Orchid Buds
My #phalaenopsis #orchid has some dying buds and the roots on one side look questionable. I got it less than week ago. I've watered twice (when the roots are silver) and let it dry out in between. There's no way I killed it in a week 😭 right? The moss is moist in the picture because I just misted it. My bottom leaf is also floppy and I don't know if it because it's an old leaf or the plant is dying. It's in a clear orchid pot with plenty of air/drainage holes. #help
2ft to light, indirect
2” pot without drainage
Last watered 1 year ago
11
@HedwigRhoda
Hi. Welcome to Greg!
What is the lighting situation? They like bright indirect lighting. Think high up in a tree canopy.
It's probably in a little shock from the move to a new environment, but still, here are some basic care tips for you:
I don't know anyone in any situation who has to water a Phal twice per week. Especially not one living solely in sphagnum moss, which is very moisture retentive. My guess is that you are over watering. I have not personally owned one that was completely in moss though. I could be wrong.
I would wait until all of the buds have dropped and then re-pot in a more airy orchid mix (containing bark). Since this plant is used to moss, I would mix the orchid mix and moss. Fill the bottom of the container 1/4 with bark, put a thin layer of moss, more bark, a little more moss, and more bark.... I like my top layer to be bark, but some like moss at the top.
Anyway, the point is that the roots need air. If the roots are constantly covered in water or soaking in dense sphagnum moss, then they aren't getting any air. This will result in rot and your plant will die. So it's good that you're looking at it and asking questions early, because the center core of the plant still looks healthy, as do most of the roots. You can also provide a balanced orchid fertilizer about one every two weeks to once a month, as they are fairly heavy feeders. Never use ice cubes to water...this is a method perpetuated by growers to make it seem easy, but it will damage plant tissues. (And, in my opinion, it's not enough water.)
Be careful misting and watering. Don't get water in / leave water in the leaf "bowl" (near the stem where water catches), as it will lead to the core rotting. If you get water in the leaf "bowl" dry it out as best as you can with a paper towel.
@MusicalRedmint Susann or Debbie @MotherOfOrchids -
If HedwigRhoda wanted to keep the orchid in moss, how often would you think it should be watered? Is twice per week normal for a moss only substrate? Correct any info I've provided that was wrong, or give additional tips.
Hi. Welcome to Greg!
What is the lighting situation? They like bright indirect lighting. Think high up in a tree canopy.
It's probably in a little shock from the move to a new environment, but still, here are some basic care tips for you:
I don't know anyone in any situation who has to water a Phal twice per week. Especially not one living solely in sphagnum moss, which is very moisture retentive. My guess is that you are over watering. I have not personally owned one that was completely in moss though. I could be wrong.
I would wait until all of the buds have dropped and then re-pot in a more airy orchid mix (containing bark). Since this plant is used to moss, I would mix the orchid mix and moss. Fill the bottom of the container 1/4 with bark, put a thin layer of moss, more bark, a little more moss, and more bark.... I like my top layer to be bark, but some like moss at the top.
Anyway, the point is that the roots need air. If the roots are constantly covered in water or soaking in dense sphagnum moss, then they aren't getting any air. This will result in rot and your plant will die. So it's good that you're looking at it and asking questions early, because the center core of the plant still looks healthy, as do most of the roots. You can also provide a balanced orchid fertilizer about one every two weeks to once a month, as they are fairly heavy feeders. Never use ice cubes to water...this is a method perpetuated by growers to make it seem easy, but it will damage plant tissues. (And, in my opinion, it's not enough water.)
Be careful misting and watering. Don't get water in / leave water in the leaf "bowl" (near the stem where water catches), as it will lead to the core rotting. If you get water in the leaf "bowl" dry it out as best as you can with a paper towel.
@MusicalRedmint Susann or Debbie @MotherOfOrchids -
If HedwigRhoda wanted to keep the orchid in moss, how often would you think it should be watered? Is twice per week normal for a moss only substrate? Correct any info I've provided that was wrong, or give additional tips.
Thank you for the shoutout, @UltraKoreanfir So many great tips already. Where to start. How often to water depends entirely on how much you water each time and your surroundings. Some of mine are almost watered daily in summer, in spite of the moss cover I have. But I water very, very lightly, no soaking whatsoever. That is really not that common. Good news is: that is what your transparent pot is for. At the beginning, just check regularly if it needs something, until you get a feel for it. Take out the pot, take a look at it and if there is still condensation inside or the roots look well watered (I.e. green and not silver) delay watering until the change to solve and the pot looks dry.
