Since transitioning from plastic slotted pots to a glass ...
Since transitioning from plastic slotted pots to a glass container around 5 months ago, the humidity has helped her grow so many juicy, hairy roots. They are about twice as thick as the sad, algae-covered roots she came with. Khaki green are original roots, bright green with hair are newer roots.
#HappyPlants #PhalaenopsisOrchid #Phalaenopsis #PhalaenopsisBellinaOrchid
#HappyPlants #PhalaenopsisOrchid #Phalaenopsis #PhalaenopsisBellinaOrchid
0ft to light, indirect
4” pot with drainage
Last watered 1 day ago
4
@smushface I have also done the same transition for one of my phals and I couldn’t be happier with it. Nice job, those roots are thicc!
@RootWrangler I have been doing it with all of my “perpetually thirsty” orchids that I just couldn’t seem to keep hydrated (regardless of whether they’re in summer 50-80% or winter 30% humidity).
I keep a drainage layer on the bottom (lava rock under akedama and sometimes bark), the moss is very *loose* 5A NZ sphagnum, and they are on a seedling heat mat (my heat is poor and these like tropical heat). I let the drainage layer get fully dry and check the lower moss is near dry and the buried roots are white/thirsty before watering. I water just enough to see maybe 1/2cm hit the bottom, then the moss and the orchid will slowly absorb it as it evaporates over the next 5+ days. I lift up the plant slightly when checking the roots, which helps keep the moss from getting compacted. If top roots are looking dry but lower medium is not dry enough for watering, I sometimes give just the top roots a spritz or two with a mister.
I do monitor the roots relatively regularly, the ones that were already unhealthy (off color, patches of gray discoloration) need monitoring and may need trimming after a period of time if whatever is in them looks like it’s proliferating, but the high humidity also gets it growing new roots relatively quickly. As the sphagnum continues to come back to life (photosynthesizing / turning green), it also helps regulate the envirnment (combating bacteria, acidifying the environment, processing nutrients so they’re easier for the orchid to absorb, etc). Taller containers tend to work best. I find that it’s pretty minimal effort and I also think it looks pretty/interesting.
I keep a drainage layer on the bottom (lava rock under akedama and sometimes bark), the moss is very *loose* 5A NZ sphagnum, and they are on a seedling heat mat (my heat is poor and these like tropical heat). I let the drainage layer get fully dry and check the lower moss is near dry and the buried roots are white/thirsty before watering. I water just enough to see maybe 1/2cm hit the bottom, then the moss and the orchid will slowly absorb it as it evaporates over the next 5+ days. I lift up the plant slightly when checking the roots, which helps keep the moss from getting compacted. If top roots are looking dry but lower medium is not dry enough for watering, I sometimes give just the top roots a spritz or two with a mister.
I do monitor the roots relatively regularly, the ones that were already unhealthy (off color, patches of gray discoloration) need monitoring and may need trimming after a period of time if whatever is in them looks like it’s proliferating, but the high humidity also gets it growing new roots relatively quickly. As the sphagnum continues to come back to life (photosynthesizing / turning green), it also helps regulate the envirnment (combating bacteria, acidifying the environment, processing nutrients so they’re easier for the orchid to absorb, etc). Taller containers tend to work best. I find that it’s pretty minimal effort and I also think it looks pretty/interesting.
Mine live in water in a glass vase with the water only on about half way up the roots, little stinkers love it but haven’t bloomed yet
