Xena needs to reclame her warrior
This is a pink prayer plant. She is in an east facing window. She is clearly struggling. What is going on?
8β pot
Last watered 3 years ago
5
Aww, when I first started with prayer plants, I learned that when they get fussy, it could be 2 things:
1) They sit in water cause they don't have enough drainage.
2) Isn't being watered to how much sun it could be receiving. So it could be getting burnt.
I would pull it back a little bit from direct sunlight if you're consistent on the H2O schedule.
Best of luck!
1) They sit in water cause they don't have enough drainage.
2) Isn't being watered to how much sun it could be receiving. So it could be getting burnt.
I would pull it back a little bit from direct sunlight if you're consistent on the H2O schedule.
Best of luck!
Those markings appear consistent with a fungal pathogen, βbrown spot.β Assuming the cultural conditions are satisfactory for your calathea, that leaves either disease or pests. While i recommend that you examine the plant for pests, as sickly plants are more vulnerable, the markings match the profile of a fungal pathogen supports a diagnosis of a fungus as the root cause (no pun intended).
A brown spot infection warrants the following treatment plan: quarantining the plant to stop the spread of the disease to other plants and the application of anti fungal treatments applied as both a foliar spay to treat fungus and fungal spores on the exterior of the plant and a soil drench to be absorbed by the roots and provide systemic resistance to the disease. Additionally, I recommend reviewing the cultural conditions of the plant and evaluating whether any changes need to be made. Lastly, because fungal infections arise from excess moisture or merely from having water splash on the leaves wherein fungal spores can attach to these wet spots, perhaps utilizing a more optimum watering technique that minimizes splashing on the foliage can help safeguard against future outbreaks.
Fungal infections are a very common disease on houseplants and occurs when the pathogen, which can be bacterial or fungal nature comes in contact with a houseplant. Houseplants are vulnerable to a number of fungal infections.
One issue with treating fungal infections is that there is no one-size fits all anti-fungal antidote; different types of anti fungal treatments have better efficacy on brown spot than others. The Clemson College of Agriculture advises that for the treatment of fungal leaf spots, like Brown Spot, the use of βsprays of copper soap,β and β¨Bacillus amyloliquefaciens,β which is a bacteria used to combat the fungus (often referred to as a βbioactive.β ). Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide RTU (ready to use) and Espoma Organic Copper Soap RTU are two brand name examples of a copper fungicide. Bonide Revitalize Biofungicide RTU and Monterey Complete Disease Control RTU are two examples of bioactive options. I personally use Bonide Revitalize.
For Bonide Revitalize, you mix the specified amount of the concentrate into a gallon of distilled water. You feed this into the soil so that the roots absorb it and give the plant systemic resistance. The solution is also utilized a foliar spray, so you will want a spray bottle. To boost the antifungal properties of the foliar spray, I suggest adding castille soap (mild dish soap is okay too) and baking soda, which both have anti fungal properties. For a gallon of water, 4 teaspoons of each. A note of caution: some plants might not react well to baking soda and repeat applications of baking soda can negatively impact the soil. I think covering the soil with a waterproof barrier during any applications would be prudent.
Note: it is much easier to treat a plant to prevent disease infection than it is to treat afterwards. You can use the Bonide concentrate once a week as a soil drench to safeguard against future infections for all your houseplants per the literature provided by Bonide. I add Bonide to the water when I water my plants.
Clemson College of Agriculture also recommends removing any infected plant tissue: sterilize sharp scissors with rubbing alcohol and identify the leaves or plant tissue to remove and then remove the leaves, ensuring that the cuts are clean do not lacerate the plant tissue.
Note: your plant does not have a ton of leaves and if every leaf is infected, the plant wonβt have any leaves left to regenerate f you remove them all. As a rule of thumb, the resources consistently say donβt remove more than 1/3 of a plant at time because it can go into shock. If you have more a third of the plant infected, cut away the necrotic tissue from each leaf and do the best you can to strike a balance. You will have to monitor the plant all that much more closely. In your case I would cut away the necrotic parts of the leaves and hope that whatever remains will allow the plant to limp back to recovery. Ultimately, if the Bonide or equivalent is soaked up by the roots that provides systemic protection to safeguard against the fungus infiltrating down to rhizome. At least that would be the game plan until new leaves are present. Alocasia store some energy in the rhizome, so it is possible that if you cut off every leaf and it would still regenerate. The issue is its like taking a car on a long drive without fuel gauge.
Treating fungus can require several applications. Be sure to quarantine the plant, as the pathogen is contagious. And increase ventilationβa small fan can ideal for this. Keep plants in well ventilated areas and do not let too many plants get too close together because that can create ideal conditions for a fungal outbreak. Wipe away an unnecessary moisture when you water and consider using pebbles as a top dressing to reduce exposure between the soil and the leaves. Ensure proper lighting.
