I repotted Calathea Musaica (Goepertia Network): what do ...
Guten Morgen from Berlin,
After almost three years I repotted the plants in a bigger vase, which seemed struggling to grow. It had always had a few stems.
Now in the soil, I could see all these roots and these marbles shape at the bottom. I have no idea what kind of signal is sending. Does anyone have suggestions, please?
I am trying to figure out how to give her a better life with chances to grow.
The plant has indirect light from a window with mild presence of light.
Thank you
After almost three years I repotted the plants in a bigger vase, which seemed struggling to grow. It had always had a few stems.
Now in the soil, I could see all these roots and these marbles shape at the bottom. I have no idea what kind of signal is sending. Does anyone have suggestions, please?
I am trying to figure out how to give her a better life with chances to grow.
The plant has indirect light from a window with mild presence of light.
Thank you
Hi Renzo, (like the nail polish by the way ππ π
)
From the looks of it, theyβre rhizomes which is what some plants use to store nitrogen so it is capable of producing the shoot and root systems of a new plant.
If you allow the rhizomes to develop, it improves the chances of propagation
If the rhizome develops its own roots and allows buds to to develop before taking it to propagate, to ensure itβs stored up enough energy and nutrients to develop into a healthy new growth.
If you go to repot in about a month or two, your calathea may expand its number.
If any of this is unclear, let me know and ai can clarify and perhaps provide some more information
Hope this helps answer your question. All the best π
From the looks of it, theyβre rhizomes which is what some plants use to store nitrogen so it is capable of producing the shoot and root systems of a new plant.
If you allow the rhizomes to develop, it improves the chances of propagation
If the rhizome develops its own roots and allows buds to to develop before taking it to propagate, to ensure itβs stored up enough energy and nutrients to develop into a healthy new growth.
If you go to repot in about a month or two, your calathea may expand its number.
If any of this is unclear, let me know and ai can clarify and perhaps provide some more information
Hope this helps answer your question. All the best π
@Seymour, @HumbleKawaka They are actually tubers, not rhizomes π Apparantly the calathea tubers are not like you would excpect from other plants, it is not possible to propagate directly from them, but they store water and nitrogen and are a sign of a healthy plant!
I found this video interesting where she explains the difference and her frustration with calathea tubers (last 5 min)π https://youtu.be/YwtNCQnmUpk?si=i3zb4Qb5mlcwHAlH
As we all know calatheas might (will) be fussy. You have a higher chance of making her happy by giving her well-draining soil that also keeps some moisture, never let her stand in water and never let her dry out. Place her somewhere with high humidity, bright indirect light (no direct sun) and out of drafts and sudden temperature changesππ±
I found this video interesting where she explains the difference and her frustration with calathea tubers (last 5 min)π https://youtu.be/YwtNCQnmUpk?si=i3zb4Qb5mlcwHAlH
As we all know calatheas might (will) be fussy. You have a higher chance of making her happy by giving her well-draining soil that also keeps some moisture, never let her stand in water and never let her dry out. Place her somewhere with high humidity, bright indirect light (no direct sun) and out of drafts and sudden temperature changesππ±
@MockingJay I understood they were described as rhizomes but maybe I have been typing too much about Venus Fly Traps, etc
Thanks for the clarification in terminology!
Great video and advice! ππ
Thanks for the clarification in terminology!
Great video and advice! ππ
@Seymour yes I thougt they where rhizomes for a long time tooπ
But now I actually think the rhizomes on the calathea is where the leaves grow directly from? That is the part that you devide when you want to propagate calatheas. Like the part you see here on my yellow fusion before he got his new leavesπ Not a very good pic, but they grow a little "bulby" out of each other and that is practically a new plantπ
@MockingJay I do know rhizomes hold nitrogen etc and plants propagate from them but thanks to you, I will now go some more research as to any difference beyond terminology. Thanks Veronika, it's nice that I learn from you and is the beauty of this app. Thanks again!
