Eggplant

What's Eating Your Eggplant?

Solanum melongena
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For eggplant, the most likely culprits are flea beetles (tiny black beetles that pinhole new leaves and can defoliate seedlings overnight) and aphids (clusters on new growth that vector viruses). Spider mites explode in hot dry weather and bronze the leaves. Hornworms strip whole branches in a day. Lace bugs leave pale tiny pale dots on leaf undersides.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Tiny shiny black flea beetle (Altica sp.) on a green leaf

Flea beetles

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Shiny black or bronze beetles 1 to 3 mm long that jump like fleas when disturbed. Cluster on the upper surface of fuzzy eggplant leaves, especially in full sun midday. Eggplant is the single most attractive crop in the garden to flea beetles.

What the damage looks like

Hundreds of tiny round pinholes scattered across the leaves, called shothole. New transplants and seedlings can be reduced to lace overnight. Established plants tolerate moderate damage but slow down in fruit set. The damage is unmistakable once you've seen it once.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Floating row cover from transplant through flowering

Cover transplants with lightweight floating row cover (Agribon AG-19 or Reemay, ~$20 for a 10x25 foot piece) the day they go in the ground. Bury or pin the edges so beetles can't crawl under. Leave in place until flowers open, then remove for pollinator access. This is the single most effective home control for flea beetles on eggplant.

Option 2

Kaolin clay coating, weekly through harvest

1

Mix kaolin clay (Surround WP, ~$25 for a 4 lb bag) at 1 cup per gallon of water with a few drops of dish soap.

2

Spray the upper surface of every leaf and the prickly stems until the plant looks chalky white.

3

Reapply weekly and after rain. The white film makes the plant unrecognizable to flea beetles and physically irritates them off.

Option 3

Trap crop with Chinese giant mustard

Plant Chinese giant mustard or a sacrificial eggplant decoy 6 to 10 feet upwind of your main row, two weeks before transplanting your crop. Flea beetles prefer the trap crop and concentrate there. Spray the trap with neem or vacuum it weekly to knock the population down before they spread to the main planting.

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny pear-shaped insects 1 to 3 mm long, in green, black, or pale yellow. Cluster densely on the underside of young leaves and on the soft new growth at branch tips. Often the first colonies arrive on the soft tissue right around the purple flower buds.

What the damage looks like

New leaves curl and twist as aphids drain sap. A sticky shiny film coats leaves below, with black sooty mold growing on it within a week. Worse than the feeding: aphids vector cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses that stunt eggplant for the season with no cure.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from the affected new growth and spray at high pressure on the underside of leaves. Most aphids dislodge and don't make it back to the plant. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks. The fastest cheapest fix and works without chemicals that harm pollinators.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on leaf undersides at dusk

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Brand, ~$10) on the underside of every leaf and along new growth tips at dusk to avoid burning leaves in sun. Eggplant leaves have fine fuzz that holds the spray well. Reapply every 5 days for 3 rounds to cover the egg-to-adult cycle.

Option 3

Companion plant sweet alyssum within 3 feet

Plant sweet alyssum and dill within 3 feet of every two eggplants at transplant time. The flowers feed ladybugs and lacewings whose larvae eat aphids. Established plantings keep aphid pressure low without sprays and let the natural enemies build up over the season.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red-orange specks on the underside of the fuzzy oval leaves, where the leaf hairs trap them and shelter the colonies. Hot dry summer weather over 80F triggers a population boom on stressed eggplant.

What the damage looks like

Tiny pale yellow dots scattered across the upper leaf surface, then bronze patches that spread between the veins. Fine webbing strung between leaves and along stems in heavy infestations. Stressed eggplant defoliates from the bottom up and the fruit harvest stalls within two weeks.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the foliage early morning, every 3 days for 2 weeks

Spray cool water at high pressure on the underside of every leaf for 30 seconds. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off and they hate humid leaf surfaces. Eggplant tolerates a hard rinse well, especially in the heat. Repeat every 3 days for 2 weeks.

Option 2

Neem oil at dusk, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray the underside of every leaf at dusk, avoiding the heat of midday so the oil doesn't burn the fuzzy leaf surface.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult life cycle in summer heat.

Option 3

Mulch and water deeply to reduce heat stress

Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep with straw or shredded leaves to keep the root zone cool and moist. Water deeply twice a week instead of shallow daily watering. Stressed dry eggplant invites mite explosions. A well-watered plant in cool soil holds mite populations down on its own.

