Aquatic plant recommendations?
I’m getting into aquarium plant keeping but i’ve got no idea what to be on the lookout for, so far i’ve just got some bacopa to start out with because i thought they were pretty neat but i’m unfamiliar with everything else! 🙈
I’ve got a 10 gal tank with the volcanic rock substrate mixed with organic potting soil and an aquarium grow light all ready to go! i’m planning on heading to my local aquatic store and pestmart because i heard they carry aquatic plants there but i’m open to other recommendations! Also i’m not getting fish i just want a planted tank 🥰 I’ll include a photo of the vibes I love! Anything green and fun is right up my alley :) (also preferably not too pricey) #AquaticPlants #HappyPlants #PlantsMakePeopleHappy #PlantAddict
I’ve got a 10 gal tank with the volcanic rock substrate mixed with organic potting soil and an aquarium grow light all ready to go! i’m planning on heading to my local aquatic store and pestmart because i heard they carry aquatic plants there but i’m open to other recommendations! Also i’m not getting fish i just want a planted tank 🥰 I’ll include a photo of the vibes I love! Anything green and fun is right up my alley :) (also preferably not too pricey) #AquaticPlants #HappyPlants #PlantsMakePeopleHappy #PlantAddict
4
Best Answer
Yay! More people getting into aquatics :)
Firstly, if you wanna go with the compost route, MAKE SURE it is organic. There are MILLIONS of stuff that can affect your plants, since being in a glass box means that toxins don't disperse as easily. Instead of volcanic substrate, I recommend using sand to cap the soil. Use a thin layer of compost [not more than an inch!] and about 1.5-2in. of sand. Alternatively you can scrap it and get aquasoil. More expensive but more controlled.
Secondly, ensure the light is suitable. Check that the light is rated at least 0.25-0.5 watts per litre [1 gallon=4L]. But for better accuracy, I like to use lumens, at 10-20 lumens per litre. If it's white light, make sure it's close to 6,000-6,500K, or use a RGB light. Note that this is for LEDs, since they are most efficient.
Thirdly, try to get a filter, or at least a pump. This is to prevent 'dead spots' where substances can congregate and be a nuisance. Get one rated at 4-6 times the tank volume per hour. Hang-on-back or internal filters are cheap and do the job well.
Fourthly, get ready the following:
1., tap water conditioner to dechlorinate water [preferably one that removes or detoxifies heavy metals, such as Seachem Prime, API Aqua Essential or Microbe-Lift Xtreme]
2., beneficial bacteria culture that turns dangerous ammonia to still-dangerous nitrite to not-so-dangerous nitrate [I'll elaborate later, good ones are Seachem Stability, API Quick Start and Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II]
3., aquarium siphon for weekly water change
4., aquascaping tweezers and scissors [shorter ones are easier to handle]
5., 3-5 gallon bucket [new one, free of chemicals]
6., algae scraper [there's those with handles and those with magnets—you decide!]
7., aquarium ferts [liquid or tabs are available, use according to manufacturer's instructions. Good ones include Tropica Premium Nutrition or Nutrition Capsules, 2hr Aquarist APT Complete or APT Jazz, API Leaf Zone or Root Tabs, or Seachem Flourish or Flourish Tabs]
8., fish food [use sinking granules. Flakes are too messy. Bettas and guppies need a special food. Good brands are Oase, Hikari, Dennerle or JBL]
Fifth, understand the nitrogen cycle. Any waste from inhabitants [YOU NEED THEM] will produce toxic ammonia. Nitrosomonas bacteria turns it into nitrite, but it's still toxic. Nitrobacter bacteria than turns nitrite into safer nitrate. However, if the nitrate levels were to get out of hand, it can still be toxic. This is where weekly water changes to reset water and aquatic plants come in. They take in nitrates for the nitrogen content to grow. The bacteria are in the beneficial bacteria culture.
Sixth, plants. If the plants you get aren't in great condition, they won't grow and might rot. Always visit a reputable source, such as a renowned aquatic nursery or aquascape supply store. A quick Google can land you with a bajillion good nurseries. Stick with one, as consistency in quality is best. [and aquarium industry isn't easy business]. I recommend going with Anubias [attach on wood/stone], cheaper Buce [like Green Wavy, attach on wood/stone], Java fern [attach on wood/stone], Cryptocoryne, Ludwigia repens 'Rubin' or palustris 'Super Red', Hydrocotyle tripartita [also known as 'Japan'], Rotala rotundifolia or 'Blood Red' [will need higher light], Vallisneria nana, Cyperus helferi, Hygrophila, Java Moss, Nymphaea and Nympoides [gives you a flower if you let them reach the surface, but will block light], Echinodorus [will need root tabs], Limnophila or Aponogeton [sometimes sold as Betta Bulbs]. Floating plants like Salvinia, Red Root Floaters, Water Lettuce or Duckweed absorb excess nutrients, are a good indicator of too little nutrients and block some light, which can help prevent algae.
