Pomegranate

What's Eating Your Pomegranate?

Punica granatum
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For pomegranate, the most likely culprits are heavy aphid clusters on spring new growth and bud stalks, and leaf-footed bugs that pierce developing fruit and stain the seeds inside. Scale insects build up on woody stems and leaf petioles over a season. Spider mites flare up on drought-stressed trees in hot dry weather.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny pear-shaped insects 1 to 3 mm long, in shades of green, brown, or black. Cluster densely on the soft new growth, on flower bud stalks below the red trumpet blossoms, and on the calyx end of developing fruit. Spring is peak aphid season for pomegranate.

What the damage looks like

New leaves curl and twist as aphids drain sap. Flower bud stalks weaken and drop unopened blossoms. A sticky shiny film coats leaves and the developing fruit below, with black sooty mold growing on the residue over a few weeks. Heavy spring infestations weaken bloom and reduce the year's fruit set.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from the affected new growth and bud stalks and spray at high pressure. Most aphids dislodge and don't make it back to the tree. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks through the spring flush. The fastest, cheapest fix and works without chemicals.

Option 2

Neem oil spray at dusk, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil with 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray the underside of every leaf, the bud stalks, and the calyx end of any developing fruit at dusk.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. Covers the egg-to-adult cycle.

Option 3

Companion plant alyssum or yarrow within 3 feet

Plant alyssum, dill, or yarrow within 3 feet of the trunk. These attract ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on aphids. Established plantings keep pressure low through the spring bloom without sprays and last for years.

Common myth

Spray malathion to kill aphids fast.

Malathion kills aphids but also kills the bees that pollinate pomegranate's red trumpet flowers. Without those pollinators the tree drops blossoms and you lose the season's fruit. Stick with water blasts or neem oil that target aphids without wiping out the beneficials.

Shield-shaped stink bug (Halyomorpha sp., Pentatomidae) on a plant

Leaf-footed bug

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

A large reddish-brown true bug, 18 to 20 mm long, with a narrow white band across the back and flat leaf-shaped flares on the hind legs. Adults feed on developing pomegranates by piercing the leathery rind with a long beak. Iconic pomegranate pest in California, Arizona, and Texas.

What the damage looks like

Pinhole feeding marks on the rind of green fruit. Inside, the seeds (arils) develop with dark stained spots and lose juice and sweetness. Fruit often drops prematurely from the branch. A heavy population can ruin most of the harvest, even on a tree that looks otherwise healthy.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hand-pick adults at dawn into soapy water

1

Walk the tree at dawn while the bugs are still slow. Wear gloves because they can pinch.

2

Knock or pick adults straight into a wide jar of soapy water. They drop fast when disturbed, so hold the jar below the branch.

3

Repeat every 2 to 3 days from fruit set through harvest. Most home growers can clear a small tree this way.

Option 2

Bag developing fruit at golf-ball size

Slip a fine-mesh organza drawstring bag (~$0.50 each in bulk on Amazon) over each fruit when it reaches golf-ball size. Cinch around the stem. The mesh stops the bug's beak from reaching the rind and lets the fruit ripen normally. Worth the effort on small backyard trees with a fruit count under 50.

Option 3

Pyrethrin spray at dusk for heavy populations

For heavy populations on larger trees, spray pyrethrin (PyGanic, ~$25) at dusk. Hit the trunk, lower branches, and the ground around the base where the bugs shelter. Pyrethrin breaks down within hours so it spares most daytime pollinators. Repeat every 7 days through fruit development.

Brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) clustered on a plant stem

Scale insects

Damage
Medium
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Hard or soft brown bumps stuck along the woody stems and the underside of leaf petioles, 1 to 4 mm wide. Look like tiny barnacles glued in place. Pomegranate's slightly thorny multi-trunked form gives scale plenty of bark crevices to hide in. Often appear with a sticky film and black sooty mold.

What the damage looks like

A sticky shiny film on leaves and the ground below. Black sooty mold grows on the residue over weeks. Yellowing leaves around clusters and slow dieback of small inner branches. Heavy infestations weaken the tree over a season and reduce next year's bloom and fruit set.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Scrub and oil weekly for 4 weeks

1

Wet the affected stems and leaf petioles with horticultural oil (Bonide All Seasons, ~$15).

2

Scrub gently with a soft toothbrush to dislodge bumps and break the waxy seal. Watch for the small thorns on woody stems.

3

Spray a final coat of oil and leave on. Repeat weekly for 4 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers.

Option 2

Dormant oil spray in late winter

Spray dormant oil (Bonide All Seasons, ~$15) on the bare branches in late winter before bud break. The oil smothers overwintering scale on the woody stems before the spring crawler hatch. One thorough spray on a dormant tree clears more scale than weeks of in-season spraying.

Option 3

Prune out heavily infested inner branches

Cut out small inner branches that are crusted with scale. Pomegranate handles hard pruning well and resprouts from the multi-trunked base. Bag and dispose of cuttings. Do not compost. Opening the canopy also discourages scale, which prefers shaded crowded growth.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red-orange specks running along the underside of the glossy oval leaves. Drought-stressed pomegranates in hot dry summer weather are the typical trigger. Trees in containers or under-watered ground trees flare up first.

What the damage looks like

Tiny pale dots tiny pale dots the upper leaf surface, then bronze patches that spread across whole leaves. Fine webbing strung between the leaf and the slightly thorny stem in heavy infestations. Affected leaves drop early and the tree puts less energy into ripening fruit through late summer.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the foliage weekly for 3 weeks

Spray cool water from a hose on the underside of every leaf for 30 seconds, working up from the lower branches. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off, and the rinse humidity slows survivors. Pomegranate's glossy leaves shed water well. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks.

Option 2

Fix the underlying drought stress first

Spider mites flare on a thirsty pomegranate. Deep-water the root zone (1 to 2 inches per week through hot weather) and mulch 2 to 3 inches deep out to the drip line. A well-watered tree resists mite outbreaks even in a hot dry summer.

Option 3

Insecticidal soap, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Soap, ~$10) on the underside of every leaf at dusk.

2

Soap only kills on contact and only when wet, so coverage is everything. Get under the lower-canopy leaves where mites cluster.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. Covers the full mite life cycle.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep pomegranate pests rare and the harvest intact.
1

Bud stalk and underleaf check, every Sunday in spring

Aphids cluster densely on flower bud stalks and new shoot tips through spring. A 30-second weekly scan from bloom through fruit set catches colonies while they're still on one branch and saves the year's fruit.

2

Walk the tree at dawn from fruit set through harvest

Leaf-footed bugs feed on developing fruit and are slow and easy to pick at dawn. A short morning walk through the tree from golf-ball-sized fruit to harvest catches adults before they damage the seeds inside.

3

Dormant oil spray every late winter

Pomegranate drops its leaves in winter, exposing every woody stem. One thorough dormant oil spray on bare branches smothers overwintering scale, mite eggs, and aphid eggs before spring growth starts.

4

Deep water and mulch through summer

A drought-stressed pomegranate is a magnet for spider mites. Deep-water the root zone weekly through hot weather and mulch 2 to 3 inches deep out to the drip line. A well-watered tree shrugs off most pest pressure on its own.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Punica granatum field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.