My cathedral window calathea is not doing well.
None of the leaves stand up now, and a lot have gone brown and crispy, even the new growth had started to go brown. What can I do to fix it, and what’s happening?
3ft to light, indirect
4” pot with drainage
Last watered 3 years ago
6
That yellow one can be removed so the plant can focus energy on the other leaves.
Are those other leaves at the bottom newer leaves?
If the plant card is correct, and it was last watered a month ago, the soil needs to be moist and not dry between waterings. Calathea can be picky with tap water too. Switch to distilled water and see if there are improvements.
Are those other leaves at the bottom newer leaves?
If the plant card is correct, and it was last watered a month ago, the soil needs to be moist and not dry between waterings. Calathea can be picky with tap water too. Switch to distilled water and see if there are improvements.
@tia Hello Tia! I have switched to bottled water to water my Rattlesnake plants and it has made sure a huge difference. The third photo is my rehab one. Plus it’s putting out 3 new leaves for me. I also have them near a humidifier, which has made a huge difference as well.
To avoid yellow leaves, Calatheas need bright, indirect light, high humidity, and consistently moist soil. Yellowing leaves can also be caused by stress from overwatering, droughts, temperature extremes, acclimation issues, nutrition, drafts, pests, or old age.
Calatheas leaves turn yellow from stress, and it can happen on the edges, the tips, or all over. Yellowing close to the center of the plant is considered more serious than peripheral coloring. The good news is that, once you’ve solved the issue, Calatheas can be forgiving and will sprout new leaves just as gorgeous as before.
A look at this delicate tropical’s jungle origins reveals why the plant is so demanding. Their native light is bright but heavily filtered; steamy, warm air gently mists the moist organic soil. It’s no wonder proper watering, light, and humidity are so important to the species.
If your Calathea runs into trouble, the way forward is to correct any errors in care without going overboard: no heavy fertilizing, no extra watering, repotting, etc. Trim damaged leaves—they won’t repair themselves, and pruning them won’t harm the plant. Focus on optimal care and let the plant rebound with new growth.
Overwatering
Yellowing leaves is the classic sign of overwatering, and it’s a common cause of Calathea leaves turning yellow. The plant wants consistent, slightly moist soil at all times … however, if you make them sit in a soggy pot, their leaves not only turn yellow, but the roots can be affected.
So, immediately check the soil if you see yellow leaves and also investigate the roots. Make sure there are no mushy, brown areas or a smell of decay that signals potentially deadly root rot.
To find the right watering balance, check their soil regularly. You can’t use a set schedule. Some growers use a moisture meter, but your finger works fine. Only water when the top half-inch of the soil feels dry. Water thoroughly so that it flushes out through the drain holes to carry away excess buildup.
Watering is such a big element of Calathea care that it’s important to consider related factors:
Water Quality – Because they are so sensitive, many growers use rainwater or distilled water for Calatheas. Tap water not only has chlorine and/or chloramine toxins, it may contain minerals and salts that can build up and cause yellow leaves. Consider using one of these cleaner alternatives if your tapwater has a high mineral content. Make sure its room-temperature, too.
Dry Soil
The flip side of the Calathea tightrope is that the plant will be quickly stressed by drought if the soil becomes too dry. Like all stress factors, it can produce yellowing.
Some plants give obvious signs of drooping in dry conditions, but you can’t depend upon a Calathea’s leaves to tell when they’re thirsty. Their animated foliage moves so much in response to temperature and light that it’s not a reliable indicator.
Definitely check the soil moisture if your Calathea closes its leaves in the daytime, but don’t depend upon it as a sign. You must monitor the soil regularly.
Low Humidity
Like many tropical plants, Calatheas want high humidity to look their best. They may survive low humidity, but the stress can trigger yellowing leaves.
The humidity of their original habitat is 90% or more, but indoor plants tolerate 50% to 70%. The variety with the best reputation for dealing with low humidity is the Rattlesnake Plant (Calathea lancifolia), but they still don’t like dry air.