As for your question about the roots: they do not need to look green in general, those hidden in the pot are often just brown, so the color itself is not the problem. If you mean, however, the thin/dessicated ones, you might be right. Those look as though they have been going through a period of serious dehydration. Some might recover a bit (still looking thinner and wrinkly, but plumping up a bit and fulfilling their job when watered). Some also might die or are already dead. You test this, as you do with any root during repot: touch them. If they are mushy, you cut all the mushy parts away, if they are not, leave them. If they look completely dessicated/wrinkly and brown, you can also remove them, that tissue should be dead. If unsure, just sprinkle some water on it and see if they react at all. 🤷♀️
Most importantly: It's highly unlikely that any of this is your fault. Most orchids from shops are stressed at best when we buy them. In old medium, changing environments several times, subjected to temperature swings and droughts. Many shop clerks also do not now, e.g. how to properly water them. So it's always great, as you did, to trust your instincts and take a look under the hood.
Seeing as how you have come this far already, if you have a ready made orchid mix at home already or the sphagnum and bark suggested by Melisse, I would just repot. If you are gentle about it, it should work out anyway. At most, your blooms might last a few days shorter, but the plant will bloom again in time.
As Melisse also mentioned, full sphagnum can be tricky, depending on your home conditions, so it would give you an easier medium to work with. If you decide to mix the bark and moss, try to connect those layers with a strand of sphagnum. Bark doesn't exchange the moisture between layers, so it's best to have a little sphagnum pipeline through all layers, to distribute the moisture in the pot evenly. Moss is great at that.
Your orchid is beautiful. And you are a very responsible plant mom. It's great that you checked this early. If the roots are actually dead, once you would have started to water normally, they would have rotted fast. The medium would have acidified and even the healthy roots would have been affected.
If you want to learn more on orchids in general or want to watch great hands-on repot tutorials, miss orchid girl on youtube is my go-to channel. She's just terrific and helps a lot, especially if you are a beginner or unsure at some point.
As for your question about the roots: they do not need to look green in general, those hidden in the pot are often just brown, so the color itself is not the problem. If you mean, however, the thin/dessicated ones, you might be right. Those look as though they have been going through a period of serious dehydration. Some might recover a bit (still looking thinner and wrinkly, but plumping up a bit and fulfilling their job when watered). Some also might die or are already dead. You test this, as you do with any root during repot: touch them. If they are mushy, you cut all the mushy parts away, if they are not, leave them. If they look completely dessicated/wrinkly and brown, you can also remove them, that tissue should be dead. If unsure, just sprinkle some water on it and see if they react at all. 🤷♀️
Most importantly: It's highly unlikely that any of this is your fault. Most orchids from shops are stressed at best when we buy them. In old medium, changing environments several times, subjected to temperature swings and droughts. Many shop clerks also do not now, e.g. how to properly water them. So it's always great, as you did, to trust your instincts and take a look under the hood.
Seeing as how you have come this far already, if you have a ready made orchid mix at home already or the sphagnum and bark suggested by Melisse, I would just repot. If you are gentle about it, it should work out anyway. At most, your blooms might last a few days shorter, but the plant will bloom again in time.
As Melisse also mentioned, full sphagnum can be tricky, depending on your home conditions, so it would give you an easier medium to work with. If you decide to mix the bark and moss, try to connect those layers with a strand of sphagnum. Bark doesn't exchange the moisture between layers, so it's best to have a little sphagnum pipeline through all layers, to distribute the moisture in the pot evenly. Moss is great at that.
Your orchid is beautiful. And you are a very responsible plant mom. It's great that you checked this early. If the roots are actually dead, once you would have started to water normally, they would have rotted fast. The medium would have acidified and even the healthy roots would have been affected.
If you want to learn more on orchids in general or want to watch great hands-on repot tutorials, miss orchid girl on youtube is my go-to channel. She's just terrific and helps a lot, especially if you are a beginner or unsure at some point.
@UltraKoreanfir @MusicalRedmint
I don't know if my replies are going through. My phone/app are having some issues. Thanks for all the help! I'll be getting some Better-Gro orchid mix later today and repotting tonight with a little moss mixed in. I'll definitely go check out miss orchid girl's channel. I need all the help I can get.
I don't know if my replies are going through. My phone/app are having some issues. Thanks for all the help! I'll be getting some Better-Gro orchid mix later today and repotting tonight with a little moss mixed in. I'll definitely go check out miss orchid girl's channel. I need all the help I can get.
@UltraKoreanfir The orchid is about 1.5 ft from a window and gets indirect light. The sphagnum moss is what it came in. I'll use your sphagnum/orchid bark technique to repot it tonight. Thanks!
