I noticed some brown crispy leaves. I am following the wa...
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Hi Justine, iβm not sure how much the Greg app tells you to water. However, sometimes I think Greg tells us to water, succulents and cactus too much. Do you know about the chopstick test? Thatβs putting a chopstick down into the soil to the bottom of the pot but not too close to the roots you do not want to break them. Pull the chopstick out and look at it. If the dirt sticks to it thereβs too much water in the soil. I hope this helps. Good luck. οΏΌ
1. Sunburn or Heat Scorch
While Echeverias love intense light to keep their compact shape and vibrant colors, a sudden move into intense, direct outdoor sunβor being pressed against a hot glass windowβcan literally cook the leaf tissue.
The Look: It leaves a permanent, dry, paper-like brown scar right where the sun hit it most directly.
The Fix: The damaged leaf won't heal, but as long as the new growth in the center looks healthy and green, the plant will eventually outgrow it. If you move it to a brighter spot, always acclimate it slowly over a week or two.
2. Past Physical Damage (Callousing)
Succulents are full of water, so if a leaf gets bent, bumped, or nibbled on, it will "bleed" sap and then heal itself by forming a thick, dry, corky brown scar.
The Look: The damage is localized to just one or two leaves that may have been bumped during transport or potting.
The Fix: Leave it alone! The plant has already successfully sealed the wound to protect itself from infection.
3. Natural Leaf Absorption (Normal)
If the crispiness spreads to the entire lowest layer of leaves until they become completely paper-thin and drop off, don't panic. Echeverias naturally reabsorb their oldest, bottom leaves for energy as they grow upwards.
What about the crispy tips?
Take a close look at the very tips of the upper leaves. Echeveria agavoides naturally develops deep red, burgundy, or dark brown tips when it receives excellent lightingβit's actually a sign of a happy plant! However, if the tips are physically shattering or turning black and brittle, it usually points to a past period of severe underwatering or low ambient humidity when the new leaves were first forming.
While Echeverias love intense light to keep their compact shape and vibrant colors, a sudden move into intense, direct outdoor sunβor being pressed against a hot glass windowβcan literally cook the leaf tissue.
The Look: It leaves a permanent, dry, paper-like brown scar right where the sun hit it most directly.
The Fix: The damaged leaf won't heal, but as long as the new growth in the center looks healthy and green, the plant will eventually outgrow it. If you move it to a brighter spot, always acclimate it slowly over a week or two.
2. Past Physical Damage (Callousing)
Succulents are full of water, so if a leaf gets bent, bumped, or nibbled on, it will "bleed" sap and then heal itself by forming a thick, dry, corky brown scar.
The Look: The damage is localized to just one or two leaves that may have been bumped during transport or potting.
The Fix: Leave it alone! The plant has already successfully sealed the wound to protect itself from infection.
3. Natural Leaf Absorption (Normal)
If the crispiness spreads to the entire lowest layer of leaves until they become completely paper-thin and drop off, don't panic. Echeverias naturally reabsorb their oldest, bottom leaves for energy as they grow upwards.
What about the crispy tips?
Take a close look at the very tips of the upper leaves. Echeveria agavoides naturally develops deep red, burgundy, or dark brown tips when it receives excellent lightingβit's actually a sign of a happy plant! However, if the tips are physically shattering or turning black and brittle, it usually points to a past period of severe underwatering or low ambient humidity when the new leaves were first forming.