A paper watering technique safeguards against leaf and brown spot and many potential pests and diseases. Preventing fungal infections through sound cultural practices (ensuring proper light, water, etc) is much easier than treating it. When watering, I find that using a watering can with a long narrow spout allows one to have more control and precision. Position the spout underneath leaves and move in a slow methodical fashion so the water can saturate the soil as it moves to the bottom the pot. Be sure to keep the leaves dry. Once water starts coming out of the drainage hole , stop watering. Lastly, ensure that your cultural conditions are in accordance with Greg recommendations. They need indirect light as they will burn in direct light. Iβm lookin at your soil and I see that it has some perlite in it. I generally add some pine bark as well as additional perlite to standard indoor potting mixes as they improve drainage further. Consider adding a top dressing such as polished pebbles to mitigate the risk of infection from soil borne pathogens, like brown spot and the like
Hope this helps !
A brown spot infection warrants the following treatment plan: quarantining the plant to stop the spread of the disease to other plants and the application of anti fungal treatments applied as both a foliar spay to treat fungus and fungal spores on the exterior of the plant and a soil drench to be absorbed by the roots and provide systemic resistance to the disease. Additionally, I recommend reviewing the cultural conditions of the plant and evaluating whether any changes need to be made. Lastly, because fungal infections arise from excess moisture or merely from having water splash on the leaves wherein fungal spores can attach to these wet spots, perhaps utilizing a more optimum watering technique that minimizes splashing on the foliage can help safeguard against future outbreaks.
Fungal infections are a very common disease on houseplants and occurs when the pathogen, which can be bacterial or fungal nature comes in contact with a houseplant. Houseplants are vulnerable to a number of fungal infections.
One issue with treating fungal infections is that there is no one-size fits all anti-fungal antidote; different types of anti fungal treatments have better efficacy on brown spot than others. The Clemson College of Agriculture advises that for the treatment of fungal leaf spots, like Brown Spot, the use of βsprays of copper soap,β and β¨Bacillus amyloliquefaciens,β which is a bacteria used to combat the fungus (often referred to as a βbioactive.β ). Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide RTU (ready to use) and Espoma Organic Copper Soap RTU are two brand name examples of a copper fungicide. Bonide Revitalize Biofungicide RTU and Monterey Complete Disease Control RTU are two examples of bioactive options. I personally use Bonide Revitalize.
For Bonide Revitalize, you mix the specified amount of the concentrate into a gallon of distilled water. You feed this into the soil so that the roots absorb it and give the plant systemic resistance. The solution is also utilized a foliar spray, so you will want a spray bottle. To boost the antifungal properties of the foliar spray, I suggest adding castille soap (mild dish soap is okay too) and baking soda, which both have anti fungal properties. For a gallon of water, 4 teaspoons of each. A note of caution: some plants might not react well to baking soda and repeat applications of baking soda can negatively impact the soil. I think covering the soil with a waterproof barrier during any applications would be prudent.
Note: it is much easier to treat a plant to prevent disease infection than it is to treat afterwards. You can use the Bonide concentrate once a week as a soil drench to safeguard against future infections for all your houseplants per the literature provided by Bonide. I add Bonide to the water when I water my plants.
Clemson College of Agriculture also recommends removing any infected plant tissue: sterilize sharp scissors with rubbing alcohol and identify the leaves or plant tissue to remove and then remove the leaves, ensuring that the cuts are clean do not lacerate the plant tissue.
Note: your plant does not have a ton of leaves and if every leaf is infected, the plant wonβt have any leaves left to regenerate f you remove them all. As a rule of thumb, the resources consistently say donβt remove more than 1/3 of a plant at time because it can go into shock. If you have more a third of the plant infected, cut away the necrotic tissue from each leaf and do the best you can to strike a balance. You will have to monitor the plant all that much more closely. In your case I would cut away the necrotic parts of the leaves and hope that whatever remains will allow the plant to limp back to recovery. Ultimately, if the Bonide or equivalent is soaked up by the roots that provides systemic protection to safeguard against the fungus infiltrating down to rhizome. At least that would be the game plan until new leaves are present. Alocasia store some energy in the rhizome, so it is possible that if you cut off every leaf and it would still regenerate. The issue is its like taking a car on a long drive without fuel gauge.
Treating fungus can require several applications. Be sure to quarantine the plant, as the pathogen is contagious. And increase ventilationβa small fan can ideal for this. Keep plants in well ventilated areas and do not let too many plants get too close together because that can create ideal conditions for a fungal outbreak. Wipe away an unnecessary moisture when you water and consider using pebbles as a top dressing to reduce exposure between the soil and the leaves. Ensure proper lighting.
A paper watering technique safeguards against leaf and brown spot and many potential pests and diseases. Preventing fungal infections through sound cultural practices (ensuring proper light, water, etc) is much easier than treating it. When watering, I find that using a watering can with a long narrow spout allows one to have more control and precision. Position the spout underneath leaves and move in a slow methodical fashion so the water can saturate the soil as it moves to the bottom the pot. Be sure to keep the leaves dry. Once water starts coming out of the drainage hole , stop watering. Lastly, ensure that your cultural conditions are in accordance with Greg recommendations. They need indirect light as they will burn in direct light. Iβm lookin at your soil and I see that it has some perlite in it. I generally add some pine bark as well as additional perlite to standard indoor potting mixes as they improve drainage further. Consider adding a top dressing such as polished pebbles to mitigate the risk of infection from soil borne pathogens, like brown spot and the like
Hope this helps !
Wow that is very detailed. Thanks!!