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Norway Spruce
Picea abies
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
QUICK ANSWER
Seed starting after 1 to 3 months of cold stratification is the most reliable home method and germinates in 3 to 6 weeks. Seedlings grow slowly but the success rate is high once stratification is done correctly.
Semi-hardwood cuttings preserve the exact form of a chosen parent tree but root very slowly over 6 to 12 months and have a low home success rate. Most named dwarf and weeping cultivars are produced commercially by grafting, which is impractical at home.
Semi-hardwood cuttings preserve the exact form of a chosen parent tree but root very slowly over 6 to 12 months and have a low home success rate. Most named dwarf and weeping cultivars are produced commercially by grafting, which is impractical at home.
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From seed
Best for growing many trees from a fresh cone harvest
Semi-hardwood cuttings
Best for preserving the exact form of a dwarf or weeping cultivar
From seed
Time
1–3 months stratification + 3–6 weeks germination
Level
Intermediate
Success rate
High
You'll need
Fresh Norway spruce cones (current season)
Bowl of warm water
Damp sand or peat for stratification
Sealed plastic bag
Seed-starting trays with drainage
Light well-drained seed mix
1
Collect cones in early autumn
Norway spruce cones are long and pendulous. Pick brown but still-closed cones in September or October before they open. Place them in a paper bag in a warm dry spot for 1 to 2 weeks. The cones will open as they dry and release winged seeds.
2
Float test the seed
Drop seeds into warm water for a few hours. Discard floaters, which are usually empty, and keep sinkers, which are filled and have a chance of sprouting.
Norway spruce typically has 50 to 70 percent viability per cone, which is higher than blue spruce, but the float test still saves you from wasting space on dead seed.
Norway spruce typically has 50 to 70 percent viability per cone, which is higher than blue spruce, but the float test still saves you from wasting space on dead seed.
3
Cold stratify for 1 to 3 months
Mix viable seeds into a handful of damp sand or peat, seal in a plastic bag, and refrigerate at 35 to 40 degrees. Stratification breaks dormancy and signals the seeds to sprout in spring. Check weekly for mold and remoisten if the medium dries out.
4
Sow shallowly in spring
Press seeds onto the surface of a moistened seed-starting mix and cover with a quarter-inch layer of mix. Water gently from below to avoid washing the seeds out of place.
5
Keep at 65 to 70 degrees
Place trays in bright indirect light at moderate room temperature. Seedlings emerge in 3 to 6 weeks as fine green needles in a starburst pattern.
Keep the surface lightly damp during germination. Once seedlings are up, let the surface dry between waterings to prevent damping off, the fungal collapse that kills conifer seedlings.
Keep the surface lightly damp during germination. Once seedlings are up, let the surface dry between waterings to prevent damping off, the fungal collapse that kills conifer seedlings.
6
Grow on slowly for 2 to 3 years
Norway spruce seedlings put on 4 to 8 inches of growth per year for the first 3 years, faster than blue spruce. Transplant to deeper pots once they are 4 to 6 inches tall and grow in a sheltered nursery bed before moving to a permanent spot.
WATCH FOR
Fuzzy white mold or sudden seedling collapse at the soil line. This is damping off, a fungal infection that kills young conifer seedlings fast. Add a small fan for airflow, water from below only, let the surface dry between waterings, and remove affected seedlings before the infection spreads to neighbors.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
Time
6–12 months
Level
Advanced
Success rate
Low
You'll need
Sterile pruning shears
Strong rooting hormone (IBA-based)
Deep pots or nursery flat
Coarse sand and perlite mix (50/50)
Cold frame or unheated shaded greenhouse
1
Cut in late summer from a young tree
Take cuttings in August or September from a tree younger than 10 years old, since older trees give cuttings that root much worse. Pick lateral side branches 4 to 6 inches long with a healthy growing tip and firm tan-brown wood at the base. Side branches root better than terminal leader shoots.
2
Strip the bottom needles and wound
Pull the needles off the bottom 2 inches of the cutting. Slice a thin half-inch sliver of bark from one side at the base. The wound exposes more cambium and gives roots more places to emerge.
Spruce roots reluctantly even with hormone. The wound is not optional for this species.
Spruce roots reluctantly even with hormone. The wound is not optional for this species.
3
Dip in strong rooting hormone
Use the strongest IBA-based rooting hormone available, since standard powders often are not enough for spruce. Tap the wounded base in the powder and knock off the excess.
4
Insert into the rooting medium
Push each cutting 1 to 2 inches deep into a moist coarse sand and perlite mix. Firm the medium around the stem. Water gently to settle and place in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse where temperatures stay 40 to 60 degrees.
5
Overwinter undisturbed
Spruce cuttings need a cool dormant period followed by spring warmth to root. Keep the medium barely damp through winter. Do not check or move cuttings, since disturbance breaks the early callus.
6
Check in late spring
By May or June, gently tug each cutting. Resistance means roots have formed, though many cuttings will still be at the callous stage with no true roots yet. Pot up successful cuttings into deep pots and grow on for at least 2 years before considering the tree garden-ready.
WATCH FOR
Cuttings yellowing and shedding needles by midwinter with no callous at the base. The wood was too old, the parent was too mature, or the medium stayed too wet. Try again next summer with cuttings from a young vigorous side branch and use a grittier mix that drains within seconds. Be prepared for under 30 percent success even when everything goes right.
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About This Article
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
Editorial Process
Propagation methods verified against Picea abies growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.
347+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 3a–7a