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Haskap
Lonicera caerulea var. edulis 'Borealis'
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
QUICK ANSWER
Softwood cuttings taken in early summer root in 4 to 6 weeks under a humidity dome and have a high success rate. Hardwood cuttings taken in late winter root over 12 to 16 weeks and produce sturdier plants for fall planting.
Ground layering pins a low branch to the soil and produces a pre-rooted plant in 8 to 12 weeks with almost no effort.
Ground layering pins a low branch to the soil and produces a pre-rooted plant in 8 to 12 weeks with almost no effort.
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Softwood cuttings
Best in early summer for true-to-cultivar plants
Hardwood cuttings
Best in late winter for sturdy fall planting stock
Ground layering
Best for almost zero effort propagation
Softwood cuttings
Time
4–6 weeks
Level
Beginner
Success rate
High
You'll need
Sterile pruners
Rooting hormone (recommended)
Perlite and peat mix (50/50)
4-inch pots with drainage
Clear plastic dome or bag
Bright indirect light spot
1
Take cuttings in early summer
Choose this year's new growth that has just started to firm up but still bends easily. Cut 4 to 6 inch tip sections in the morning when the plant is fully hydrated. Take cuttings right after fruiting finishes since the plant focuses energy on rooting better at that time.
2
Strip and prep the cutting
Remove leaves from the bottom half and pinch off any flower or fruit remnants. Make a clean cut just below a leaf node with sterile pruners.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder and tap off the excess. Hormone speeds rooting from about 6 weeks down to 4.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder and tap off the excess. Hormone speeds rooting from about 6 weeks down to 4.
3
Stick into a moist mix
Fill 4-inch pots with a 50/50 perlite and peat mix and pre-moisten until water drips from the bottom. Push each cutting in 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the mix around the stem so the cutting stands upright on its own.
4
Cover with a humidity dome
Place pots in bright indirect light at 65 to 75 degrees F under a clear dome. Vent the dome for 10 minutes daily to prevent mold. Haskap is a cool-climate plant and dislikes hot conditions, so keep cuttings out of direct sun and warm rooms.
5
Check for roots at 4 weeks
Give a gentle tug at 4 weeks. Resistance means roots have anchored. New tip growth is another rooted signal. If the cutting pulls free, push it back in and check again in 2 weeks.
6
Pot up and grow on
Take the dome off gradually over a week. Move into 1-gallon pots with general purpose mix and grow on in part shade outdoors. Plant out in fall while the soil is still warm enough for roots to establish before hard frost.
WATCH FOR
Yellow leaves dropping in the first 2 weeks. Some leaf drop is normal stress response, not failure. Leave cuttings in place as long as the stem stays firm and green. Pull only if the stem turns soft or brown at the base.
Hardwood cuttings
Time
12–16 weeks
Level
Intermediate
Success rate
Moderate
You'll need
Sterile pruners
Rooting hormone (recommended)
Sand and perlite mix
Deep nursery pots
Mulch for winter protection
Sheltered cold frame or outdoor spot
1
Take cuttings during dormancy
Cut 8 to 10 inch sections from last year's growth in late winter while the plant is fully dormant. Choose pencil-thick straight wood. The bark should be brown and firm with visible buds.
2
Mark top and bottom
Make the bottom cut just below a bud at a 45 degree angle and the top cut straight across, half an inch above the highest bud.
The angled cut clearly marks the bottom end since hardwood cuttings refuse to root if planted upside down.
The angled cut clearly marks the bottom end since hardwood cuttings refuse to root if planted upside down.
3
Apply rooting hormone
Dip the angled bottom in rooting hormone powder and tap off the excess. Haskap hardwood cuttings root much more reliably with hormone than without.
4
Stick into sand and perlite
Fill deep nursery pots with a 50/50 sand and perlite mix. Push cuttings in 4 to 6 inches deep so only the top 2 inches and the highest bud show above the surface. Space them 4 inches apart.
5
Mulch and protect from freeze
Cover the surface with 2 inches of mulch. Place pots in a sheltered cold frame or unheated greenhouse to prevent freeze-thaw cycles from heaving cuttings out. Cuttings sit dormant until spring warms the soil.
6
Pot up in late spring
New leaves emerge in late spring and roots follow over 12 to 16 weeks. Lift rooted cuttings carefully and pot up into 1-gallon containers with general purpose mix. Grow on through summer in part shade and plant out in fall.
WATCH FOR
Cuttings that leaf out but never root and collapse by midsummer. This false start happens when cuttings draw on stored energy without forming roots. Pull failed cuttings, check the bottoms for rot, and try a fresh batch with stronger hormone next season.
Ground layering
Time
8–12 weeks
Level
Beginner
Success rate
High
You'll need
Long flexible low branch
Sterile knife
Rooting hormone (optional)
Garden staple or U-shaped wire
Compost or aged mulch
Sterile pruners for severing
1
Find a flexible low branch
Look for a healthy branch on the lower part of the bush that bends easily down to the soil. Haskap shrubs naturally produce many low arching branches that work well for this method. The branch should reach the ground 6 to 12 inches away from the parent.
2
Wound the underside
Where the branch will touch the soil, scrape away a 1-inch strip of bark on the underside with a sterile knife.
Dust the wound lightly with rooting hormone if you have it. Hormone is optional here since Haskap roots easily by layering even without it.
Dust the wound lightly with rooting hormone if you have it. Hormone is optional here since Haskap roots easily by layering even without it.
3
Pin the branch to the soil
Bend the branch down so the wounded section sits on loose soil. Hold it in place with a garden staple or U-shaped wire. The tip of the branch should curl upward beyond the buried section to keep the growing point above ground.
4
Cover with compost
Heap 2 to 3 inches of compost or aged mulch over the wounded section. Leave the branch tip and the rest of the original branch exposed. Water the buried area to settle the soil.
5
Keep moist for 8 to 12 weeks
Water the layering spot weekly so it stays evenly moist. Roots form at the wound over 8 to 12 weeks during the growing season. New leafy shoots emerging from the buried section signal that rooting is well underway.
6
Sever and transplant in fall
Once you see vigorous new growth, dig carefully under the rooted section to expose the new root mass. Cut the connection to the parent with sterile pruners. Lift the new plant and transplant in fall to its permanent spot, keeping it watered for a few weeks while it settles in.
WATCH FOR
The buried section drying out and the wound healing without rooting. This means the soil dried before roots formed. Keep the layering spot consistently moist with weekly deep watering and re-mulch after heavy rain washes the cover thin.
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About This Article
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
Editorial Process
Propagation methods verified against Lonicera caerulea var. edulis 'Borealis' growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.
USDA hardiness zones 2a–7b