Seven, cycling the tank. This is to let the tank settle and develop an efficient nitrogen cycle. Let the tank rest for a week or two, removing about 50% of the water every or every other day. After a week you can introduce clean-up crew that eat algae and a week later introduce more inhabitants [more on these later]. During the first month brown diatom algae [not really and algae, but photosynthetic bacteria] might appear. Don't worry, they usually go away on their own.
Eight, inhabitants. Without fish or shrimp, the tank is like a garden without butterflies. I recommend EITHER:
1 betta
6-8 Neon, Green Neon, Black Neon, Cardinal, Rummynose or Ember Tetras
6-8 Pygmy or Dwarf Cory Catfish
8 Galaxy, Emerald or Chilli Rasboras
6 Harlequin or Espei Rasboras
A pair of Dwarf or Honey Gourami [M and F]
2 M 3 F guppies. Endlers stay smaller and breed less
For clean-up crew, the following are good:
2-3 Otocinclus
5-6 Amano Shrimp
A bajillion Cherry Shrimp enough to make you rich
A couple Nerite snails
DO NOT get Chinese Algae Eaters [CAEs, usually the golden one], Siamese Algae Eaters [SAEs, the ones that look like sharks and have a stripe], Plecos [the ones that have a funny mouth and are TANKS] or Bristlenose Plecos [BNs, the name speaks for itself]. SAEs, Plecos and BNs get too large, whereas CAEs get too large AND they are aggressive
Nine, maintenance. Using the scraper, scrape the glass to remove residue or algae. Grab the siphon and bucket and start removing some water [50% for first few weeks, 20-50% afterwards]. Top up the water using dechlorinated tao water, and add a good dose of beneficial bacteria starter. Add a dose of ferts according to manufacturer's instructions, and enjoy!
Ten, final note. For the beginner, the above recommendations are enough. However, other equipment, such as canister filters, COâ‚‚ systems, UV filtration and whatnot are available. These are best undertaken by more experienced fishkeepers and can be used when you feel more comfortable. Aquascapes you see online are by professionals that have at least 50% trial and error over decades of experience. Don't put it too hard on yourself if your tank doesn't look like that. And remember: it's your tank! Do whatever you'd like with it! Make sure to do your research as well! r/aquascapes, r/aquariums and r/plantedtanks are great communities on Reddit, and online fish forums are everywhere! Don't be afraid to ask a question!
Tip: you can grow houseplants in aquariums as well! Get a monstera or pothos cutting and stick it in. Your plants will enjoy the nutritious aquarium water too!
@pamjam read it too! [i insist 😈]
Firstly, if you wanna go with the compost route, MAKE SURE it is organic. There are MILLIONS of stuff that can affect your plants, since being in a glass box means that toxins don't disperse as easily. Instead of volcanic substrate, I recommend using sand to cap the soil. Use a thin layer of compost [not more than an inch!] and about 1.5-2in. of sand. Alternatively you can scrap it and get aquasoil. More expensive but more controlled.
Secondly, ensure the light is suitable. Check that the light is rated at least 0.25-0.5 watts per litre [1 gallon=4L]. But for better accuracy, I like to use lumens, at 10-20 lumens per litre. If it's white light, make sure it's close to 6,000-6,500K, or use a RGB light. Note that this is for LEDs, since they are most efficient.
Thirdly, try to get a filter, or at least a pump. This is to prevent 'dead spots' where substances can congregate and be a nuisance. Get one rated at 4-6 times the tank volume per hour. Hang-on-back or internal filters are cheap and do the job well.
Fourthly, get ready the following:
1., tap water conditioner to dechlorinate water [preferably one that removes or detoxifies heavy metals, such as Seachem Prime, API Aqua Essential or Microbe-Lift Xtreme]
2., beneficial bacteria culture that turns dangerous ammonia to still-dangerous nitrite to not-so-dangerous nitrate [I'll elaborate later, good ones are Seachem Stability, API Quick Start and Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II]
3., aquarium siphon for weekly water change
4., aquascaping tweezers and scissors [shorter ones are easier to handle]
5., 3-5 gallon bucket [new one, free of chemicals]
6., algae scraper [there's those with handles and those with magnets—you decide!]
7., aquarium ferts [liquid or tabs are available, use according to manufacturer's instructions. Good ones include Tropica Premium Nutrition or Nutrition Capsules, 2hr Aquarist APT Complete or APT Jazz, API Leaf Zone or Root Tabs, or Seachem Flourish or Flourish Tabs]
8., fish food [use sinking granules. Flakes are too messy. Bettas and guppies need a special food. Good brands are Oase, Hikari, Dennerle or JBL]
Fifth, understand the nitrogen cycle. Any waste from inhabitants [YOU NEED THEM] will produce toxic ammonia. Nitrosomonas bacteria turns it into nitrite, but it's still toxic. Nitrobacter bacteria than turns nitrite into safer nitrate. However, if the nitrate levels were to get out of hand, it can still be toxic. This is where weekly water changes to reset water and aquatic plants come in. They take in nitrates for the nitrogen content to grow. The bacteria are in the beneficial bacteria culture.