Do not stress too much. Phalaenopsis are not as difficult as their reputation might suggest. They even are rather hardy. The only thing that kills them quickly is rot and it seems you had that in mind already, when you checked the roots. Just take care to get no water on the leaves (especially the leaf joints), the stem and the crown and everything should be fine
@MusicalRedmint I water about 1/4 cup. I never soak. The reason I'm so hyper focused on the roots is because I am terrified of having to trim them, so I just want to keep them as healthy as possible. If I could just leave them alone, I would. What do you put on the roots after trimming with sterile snips? Thanks again! I'm relieved that it's not dying and not my fault 😄
Root trimming is not scary at all. Some rot happens over time. Most of the time we only cut away dead tissue, that doesn't even necessarily need to be sterilized and presents no issue at all. If you cut into the dead tissue, that is not connected to the living plant anymore, so no exchange of pathogens happens. But if you want to be 100% certain: I am always having hydrogen peroxide 3% solution at home. It's not only great against most fungi, but also against algae and some bacterial issues, as well as some unwelcome critters. Just liberally spray the remaining roots, after trimming and everything should be well. In the rare case you do cause a wound on the plant (by accident or remove a spreading infection) a bit cinnamon can be used additionally (above ground, e.g. on leaf cuts) or in regions that get wet, molten wax. I've heard hot glue works as well 😀
If could be that the roots were in a poor condition when you bought the orchid. Orchid nurseries are able to keep the plants in perfect environments - the best humidity for them, the best temperatures, the best lighting. And if they have a poor root system, the perfect conditions help to hide the problem so they wouldn’t display any signs at all. That changes when we get them home as humidity is often a lot lower, temperatures aren’t perfect. This has happened to me before too. But if the roots were looking healthier when you bought it, it could well be from keeping the moss too moist. Moss isn’t the greatest media to use on phals unless you’re in a very hot climate, especially if you’re new to phals or don’t have much experience. Moss will need to dry out completely before watering again. So watering twice a week and misting the moss could well have been too much. If the roots don’t dry out enough, they rot and die off. Moss is also very water retentive so it could be simply that in the nursery, they lightly misted the moss and you get it home and drench it. Because the roots will have adapted for light moisture from misting, as soon as they are waterlogged and in a very wet environment, they won’t cope. Phals are weird in that the root system can’t adapt to a new media or new moisture levels - in the wild, they stay in the same place their entire lives so they’ve never needed to adapt - and so they prefer to kill off the roots and produce new ones that are suited to the new environment. This has happened to me many times too when my watering style doesn’t match up with that of the nurseries’. When this happens, I get it out of the media it came in asap and repot it in my preferred media. Which, in my environment, is bark. It’s important to know that the change of media could well make the orchid lose more roots than you would like for the reason that they are just not adapted to the new media, but new roots will grow and the plant will adapt.
If you find that moss is taking longer than two weeks to dry out completely, it’s the wrong media for your home environment. I’m in the UK and we can’t use moss at all for phals here as it just doesn’t dry and the plant dies! I prefer bark because it’s less water retentive,it ages better in general and a soak (I soak the roots for half an hour, but in moss, you are talking seconds for a soak) can help the roots stay healthy, plump and hydrated. Moss is actually great for helping a new root system develop as it increases humidity around the stem, though you need to be careful that it doesn’t touch the stem. I just add a little layer on the top of the bark, take it off, moisten it and put it back as misting can cause problems with rot. Moving forward, I would remove the flower stem so that the plant focuses its energy on recovering and making a new root system. Phals can and will use all their energy to bloom and stressed phals will often shut down roots and leaves just to keep the blooms healthy. Many phals die because of this, so, it’s always best to remove the flower spike to promote the plant’s health. You can keep the flowers in a vase and they actually live for several weeks! Hope this helps
If you find that moss is taking longer than two weeks to dry out completely, it’s the wrong media for your home environment. I’m in the UK and we can’t use moss at all for phals here as it just doesn’t dry and the plant dies! I prefer bark because it’s less water retentive,it ages better in general and a soak (I soak the roots for half an hour, but in moss, you are talking seconds for a soak) can help the roots stay healthy, plump and hydrated. Moss is actually great for helping a new root system develop as it increases humidity around the stem, though you need to be careful that it doesn’t touch the stem. I just add a little layer on the top of the bark, take it off, moisten it and put it back as misting can cause problems with rot. Moving forward, I would remove the flower stem so that the plant focuses its energy on recovering and making a new root system. Phals can and will use all their energy to bloom and stressed phals will often shut down roots and leaves just to keep the blooms healthy. Many phals die because of this, so, it’s always best to remove the flower spike to promote the plant’s health. You can keep the flowers in a vase and they actually live for several weeks! Hope this helps
@MotherOfOrchids Thanks for the help! I repotted it in bark with a little moss. I live in the US in Louisiana (deep south) and it is hot almost year round. The roots already look happier in the new pot.