Yellow spots & sticky droplets on bottom of leaves?
My Cathedral Window has these random yellow spots on some leaves but it isn't in direct sunlight at all.
It also has these sticky water like droplets on the bottom side of the leaves?
It is currently potted in a blend of peat moss and sphagnum moss. It is definitely not draining nearly as fast as I think it should and staying saturated for longer than a week at a time.
Any tips on this guy would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance #CathedralWindows #NewPlantMom #CalatheaCrew
It also has these sticky water like droplets on the bottom side of the leaves?
It is currently potted in a blend of peat moss and sphagnum moss. It is definitely not draining nearly as fast as I think it should and staying saturated for longer than a week at a time.
Any tips on this guy would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance #CathedralWindows #NewPlantMom #CalatheaCrew
9
I had this happen to my Calathea warscewiczii this summer. I ended up treating it like a pest issue. Spider mites suck out the sap in the leaves and leave the sticky substance behind in their webs. Something similar can happen with aphids, mealy bugs, or scale. What they leave behind is called “honeydew” but it’s really just their poop. 🤢 Anyway, I ended up wiping each leaf off with a soft cotton cloth with water, then rinsed it thoroughly with water. After it dried off, I sprayed it with neem oil-don’t forget the underside of the leaves. I can’t say for sure what it was, but I didn’t see any aphids. Whatever it was, it has not come back and I check the leaves weekly. I hope this helps!
@PoetSnowpeas Welcome to the Greg community, here’s a website that might help you with the issue of your Calathea: https://homespursuit.com/calathea-yellow-leaves/ As for the sticky droplets This clear sticky substance is honeydew. It is often the first thing gardeners notice when aphids, mites, whitefly, mealybugs, or scale are feeding on their plant. All of these insects suck plant juices and secrete the excess as honeydew. Give insect ridden plants a shower with warm water.
@PoetSnowpeas Welcome to Greg, Andrea!
I agree it’s a pest issue. I think they are Mealybugs.
Mealybugs damage plants by sucking sap and their feeding can result in yellowing leaves, stunting, dieback or death of the plants. They secrete honeydew that supports the growth of black sooty mold on plant parts.
On small infestations on houseplants, a 70% or less solution of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in water may be dabbed directly on mealybugs with a cotton swab to kill them or remove them.
Or you can always use Neem Oil and spray every 7 days for up to a month.
Make sure to isolate your plant from your other plants until the infestation is gone.
I agree it’s a pest issue. I think they are Mealybugs.
Mealybugs damage plants by sucking sap and their feeding can result in yellowing leaves, stunting, dieback or death of the plants. They secrete honeydew that supports the growth of black sooty mold on plant parts.
On small infestations on houseplants, a 70% or less solution of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in water may be dabbed directly on mealybugs with a cotton swab to kill them or remove them.
Or you can always use Neem Oil and spray every 7 days for up to a month.
Make sure to isolate your plant from your other plants until the infestation is gone.
@PoetSnowpeas If there is a sticky sort of substance on the leaves, it is likely what is called “honeydew” and, as some of the prior commenters state, it is a bi product of a pest. I concur that a treatment plan for pests is warranted, but I am chiming in because it appears your plant is also evidencing an infection from a fungal pathogen. Often, when a plant becomes stressed or weakened, it can be a free for all among various parasites, including insects, fungus, bacteria…..
You state that you have doubts that the potting medium is draining sufficiently. If that is the case, then it is likely that excess moisture has accumulated, which sets the stage for fungal pathogens to attach to the plant. Whether the soil issue is the genesis of the problem or not, restoring the health of the plant is likely going to involve a multifaceted approach.
Based on the picture and discussion, it would appear that a treatment plan that addressed both pests and a fungus is warranted, as well a review of the cultural practices and watering technique.