Sixth, plants. If the plants you get aren't in great condition, they won't grow and might rot. Always visit a reputable source, such as a renowned aquatic nursery or aquascape supply store. A quick Google can land you with a bajillion good nurseries. Stick with one, as consistency in quality is best. [and aquarium industry isn't easy business]. I recommend going with Anubias [attach on wood/stone], cheaper Buce [like Green Wavy, attach on wood/stone], Java fern [attach on wood/stone], Cryptocoryne, Ludwigia repens 'Rubin' or palustris 'Super Red', Hydrocotyle tripartita [also known as 'Japan'], Rotala rotundifolia or 'Blood Red' [will need higher light], Vallisneria nana, Cyperus helferi, Hygrophila, Java Moss, Nymphaea and Nympoides [gives you a flower if you let them reach the surface, but will block light], Echinodorus [will need root tabs], Limnophila or Aponogeton [sometimes sold as Betta Bulbs]. Floating plants like Salvinia, Red Root Floaters, Water Lettuce or Duckweed absorb excess nutrients, are a good indicator of too little nutrients and block some light, which can help prevent algae.
Seven, cycling the tank. This is to let the tank settle and develop an efficient nitrogen cycle. Let the tank rest for a week or two, removing about 50% of the water every or every other day. After a week you can introduce clean-up crew that eat algae and a week later introduce more inhabitants [more on these later]. During the first month brown diatom algae [not really and algae, but photosynthetic bacteria] might appear. Don't worry, they usually go away on their own.
Eight, inhabitants. Without fish or shrimp, the tank is like a garden without butterflies. I recommend EITHER:
1 betta
6-8 Neon, Green Neon, Black Neon, Cardinal, Rummynose or Ember Tetras
6-8 Pygmy or Dwarf Cory Catfish
8 Galaxy, Emerald or Chilli Rasboras
6 Harlequin or Espei Rasboras
A pair of Dwarf or Honey Gourami [M and F]
2 M 3 F guppies. Endlers stay smaller and breed less
For clean-up crew, the following are good:
2-3 Otocinclus
5-6 Amano Shrimp
A bajillion Cherry Shrimp enough to make you rich
A couple Nerite snails
DO NOT get Chinese Algae Eaters [CAEs, usually the golden one], Siamese Algae Eaters [SAEs, the ones that look like sharks and have a stripe], Plecos [the ones that have a funny mouth and are TANKS] or Bristlenose Plecos [BNs, the name speaks for itself]. SAEs, Plecos and BNs get too large, whereas CAEs get too large AND they are aggressive
Nine, maintenance. Using the scraper, scrape the glass to remove residue or algae. Grab the siphon and bucket and start removing some water [50% for first few weeks, 20-50% afterwards]. Top up the water using dechlorinated tao water, and add a good dose of beneficial bacteria starter. Add a dose of ferts according to manufacturer's instructions, and enjoy!
Ten, final note. For the beginner, the above recommendations are enough. However, other equipment, such as canister filters, COâ‚‚ systems, UV filtration and whatnot are available. These are best undertaken by more experienced fishkeepers and can be used when you feel more comfortable. Aquascapes you see online are by professionals that have at least 50% trial and error over decades of experience. Don't put it too hard on yourself if your tank doesn't look like that. And remember: it's your tank! Do whatever you'd like with it! Make sure to do your research as well! r/aquascapes, r/aquariums and r/plantedtanks are great communities on Reddit, and online fish forums are everywhere! Don't be afraid to ask a question!
Tip: you can grow houseplants in aquariums as well! Get a monstera or pothos cutting and stick it in. Your plants will enjoy the nutritious aquarium water too!
@pamjam read it too! [i insist 😈]
@Araceae I read all of this omg so helpful thank you! 😠i’ve got most of this covered like the leds, and i meant to say aqua soil i dunno why i just said volcanic rock that’s not the one i got! 😂 the tap water conditioner is good to know i’ve been looking for a good brand, i’ve been considering shrimp but i’ve been keeping fish for so long i just don’t think i have it in me the garden with no butterflies analogy is good though! I used CO2 on my old tanks and they worked really well for fish health and vibrancy so i might look into that later down the road again! and omg i knew about the houseplant thing that’s why i was so interested in it i’ve got a monstera growing in an older fish tank 🥰 the plant list is wonderful i’ll bring it with me to the aquatics store saturday! i was watching this tiktoker who does only planted aquariums and she said you don’t have to siphon because the fish excrement is what causes the soil and tank to get dirty so i might try to get away with that 🤣 Thank you so much for your help!! 💕
@TheFernFae no water change CAN work, but you've gotta have a lot of fast-growing stems and nutrient rich substrate. I remember MJ Aquascaping did one on YouTube, and MD Fish Tanks practically does it all the time [but he isn't too good with names]