Bright green tobacco hornworm caterpillar (Manduca sexta) with white diagonal stripes on a tomato plant

Hornworms

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

A 3 to 4 inch bright green caterpillar with white diagonal stripes and a soft horn at the tail end. The same species that attacks tomato. Eggplant is in the same nightshade family and gets hit when tomatoes are nearby. Hides on the underside of leaves and along stems where the green color blends with the foliage.

What the damage looks like

Big ragged holes appearing overnight, sometimes whole branches stripped to bare prickly stem. Dark green pellet droppings on lower leaves and on the soil below give it away. One hornworm can clear half a plant before you notice it. Damage stops when you remove the caterpillar.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hand-pick at dusk under a blacklight

1

Walk the bed an hour after sunset with a UV blacklight (~$10 to $15 on Amazon).

2

Hornworms glow bright neon green against the dark foliage and become impossible to miss.

3

Pick them off by hand and drop into a jar of soapy water. Repeat every 2 to 3 nights through July and August.

Option 2

Bt spray on leaf undersides at dusk

Mix 1 teaspoon Bt (Monterey or Safer Caterpillar Killer, ~$15) per quart of water. Spray the underside of every leaf at dusk because Bt breaks down in sunlight. Reapply after rain or every 7 days. Bt only affects caterpillars and is safe for bees and pollinators visiting the eggplant flowers.

Option 3

Leave parasitic wasp cocoons alone

If you find a hornworm covered in white rice-grain cocoons, leave that one in the garden. Those are braconid wasp larvae that already killed it from inside. The emerging wasps will hunt down the rest of the hornworms in your bed.

Common myth

Spray a broad-spectrum insecticide to wipe out hornworms.

Broad-spectrum sprays kill the parasitic wasps that already keep hornworm numbers down across nightshade beds. The next generation usually comes back worse because their natural predators are gone. Use Bt or hand-picking, both of which leave the wasps alive.

Adult Andromeda lace bug (Stephanitis takeyai) showing intricate lacy wing pattern

Lace bugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Adults are 3 to 4 mm long with intricate clear lace-patterned wings. The eggplant lace bug is the iconic pest of this crop in the southeast and mid-Atlantic. Adults and dark spiny nymphs cluster only on the underside of the fuzzy leaves. Black tar-like droppings dot the leaf underside and confirm the pest before you spot the bug.

What the damage looks like

Pale yellow tiny pale dots spreading across the upper leaf surface as bugs feed from below. Heavy feeding turns leaves silvery, then bronze, then crispy. Black shiny droppings on the underside are the telltale sign. Lace bugs prefer eggplant in midsummer when populations build through several generations.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Insecticidal soap on leaf undersides, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Tilt the leaves up and spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Brand, ~$10) directly on the underside where the bugs and nymphs cluster.

2

Hit every leaf, top to bottom of the plant. Soap only kills on contact so coverage matters.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds to catch newly hatched nymphs as eggs continue hatching for two weeks.

Option 2

Strong water blast on leaf undersides every 2 days

Aim a hose nozzle up at the underside of every leaf at high pressure. The nymphs are soft and don't survive being knocked off. Adults fly back but their numbers drop with consistent blasting. Free, no chemicals, and safe around the flowers and pollinators.

Option 3

Remove crop debris in fall

Lace bug eggs overwinter on dead eggplant leaves and stems left in the garden. Pull and bag every plant after frost. Do not compost. Clean beds break the lifecycle and keep next season's pressure low. This is the single highest-leverage move for lace bug control.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that defuse eggplant pest pressure before it starts.
1

Row cover from transplant through flowering

Eggplant is the number one flea beetle target in the vegetable garden. Floating row cover from day one until flowers open keeps beetles off seedlings during their most vulnerable weeks and prevents the damage that starts every season's pest cycle.

2

Underleaf check, every Sunday

Aphids, spider mites, and lace bugs all hide on the underside of the fuzzy oval leaves. A weekly 30-second flip-and-scan catches colonies the week they start, well before bronzing or sooty mold gives them away from above.

3

Mulch 2 inches deep at transplant

Straw or shredded leaf mulch around eggplant keeps the root zone cool and moist through summer heat. Stressed dry plants are mite magnets and slow to fruit. A mulched plant holds spider mite pressure down on its own.

4

Pull and bag every plant after frost

Lace bug eggs and flea beetle adults overwinter in eggplant debris. A clean bed breaks the lifecycle and starts next year fresh. Bag and discard. Do not compost nightshade debris because the pest eggs survive a backyard pile.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Solanum melongena field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.