Let’s first address the pests: rinsing the plant in the sink to dislodge whatever insects you can is the best place to start. Some insects will cling on and hide in the nooks and crannies, so following up with an insecticidal soap, which kills the bugs, is a good follow up. You can but readymade or make your own. If you buy cold pressed neem oil it will have multiple applications. Mix 2.5 tablespoons of vegetable or neem oil and 2.5 tablespoons of pure liquid soap (Castille soap preferably) with 1 gallon of distilled warm water. It is important the water is warm to allow the oil to mix with the water. Soap aids in this process. Oil and soap combined together kills the insects as their shells cannot tolerate the compound of the solution.
The following anti-fungal treatment also functions to safeguard the plant from future pest infestations. When the plant absorbs neem oil through the roots, the insects that feed on the plant lose the ability to procreate as the chemical compound disrupts their hormone functioning. It will not kill any bugs on the plant, which is why the soap spray is necessary.
As to l the fungus: Fungal infections are a very common disease on houseplants and occurs when the pathogen, which can be bacterial or fungal nature comes in contact with a houseplant. To treat the fungus, sterilize sharp scissors with rubbing alcohol and cut off any infected leaves. Sterilizing the scissors safeguards against spreading the disease to other houseplants.
Next, prepare a neem oil solution to be sprayed on the leaves and fed into the soil. Neem oil is an old-fashioned, yet highy effective, naturally occurring anti-fungal extract from a plant. Mix one tablespoon of cold-pressed neem oil, one teaspoon of castle soap, and one quart of warm water together. Castille soap is made using a very traditional old-fashioned method; it is potent, yet without unnecessary byproducts. Castille soap also has anti-fungal properties. Water the plant with the solution. Use only enough of the solution to saturate the soil until it runs out the drainage hole. Use a saucer to collect any excess solution that drained and after ten minutes remove the plant from the saucer.
Next, put solution into a spray bottle and spray all surfaces of the leaves. Allow to dry in an area with adequate ventilation and preferably some warm filtered sunlight.
Note: the active ingredient of neem oil degrades in water until it is ineffective after 8 hours in water. Repeat application to soil every three weeks (active ingredient is ineffective in soil after three weeks)
Treating fungus can require several applications. Be sure to quarantine the plant, as the pathogen is contagious. And increase ventilation—a small fan can ideal for this. Keep plants in well ventilated areas and do not let too many plants get too close together because that can create ideal conditions for a fungal outbreak. Wipe away an unnecessary moisture when you water and consider using pebbles as a top dressing to reduce exposure between the soil and the leaves. Ensure proper lighting.
A paper watering technique safeguards against leaf and brown spot and many potential pests and diseases. Preventing fungal infections through sound cultural practices (ensuring proper light, water, etc) is much easier than treating it. When watering, I find that using a watering can with a long narrow spout allows one to have more control and precision. Position the spout underneath leaves and move in a slow methodical fashion so the water can saturate the soil as it moves to the bottom the pot. Be sure to keep the leaves dry. Once water starts coming out of the drainage hole , stop watering.
Since we don’t know what the genesis of the problems are. It would be prudent to review your care regimen and cultural conditions. Review e.g., the light, soil, temperature requirements and evaluation whether there have been deviations and make adjustments accordingly. A plant that is getting too much water, or not enough , or too much light , or not enough, becomes weakened and more vulnerable to parasites.
You can google soil recipes for Calatheas, but a non-fuss option is to amend a pear based quality indoor potting mix, like miracle grow, with some perlite and pine bark (orchid bark). It doesn’t have to be much 10-15% of each. Ensuring suitable potting media is imperative for the plant to thrive.
Lastly, I am going to mention other anti fungal options. Not all fungicides are effective on all pathogens. You can address this by multiple antifungals. Copper based fungicides are readily available, but I’ve been having success with “bio-active” products thar use bacteria to counter pests and pathogens. Bionide and Arber are options.
I hope this helps !
You state that you have doubts that the potting medium is draining sufficiently. If that is the case, then it is likely that excess moisture has accumulated, which sets the stage for fungal pathogens to attach to the plant. Whether the soil issue is the genesis of the problem or not, restoring the health of the plant is likely going to involve a multifaceted approach.
Based on the picture and discussion, it would appear that a treatment plan that addressed both pests and a fungus is warranted, as well a review of the cultural practices and watering technique.
