem

Look for the bumps on the stem where leaves and aerial roots grow. Every cut should be made just above one of these nodes.

Remove yellowing leaves first

Cut the leaf stem close to the main vine. If the leaf is mostly yellow, the plant has already pulled its nutrients back, so removing it is purely cosmetic.

Cut back leggy stems

Identify stems that have long gaps between leaves. Cut them just above a node where you want new growth to emerge. The plant will branch from that point.

Manage aerial roots

Trim aerial roots to a few inches long if you want a tidier look, or redirect them into the pot or a moss pole. Cutting them flush is fine too.

Propagate the cuttings

Stem cuttings with at least one node and one leaf root easily in water. Place them in a jar of water for 2–4 weeks until roots develop, then pot up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where exactly do I cut a monstera stem?

Cut about half an inch above a node, which is the bump where a leaf or aerial root attaches. The node is where new growth will emerge.

Will my monstera get more fenestrations after pruning?

Pruning itself doesn't cause fenestrations. Those develop as leaves mature, especially with bright indirect light. But a pruned plant that produces more leaves may show fenestrations sooner on vigorous new growth.

Can I cut my monstera all the way back?

You can cut it back to a few nodes above the soil, but recovery will be slow and the plant may look bare for months. It's better to do gradual pruning over multiple seasons.

Why is my monstera producing small leaves without holes?

Small, unfenestrated leaves usually mean the plant needs more light. Pruning won't fix this. Move it closer to a bright window and the new leaves should come in larger.

Should I remove the brown tips on monstera leaves?

You can trim brown tips with scissors for looks. Cut just inside the brown area, leaving a thin margin of dry tissue. This prevents cutting into live green tissue, which creates a new wound.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.

Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist

About the Author

Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.

See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.

Editorial Process

Pruning guidance verified against Monstera deliciosa growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.

77,575+ Greg users growing this plant

USDA hardiness zones 10a–12b

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