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Jewel Orchid
Ludisia discolor
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
QUICK ANSWER
Stem cuttings in damp sphagnum moss are the most reliable home method and root in 3 to 5 weeks. Water cuttings let you watch roots form and root in 4 to 6 weeks but transition poorly to soil because Ludisia roots are fleshy and prefer moss from day one.
Division is fastest at 1 to 2 weeks and works only on mature clumps with multiple connected stems.
Division is fastest at 1 to 2 weeks and works only on mature clumps with multiple connected stems.
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Sphagnum moss propagation
Best for the highest success rate on this fleshy stem
Water propagation
Best for beginners who want to watch roots form
Division
Best when your plant is mature with several stems
Sphagnum moss propagation
Time
3–5 weeks
Level
Beginner
Success rate
High
You'll need
Sterile shears or a sharp knife
Long-fiber sphagnum moss
Shallow plastic container with drainage
Clear plastic bag or humidity dome
Spray bottle with filtered water
1
Take a 3 to 4 inch tip cutting
Choose a healthy stem with at least 3 nodes and clean dark green leaves. Cut just below a node with a sterilized blade.
Ludisia stems are fleshy and bruise easily. Use a single firm slice rather than a sawing motion.
Ludisia stems are fleshy and bruise easily. Use a single firm slice rather than a sawing motion.
2
Strip the lowest two leaves
Remove the bottom two leaves so two bare nodes are exposed. Roots emerge from these nodes once they contact damp moss.
3
Soak and squeeze the sphagnum
Soak long-fiber sphagnum in filtered water for 10 minutes, then squeeze it until it is damp but not dripping. Sopping moss rots Jewel Orchid stems within a week.
4
Lay the cutting horizontally on moss
Place the cutting on its side in a shallow tray filled with damp sphagnum, pressing the bare nodes lightly into the moss. Cover the bare nodes with a thin layer of moss but leave the leaves exposed.
Horizontal placement gives multiple nodes contact with moisture at once, often producing roots and a new shoot from each.
Horizontal placement gives multiple nodes contact with moisture at once, often producing roots and a new shoot from each.
5
Tent and keep warm
Cover the tray with a clear plastic bag or dome to hold humidity above 70 percent. Keep the tray at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit out of direct sun. A bright shaded shelf works well.
6
Pot up at 4 to 5 weeks
Roots and new shoots emerge from the buried nodes by week 4. Once roots are an inch long, lift the cutting carefully and pot into a small pot of orchid bark mixed with sphagnum. Keep humidity high for two more weeks while it adjusts.
WATCH FOR
Stem turning translucent and mushy where it touches the moss. That is rot from moss that is too wet. Pull the cutting, trim past the rotted section with a sterile blade, and restart on moss that has been wrung out more thoroughly.
Water propagation
Time
4–6 weeks
Level
Beginner
Success rate
Moderate
You'll need
Clear glass jar or vase
Filtered water (or tap left to sit 24 hours)
Sterile shears or a sharp knife
Bright indirect light location
Small piece of plastic wrap (optional, to hold the stem)
1
Cut a 3 to 4 inch tip with at least 2 nodes
Take a healthy tip cutting with two or three nodes and at least one leaf still attached at the top. Cut cleanly below a node.
2
Strip leaves from the bottom node
Pinch off any leaves on the section that will sit underwater. Submerged leaves rot fast and foul the water.
3
Stand the cutting in clean water
Place the cutting in a small jar of filtered or sat-out tap water with the bottom node submerged. The leaf at the top should sit above the waterline.
If the cutting wants to flop, drape plastic wrap with a small hole over the jar opening to hold it upright.
If the cutting wants to flop, drape plastic wrap with a small hole over the jar opening to hold it upright.
4
Refresh the water every 5 days
Pour out old water and refill with fresh room-temperature filtered water at least every 5 days. Stagnant water is the most common reason water cuttings fail on this species.
5
Wait 4 to 6 weeks for roots
Roots emerge from the submerged node and reach an inch long around week 5. Do not move the cutting to medium until roots are at least 1 inch long.
Shorter roots dehydrate during the transition and the cutting starves.
Shorter roots dehydrate during the transition and the cutting starves.
6
Pot into orchid mix carefully
Once roots are 1 to 2 inches long, pot into a small pot of fine orchid bark mixed with sphagnum. Keep humidity at 70 percent or higher for two weeks by tenting a bag over the pot, since water roots are fragile and can shrivel in dry indoor air.
WATCH FOR
Submerged stem darkening and the surrounding water turning cloudy. That is bacterial rot. Pull the cutting, rinse thoroughly, trim half an inch above the damage with a sterile blade, and restart in clean water on a 3-day refresh schedule.
Division
Time
1–2 weeks to settle
Level
Intermediate
Success rate
High
You'll need
Sterile sharp knife or shears
Two pots with drainage holes
Fine orchid bark mixed with sphagnum
Small watering can
Bright indirect light location
1
Choose a plant with multiple stem clusters
Division only works if your Jewel Orchid has at least two distinct stem clusters with their own roots. A single-stem plant is not ready to divide.
2
Unpot and brush off old medium
Tip the plant out of its pot and gently shake or brush off the loose orchid bark to expose the rhizome and roots. Be patient. Ludisia roots are fleshy and snap if you pull too hard.
3
Identify natural separation points
Look for spots where the rhizome narrows between stem clusters. Each division should have at least 2 stems and a healthy section of root.
Uneven divisions where one half has most of the roots are common but not a problem as long as both pieces have some root.
Uneven divisions where one half has most of the roots are common but not a problem as long as both pieces have some root.
4
Cut cleanly with a sterile blade
Slice through the rhizome at the natural separation points with a sterilized knife or shears. Sterilize between cuts to prevent disease.
5
Pot each division separately
Pot each division into its own small pot of fine orchid bark mixed with sphagnum at the same depth it was growing. Firm the medium gently around the roots.
6
Water and shade for two weeks
Water lightly and place the divisions in slightly lower light than usual for the first two weeks. New growth from the existing crowns confirms the divisions have rooted into the new medium.
WATCH FOR
Wilted leaves and a soft rhizome a week after dividing. That means too much root was lost during separation. Trim away soft tissue, dust with cinnamon, and repot in barely moist medium with a humidity tent over the pot to reduce stress while new roots form.
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About This Article
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
Editorial Process
Propagation methods verified against Ludisia discolor growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.
2,252+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 10a–12b