Can this Orchid be saved or is she done for?
I’ve never had an Orchid before but I know the don’t need much water. They usually like to grow on the bark of trees and need indirect sun (or at least this type is). This one I bought this way. The spots are where the leaves are the thinnest and although they look like they’d be wet, they aren’t. #Orchids #OrchidLovers #help
6ft to light, indirect
Last watered 3 weeks ago
7
@CaribbeanCanela that poor lady has had so many leaves cut off 😭 From a first glance I thought she is totally fine. Her roots are grey-silver, which means they are thirsty, but they’re still plump and don’t appear to be mushy from sight. I would give her roots a soak in lukewarm water, for at least 20ish minutes, maybe 30, just don’t let the water come up past the crown, where the roots meet the plant.
But, I am now going to tag some orchid aficionados, because this spot that I’ve circled is a bit concerning to me. I would like to hear what they say. Perhaps it’s just the leaf, I’m hoping it’s not some rot that has gotten into the stem area. @MusicalRedmint @MariansOasis
But, I am now going to tag some orchid aficionados, because this spot that I’ve circled is a bit concerning to me. I would like to hear what they say. Perhaps it’s just the leaf, I’m hoping it’s not some rot that has gotten into the stem area. @MusicalRedmint @MariansOasis
Good morning @CaribbeanCanela @DreamMachine well yes, this little lady has been through a lot! It goes to show the strength of the instinct to survive and keep the species going! The good thing is there are lots of roots and as @DreamMachine noted plump silvery green ones. Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes clinging by their roots to trees, branches and such. So you’re right they don’t need much water but think about where they live - it warm, moist from high humidity and water trickles from the canopy of trees and vines above it. So yes their roots are exposed but they are staying hydrated. They also are hanging so water rolls of the leaves and constant air circulation helps to prevent too much water accumulating in between the leaves. We can’t reproduce all that in our homes so we help by not overwatering and not letting water get in the crown area. The pic Nadia pointed out is of some concern. It’s hopefully just that leaf and not down into the crown. Time will tell. In the meantime get her in a clear plastic pot on some bark or sphagnum moss, or a combo of both, that will hold the moisture around her roots in between watering. I wouldn’t cut off any more leaves, I’d let them yellow out and then wait until you can gently pull them off the stem. My thought is when cutting them off you’re leaving behind a perfect hiding place for moisture and bacteria. That last pic is disconcerting to me, I can’t tell if there are bits of old bark stuck to her or if it’s rot.
There’s a lot happening here so I’m going to end here because I’m sure @MusicalRedmint has a lot to add. She’s got tons of experience with Phalaenopsis orchids and with rehab 👍
There’s a lot happening here so I’m going to end here because I’m sure @MusicalRedmint has a lot to add. She’s got tons of experience with Phalaenopsis orchids and with rehab 👍
I have to say I agree when @DreamMachine and @MariansOasis. But I'm not sure how I would approach trying to help it. It is obviously very weakened and sadly, imo, the spot Nadia pointed out (or rather the spots both of them noticed put together) warrant more than just a little concern: whatever the initial cause, rot even close to the stem is always dangerous. In this case, however, it seems to emerge from it, meaning the stem is already affected: If you look at the leaf as a whole there seems to be a clear line where the infection ends (for now), meaning it didn't start there but somewhere in that leaf joint. What's worse, though it might look like it at first glance, that rotting area is not the crown - otherwise we wouldn't see the flower spike emerging from that area (apart from a rare case of a terminal spike, which this isn't either). If you take another look, you can see that this leaf is a lot further down the stem, and it only appears like the crown because the stem above had already lost its leaves - an almost certain indicator for stem rot (unless someone deliberately cut the leaf very close to the stem for some reason). You can even see the remainder of the upper leaves up to the abscision points where the orchid lost them. Add to that the area Marian pointed out. Not only the dark rotted area at the bottom but more importantly the clear yellowing of the beginning of live stem. Often even severe looking rot around the bottom part doesn't mean three stem is affected. Often the v lower part of the stem is already dead. Fungi and bacteria love to feed on dead tissue. As long as it doesn't manage to use that to enter into the part that's still alive, just remove it as best you can, and it should be okay. But that yellowing right above that blackened part in addition to the lost leaves and the visible signs of infection further up the stem.....
I'm sorry, to me it looks like an advanced case of stem rot that has already traveled up the stem of a severely weakened orchid that doesn't have the means to fight it.
Should any assumption I made here be wrong, please correct me - especially regarding the lost leaves directly above the affected leaf Nadia pointed out: did the orchid drop them by itself, or were they cut? That alone could give a lot more clarity.