Thanks, everyone, for the inspiring and informative exchanges!
@Seymour thanks! Your explanation of rhizome expands my knowledge about it.
@MockingJay grateful you solve the rhizome riddle! Now, yes, I truly struggle to see this plant having more stems and expand. I don't understand how to support her to propagate. I repotted now. What else can I do?
Thanks again for your time and effort.
@Seymour thanks! Your explanation of rhizome expands my knowledge about it.
@MockingJay grateful you solve the rhizome riddle! Now, yes, I truly struggle to see this plant having more stems and expand. I don't understand how to support her to propagate. I repotted now. What else can I do?
Thanks again for your time and effort.
@HumbleKawaka I did get a slightly different response when I checked with one of the top people on these plants who said Calatheas only spread through division. They make pups that can be divided.
Here's am explanation as to the distinction
What is difference between tuber and rhizome?
Answer: Tubers and rhizomes are both modified underground plant stems that serve as storage organs, but they work in two distinct ways: Pattern of development: Rhizomes grow horizontally under the ground and sprout new growth along the underground stem as they grow, whereas tubers can grow in any direction.
Not sure if this helps but all the best with it π
Here's am explanation as to the distinction
What is difference between tuber and rhizome?
Answer: Tubers and rhizomes are both modified underground plant stems that serve as storage organs, but they work in two distinct ways: Pattern of development: Rhizomes grow horizontally under the ground and sprout new growth along the underground stem as they grow, whereas tubers can grow in any direction.
Not sure if this helps but all the best with it π
@Seymour @HumbleKawaka it is true they propagate through division (as is what I said?). The "pups" Seymour refer to are the actual rhizomes I mentioned. As in the pic above, I *could* cut off each off the "arms" on the plant to make new plants, in fact one had already fallen off when I got it so it is a mini-plant now. But it is reccomended they grow a bit bigger first.π± Each part should have healty roots (preferably with some tubers attached) and at least 2 leaves eachπ±π
@HumbleKawaka I am sure your plant is happy with the repot, and maybe it is ready to be devided when next repot is dueπ It is scary the first time! But I believe the Musaica is one of the more forgiving calatheas π€
@MockingJay I think my additional was more to confirm what you said and where I added some confusion with how I used terms poorly. Great diagram!
Thanks a lot again for the expanding dialogue.
Here it is the picture. Basically, I haven't seen much growth in the three years almost she is with me.
I would like to more stems.
Are you suggesting to separate the 'pups' and plant in a smaller pot, for example?
Sorry to ask again, it is just to clearly figure out how to see one my favourite plant to thrive.
Here it is the picture. Basically, I haven't seen much growth in the three years almost she is with me.
I would like to more stems.
Are you suggesting to separate the 'pups' and plant in a smaller pot, for example?
Sorry to ask again, it is just to clearly figure out how to see one my favourite plant to thrive.
@HumbleKawaka hmm I seeπ€ It does not look very happyπ
If it hasn't been growing in the three years you have had it, it might be time to try something different.
Do you have drainage in the pot it is standing in? No drainage often means the bottom roots stands in too much water.
Water it until it drains when the soil is pretty dry (finger test if soil is dry to 2. knuckle).
They might also react to chemicals in tap-water, so it is usually adviced to use destilled or rain-water for calatheas.π§
Also, it looks a little dark in the picture, maybe it wants just a little more light? (Just no direct sunβοΈ, bright indirect light is best).
They like high humidity, humidity above 50% i think should work for the Musaica. Do you have a humidifyer? Or parhaps a cabinet you can put it in to up the humidity a little?
They do not like drafts, don't place it near a drafty window/door or AC or heaterπ«£
The roots did look fine though π€ I am guessing the pot fits the roots and not the leavesπ If the pot is too big they might struggle with too much water from the soil around it.