Let’s first address the pests: rinsing the plant in the sink to dislodge whatever insects you can is the best place to start. Some insects will cling on and hide in the nooks and crannies, so following up with an insecticidal soap, which kills the bugs, is a good follow up. You can but readymade or make your own. If you buy cold pressed neem oil it will have multiple applications. Mix 2.5 tablespoons of vegetable or neem oil and 2.5 tablespoons of pure liquid soap (Castille soap preferably) with 1 gallon of distilled warm water. It is important the water is warm to allow the oil to mix with the water. Soap aids in this process. Oil and soap combined together kills the insects as their shells cannot tolerate the compound of the solution.
The following anti-fungal treatment also functions to safeguard the plant from future pest infestations. When the plant absorbs neem oil through the roots, the insects that feed on the plant lose the ability to procreate as the chemical compound disrupts their hormone functioning. It will not kill any bugs on the plant, which is why the soap spray is necessary.
As to l the fungus: Fungal infections are a very common disease on houseplants and occurs when the pathogen, which can be bacterial or fungal nature comes in contact with a houseplant. To treat the fungus, sterilize sharp scissors with rubbing alcohol and cut off any infected leaves. Sterilizing the scissors safeguards against spreading the disease to other houseplants.
Next, prepare a neem oil solution to be sprayed on the leaves and fed into the soil. Neem oil is an old-fashioned, yet highy effective, naturally occurring anti-fungal extract from a plant. Mix one tablespoon of cold-pressed neem oil, one teaspoon of castle soap, and one quart of warm water together. Castille soap is made using a very traditional old-fashioned method; it is potent, yet without unnecessary byproducts. Castille soap also has anti-fungal properties. Water the plant with the solution. Use only enough of the solution to saturate the soil until it runs out the drainage hole. Use a saucer to collect any excess solution that drained and after ten minutes remove the plant from the saucer.
Next, put solution into a spray bottle and spray all surfaces of the leaves. Allow to dry in an area with adequate ventilation and preferably some warm filtered sunlight.
Note: the active ingredient of neem oil degrades in water until it is ineffective after 8 hours in water. Repeat application to soil every three weeks (active ingredient is ineffective in soil after three weeks)
Treating fungus can require several applications. Be sure to quarantine the plant, as the pathogen is contagious. And increase ventilation—a small fan can ideal for this. Keep plants in well ventilated areas and do not let too many plants get too close together because that can create ideal conditions for a fungal outbreak. Wipe away an unnecessary moisture when you water and consider using pebbles as a top dressing to reduce exposure between the soil and the leaves. Ensure proper lighting.
A paper watering technique safeguards against leaf and brown spot and many potential pests and diseases. Preventing fungal infections through sound cultural practices (ensuring proper light, water, etc) is much easier than treating it. When watering, I find that using a watering can with a long narrow spout allows one to have more control and precision. Position the spout underneath leaves and move in a slow methodical fashion so the water can saturate the soil as it moves to the bottom the pot. Be sure to keep the leaves dry. Once water starts coming out of the drainage hole , stop watering.
Since we don’t know what the genesis of the problems are. It would be prudent to review your care regimen and cultural conditions. Review e.g., the light, soil, temperature requirements and evaluation whether there have been deviations and make adjustments accordingly. A plant that is getting too much water, or not enough , or too much light , or not enough, becomes weakened and more vulnerable to parasites.
You can google soil recipes for Calatheas, but a non-fuss option is to amend a pear based quality indoor potting mix, like miracle grow, with some perlite and pine bark (orchid bark). It doesn’t have to be much 10-15% of each. Ensuring suitable potting media is imperative for the plant to thrive.
Lastly, I am going to mention other anti fungal options. Not all fungicides are effective on all pathogens. You can address this by multiple antifungals. Copper based fungicides are readily available, but I’ve been having success with “bio-active” products thar use bacteria to counter pests and pathogens. Bionide and Arber are options.
I hope this helps !
I got a plain cotton balls warm water and washed each leafe off to not draw pests its a natural for them to do this tho mine didn't yellow so get it off look for scale disease on stems