As for what to do:
If it is indeed stem rot, at this point, I fear it is a lost cause. I myself would probably fight on anyway, but in the knowlege that chances of survival would be ridiculously low. If you decide to fight, basically, you would treat it like any other case of rot and hope for the best:
Cut off all of the infection with a sharp sterile blade in as much of a sterile environment as you can create. Other than when pruning rotting roots, in this case only cut into healthy tissue. You want to cut around the infection, as little as possible, as much as necessary. Like Marian already pointed out, even when cutting just the leaves, there is a high danger of introducing different infections to the plant or spreading the existing one. Now imagine cutting into the stem, the lifeline of the plant. If the infection really is moving from the bottom part upwards, cutting it away would mean loosing all roots and having have a huge and dangerously located wound to protect and heal. There would be a high risk of new infection, it has only few leaves to take in light and water via humidity and those few leaves are compromised as well due to its weakened state. And all of that assuming the rot hasn't yet traveled up the whole stem anyways.
So, to be more positive, let's assume it's "only" an infection on the leaf and that the stem itself is still fine. Again, you would cut away the active infection. To avoid e.g. spores entering through the fresh cut, you could maybe treat the cut with hydrogen peroxide 3%. (Which comes with its own dangers itself. Always remember removing any remaining water after a few minutes and not overdoing it). Then seal the wound by dabbing a small amount of cinnamon powder on the cut. (In the case of cutting the stem, you would use another sealant like candle wax, to protect from water).
But even in this case: since the problem of the leaf extends down to the stem, the cut would probably be damaging the stem and might make matters worse, because the infection is right there when you do.
Let's say this goes okay as well, though.
To recuperate, give it the best conditions. Soak the roots regularly, but be careful not to get water where it doesn't belong (just like the other two already warned. Sound advice for any new orchids as well). Lots of light usually helps recovery. But it doesn't have lots of tissue for photosynthesis left, so it simultaneously needs good light conditions but also is highly susceptible to burns. So given it's state be careful. The leaves of weak, especially dehydrated orchids burn even more easily than usual.
Normally, I'd also raise humidity. But, again, in this case, I'd say the risks of rot would be too high. Even if you are excising the infection as best you can, there almost certainly will be remnants of it left somewhere.
So I guess, all you could do after all that, is wait and hope. water diligently, watching for any new signs of rot. Even in this (in my eyes) best case scenario, and even if no additional infection takes hold, the plant will probably take ages to recover. Normally phal leaves serve as very efficient means of energy storage, which is why neglected phals often suffer unnoticed for a long time before showing real signs of damage. It's also why cutting away any leaves should only be done after careful consideration. Most leaves of your plant already fell off, were already cut (or in the case of the one with the infection need to be) and the remaining ones look weak and depleted. So, to recover, it can't use its "rainy day" energy, but needs to photosynthesize more than a normal weakened phal. And it's ability to do so, again, is also hampered by the lack of healthy tissue. And all of this while dealing with the stress of the infection, the sudden extreme loss of biomass and while healing and protecting the area around the cuts. 😬
Maybe I'm wrong, but to me it looks like even in the best case scenario the road to recovery - let alone the next bloom - is long and dangerous.
I wish you the best of luck, whatever the case.
🤞 fingers crossed.
I'm sorry, to me it looks like an advanced case of stem rot that has already traveled up the stem of a severely weakened orchid that doesn't have the means to fight it.
Should any assumption I made here be wrong, please correct me - especially regarding the lost leaves directly above the affected leaf Nadia pointed out: did the orchid drop them by itself, or were they cut? That alone could give a lot more clarity.
As for what to do:
If it is indeed stem rot, at this point, I fear it is a lost cause. I myself would probably fight on anyway, but in the knowlege that chances of survival would be ridiculously low. If you decide to fight, basically, you would treat it like any other case of rot and hope for the best:
Cut off all of the infection with a sharp sterile blade in as much of a sterile environment as you can create. Other than when pruning rotting roots, in this case only cut into healthy tissue. You want to cut around the infection, as little as possible, as much as necessary. Like Marian already pointed out, even when cutting just the leaves, there is a high danger of introducing different infections to the plant or spreading the existing one. Now imagine cutting into the stem, the lifeline of the plant. If the infection really is moving from the bottom part upwards, cutting it away would mean loosing all roots and having have a huge and dangerously located wound to protect and heal. There would be a high risk of new infection, it has only few leaves to take in light and water via humidity and those few leaves are compromised as well due to its weakened state. And all of that assuming the rot hasn't yet traveled up the whole stem anyways.
So, to be more positive, let's assume it's "only" an infection on the leaf and that the stem itself is still fine. Again, you would cut away the active infection. To avoid e.g. spores entering through the fresh cut, you could maybe treat the cut with hydrogen peroxide 3%. (Which comes with its own dangers itself. Always remember removing any remaining water after a few minutes and not overdoing it). Then seal the wound by dabbing a small amount of cinnamon powder on the cut. (In the case of cutting the stem, you would use another sealant like candle wax, to protect from water).
But even in this case: since the problem of the leaf extends down to the stem, the cut would probably be damaging the stem and might make matters worse, because the infection is right there when you do.
Let's say this goes okay as well, though.
To recuperate, give it the best conditions. Soak the roots regularly, but be careful not to get water where it doesn't belong (just like the other two already warned. Sound advice for any new orchids as well). Lots of light usually helps recovery. But it doesn't have lots of tissue for photosynthesis left, so it simultaneously needs good light conditions but also is highly susceptible to burns. So given it's state be careful. The leaves of weak, especially dehydrated orchids burn even more easily than usual.