As you have just repotted it, it will probably be a little stressed for a while. I don't think you should try to split it now, but you might try it as a last resort if the roots still look fine (no squishy or dark brown/black).π±
I am very happy to help. Sorry for all my besserwisserπ«£ I just can't help myself I love calatheas π
Do you have drainage in the pot it is standing in? No drainage often means the bottom roots stands in too much water.
Water it until it drains when the soil is pretty dry (finger test if soil is dry to 2. knuckle).
They might also react to chemicals in tap-water, so it is usually adviced to use destilled or rain-water for calatheas.π§
Also, it looks a little dark in the picture, maybe it wants just a little more light? (Just no direct sunβοΈ, bright indirect light is best).
They like high humidity, humidity above 50% i think should work for the Musaica. Do you have a humidifyer? Or parhaps a cabinet you can put it in to up the humidity a little?
They do not like drafts, don't place it near a drafty window/door or AC or heaterπ«£
The roots did look fine though π€ I am guessing the pot fits the roots and not the leavesπ If the pot is too big they might struggle with too much water from the soil around it.
As you have just repotted it, it will probably be a little stressed for a while. I don't think you should try to split it now, but you might try it as a last resort if the roots still look fine (no squishy or dark brown/black).π±
I am very happy to help. Sorry for all my besserwisserπ«£ I just can't help myself I love calatheas π
We are learning a lot with you, thanks a lot for your effort and time.
Your love for them is my hope for the Goeppertia to live better!
I do have a humidifier, actually I used to use it once a week and water every 10 days, when the soil is dry. Would you do it more often?
Tap water. I learnt to put the tap water in a container 3 days in advance. The chemicals should evaporate. Does it resonate with your experience?
Window is safe, perhaps a bit dark but I can put it closer and in a better position for a bit.
And yep, no drainage so I guess it was suffering and perhaps still does. So will try a solution.
I will work on it and see what happens in the next weeks.
Thanks a lot again
Your love for them is my hope for the Goeppertia to live better!
I do have a humidifier, actually I used to use it once a week and water every 10 days, when the soil is dry. Would you do it more often?
Tap water. I learnt to put the tap water in a container 3 days in advance. The chemicals should evaporate. Does it resonate with your experience?
Window is safe, perhaps a bit dark but I can put it closer and in a better position for a bit.
And yep, no drainage so I guess it was suffering and perhaps still does. So will try a solution.
I will work on it and see what happens in the next weeks.
Thanks a lot again
I think the drainage is the main point here. Put it in a pot with drainage and water it until it drains out it will be much happier!
Every 10 days is probably okayπ€ The scedules I have for mine vary from 5-9 days (now, it differs between seasons), but they either have more leaves or are in a smaller pot than yours. If the soil feels dry to the second knuckle on your finger it is time to water. (Also feel the leaves, if they are starting to feel a little less firm and soil dry you might want to water a little soonerπ)
I am very unsure of how much the tap-water thing actually affect the plants. But I have heard a lot about it so I got scaredπ But I know that they are kind of sensitive to alkaline water/soil (they like it just a little on the acidic side), and if you have lots of minerals in the water it might result in mineral-built up in the plants. And that probably makes an even bigger difference when there is no drainage in the pot, cause then you might never flush it to get rid of excess minerals or salts in the soil!
Every 10 days is probably okayπ€ The scedules I have for mine vary from 5-9 days (now, it differs between seasons), but they either have more leaves or are in a smaller pot than yours. If the soil feels dry to the second knuckle on your finger it is time to water. (Also feel the leaves, if they are starting to feel a little less firm and soil dry you might want to water a little soonerπ)
I am very unsure of how much the tap-water thing actually affect the plants. But I have heard a lot about it so I got scaredπ But I know that they are kind of sensitive to alkaline water/soil (they like it just a little on the acidic side), and if you have lots of minerals in the water it might result in mineral-built up in the plants. And that probably makes an even bigger difference when there is no drainage in the pot, cause then you might never flush it to get rid of excess minerals or salts in the soil!
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