To avoid yellow leaves, Calatheas need bright, indirect light, high humidity, and consistently moist soil. Yellowing leaves can also be caused by stress from overwatering, droughts, temperature extremes, acclimation issues, nutrition, drafts, pests, or old age.
Calatheas leaves turn yellow from stress, and it can happen on the edges, the tips, or all over. Yellowing close to the center of the plant is considered more serious than peripheral coloring. The good news is that, once you’ve solved the issue, Calatheas can be forgiving and will sprout new leaves just as gorgeous as before.
A look at this delicate tropical’s jungle origins reveals why the plant is so demanding. Their native light is bright but heavily filtered; steamy, warm air gently mists the moist organic soil. It’s no wonder proper watering, light, and humidity are so important to the species.
If your Calathea runs into trouble, the way forward is to correct any errors in care without going overboard: no heavy fertilizing, no extra watering, repotting, etc. Trim damaged leaves—they won’t repair themselves, and pruning them won’t harm the plant. Focus on optimal care and let the plant rebound with new growth.
Overwatering
Yellowing leaves is the classic sign of overwatering, and it’s a common cause of Calathea leaves turning yellow. The plant wants consistent, slightly moist soil at all times … however, if you make them sit in a soggy pot, their leaves not only turn yellow, but the roots can be affected.
So, immediately check the soil if you see yellow leaves and also investigate the roots. Make sure there are no mushy, brown areas or a smell of decay that signals potentially deadly root rot.
To find the right watering balance, check their soil regularly. You can’t use a set schedule. Some growers use a moisture meter, but your finger works fine. Only water when the top half-inch of the soil feels dry. Water thoroughly so that it flushes out through the drain holes to carry away excess buildup.
Watering is such a big element of Calathea care that it’s important to consider related factors:
Water Quality – Because they are so sensitive, many growers use rainwater or distilled water for Calatheas. Tap water not only has chlorine and/or chloramine toxins, it may contain minerals and salts that can build up and cause yellow leaves. Consider using one of these cleaner alternatives if your tapwater has a high mineral content. Make sure its room-temperature, too.
Dry Soil
The flip side of the Calathea tightrope is that the plant will be quickly stressed by drought if the soil becomes too dry. Like all stress factors, it can produce yellowing.
Some plants give obvious signs of drooping in dry conditions, but you can’t depend upon a Calathea’s leaves to tell when they’re thirsty. Their animated foliage moves so much in response to temperature and light that it’s not a reliable indicator.
Definitely check the soil moisture if your Calathea closes its leaves in the daytime, but don’t depend upon it as a sign. You must monitor the soil regularly.
Low Humidity
Like many tropical plants, Calatheas want high humidity to look their best. They may survive low humidity, but the stress can trigger yellowing leaves.
The humidity of their original habitat is 90% or more, but indoor plants tolerate 50% to 70%. The variety with the best reputation for dealing with low humidity is the Rattlesnake Plant (Calathea lancifolia), but they still don’t like dry air.
Hey, Tia! What I am seeing is two sets of growth on your plant.
The older floppier growth and the newer bushier growth. If that were my plant, I'd just snip all the older, floppier leaves off and enjoy the compact growth.
It might not be getting enough light to sustain the older leaves.
I see it's near a north window and if you're in the northern hemisphere, that's the lowest amount of light. A grow light much be pretty close to the plant to be effective. How far is the grow light from your plant?
This will also have similar care as your stromanthe Triostar and your maranta.
The older floppier growth and the newer bushier growth. If that were my plant, I'd just snip all the older, floppier leaves off and enjoy the compact growth.
It might not be getting enough light to sustain the older leaves.
I see it's near a north window and if you're in the northern hemisphere, that's the lowest amount of light. A grow light much be pretty close to the plant to be effective. How far is the grow light from your plant?
This will also have similar care as your stromanthe Triostar and your maranta.
I think this is a lack of humidity. Mist it or add pebbles on a tray below with a bit of water to increase humidity