Normally, I'd also raise humidity. But, again, in this case, I'd say the risks of rot would be too high. Even if you are excising the infection as best you can, there almost certainly will be remnants of it left somewhere.
So I guess, all you could do after all that, is wait and hope. water diligently, watching for any new signs of rot. Even in this (in my eyes) best case scenario, and even if no additional infection takes hold, the plant will probably take ages to recover. Normally phal leaves serve as very efficient means of energy storage, which is why neglected phals often suffer unnoticed for a long time before showing real signs of damage. It's also why cutting away any leaves should only be done after careful consideration. Most leaves of your plant already fell off, were already cut (or in the case of the one with the infection need to be) and the remaining ones look weak and depleted. So, to recover, it can't use its "rainy day" energy, but needs to photosynthesize more than a normal weakened phal. And it's ability to do so, again, is also hampered by the lack of healthy tissue. And all of this while dealing with the stress of the infection, the sudden extreme loss of biomass and while healing and protecting the area around the cuts. 😬
Maybe I'm wrong, but to me it looks like even in the best case scenario the road to recovery - let alone the next bloom - is long and dangerous.
I wish you the best of luck, whatever the case.
🤞 fingers crossed.
@CaribbeanCanela If you tag Susann like this: @MusicalRedmint then the comment will be found! And my thanks to you Susann as well. Fingers crossed 🤞 Natacha!
@MusicalRedmint oh wahhh sad orchid 😭 I hadn’t read it yet. 😔 But completely understand life life-ing!
Oh, I seem to have forgotten to mention earlier that you are absolutely correct, I am a machine for dreaming 😂 My whole life, always, very intense, vivid, and strangely as I’ve gotten older, more and more complete plot lines. Like a book or movie. Apparently this is how my papa/dad dreams too. He is always the hero, and is always saving the whole world. 🌎 🌍 🦸 I get quite miffed if I’m woken up too soon, and have the story interrupted and left incomplete! When left to my own devices I wake up naturally, as soon as I’m done saving everything. 👏
Oh, I seem to have forgotten to mention earlier that you are absolutely correct, I am a machine for dreaming 😂 My whole life, always, very intense, vivid, and strangely as I’ve gotten older, more and more complete plot lines. Like a book or movie. Apparently this is how my papa/dad dreams too. He is always the hero, and is always saving the whole world. 🌎 🌍 🦸 I get quite miffed if I’m woken up too soon, and have the story interrupted and left incomplete! When left to my own devices I wake up naturally, as soon as I’m done saving everything. 👏
Honestly that orchid does not look difficult to salvage… the root system looks healthy (albeit short), there are plenty of roots, and the roots look like their growth tips are intact. Sure the leaf by that spike is a bit concerning, but it has a good amount of healthy roots and other leaves and that spike is not a terminal one. I think your plant just needs stable conditions, humidity around its roots, and time.
If you have a bathroom that you shower in that has some amount of natural light, I would try keeping it in there until it’s thriving again because the humidity from showering, water usage, and water in the pipes can go a long way toward keeping it happy. Pot it in some loose sphagnum moss (5A premium New Zealand) in your bathroom (let the moss soak up water and squeeze it out before using it to loosely pot the orchid). When you pot it, use as tall a container as possible, preferably something that is clear so you can see and monitor the roots. Drainage doesn’t really matter, but if you don’t have drainage you need to be careful about watering minimally (I’m talking 2-4Tbsp water a week, depending on how fast it’s drying out).
Your orchid should be fine, it just needs humidity and time. Attached is an example of an orchid I got last year that came with extensive root rot (and I think some sort of fungus because it has never totally flourished)… I had to cut off virtually all of its roots, I put it on top of some moss inside a humidity dome on a heating mat, and it looked like that within a few weeks / was pushing out a new root every week and growing about an inch of root per month… and that is a more temperamental kind of orchid than what you have here.
If you have a bathroom that you shower in that has some amount of natural light, I would try keeping it in there until it’s thriving again because the humidity from showering, water usage, and water in the pipes can go a long way toward keeping it happy. Pot it in some loose sphagnum moss (5A premium New Zealand) in your bathroom (let the moss soak up water and squeeze it out before using it to loosely pot the orchid). When you pot it, use as tall a container as possible, preferably something that is clear so you can see and monitor the roots. Drainage doesn’t really matter, but if you don’t have drainage you need to be careful about watering minimally (I’m talking 2-4Tbsp water a week, depending on how fast it’s drying out).
Your orchid should be fine, it just needs humidity and time. Attached is an example of an orchid I got last year that came with extensive root rot (and I think some sort of fungus because it has never totally flourished)… I had to cut off virtually all of its roots, I put it on top of some moss inside a humidity dome on a heating mat, and it looked like that within a few weeks / was pushing out a new root every week and growing about an inch of root per month… and that is a more temperamental kind of orchid than what you have here.
