Blackeyed Susan

What's Eating Your Black-eyed Susan?

Rudbeckia hirta
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For Black-eyed Susan, the most likely culprits are Japanese beetles (skeletonizing leaves and chewing the golden-yellow ray florets in midsummer) and aphids (clustering thickly on flower stalks below the cone). Spider mites flare up in hot dry late-summer weeks, leaving pale speckled lower leaves. Slugs chew ragged holes in the basal rosette and young shoots overnight in spring.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Metallic green and copper Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) on a lantana flower

Japanese beetles

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Half-inch metallic green beetles with copper-bronze wing covers and small white tufts along each side. Cluster in groups on the golden ray florets and on the upper leaves of the flower stalks. Most active on warm sunny mornings from late June through August.

What the damage looks like

Leaves skeletonized to a lace pattern with only the veins left intact. Ragged half-eaten ray florets around the dark central cone, sometimes whole flower heads chewed back to the disc. Damage stacks fast because beetles feed in groups and ruin the bloom display in days.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hand-pick into soapy water at dawn

1

Walk the planting at sunrise when beetles are slow and still clumped on flower heads.

2

Hold a wide jar of soapy water under each cluster and tap or flick the beetles in. They drop straight down and can't fly out.

3

Repeat every morning for 2 to 3 weeks through peak emergence. Daily picking through the worst stretch keeps the population from building.

Option 2

Neem oil spray at dusk through peak emergence

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water. Spray the upper and lower leaf surfaces and the open ray florets at dusk so it dries on the plant overnight. Repeat every 5 to 7 days from late June through early August. Avoid spraying open flowers in midday because that's when bees and other native pollinators are working the cones.

Option 3

Skip pheromone bag traps

Yellow-and-green pheromone traps (Spectracide Bag-A-Bug, ~$10) draw beetles from a wide radius and only catch a fraction. The rest land on whatever's blooming nearby, which means more beetles on your Black-eyed Susans, not fewer. If you want a trap, place it across the yard from the planting, not next to it.

Common myth

Bag traps protect your flowers.

Pheromone traps pull in beetles from neighboring yards and only catch a small share. The rest land on the closest bloom, which is your Black-eyed Susan. Skip the trap and hand-pick instead, or place any trap as far as possible from the planting.

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny pear-shaped insects 1 to 3 mm long, in shades of green, yellow, or black. Cluster in dense colonies along the upper flower stalks just below the cone and on the soft underside of the lance-shaped basal leaves. Most visible in early summer before the first wave of bloom opens.

What the damage looks like

Sticky shiny film on flower stalks and the leaves below, often with black sooty mold over time. Flower stalks bend or twist, buds open misshapen, and ray florets emerge stunted. Heavy clusters on a stalk drain enough sap to drop the bud before it opens.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from each affected flower stalk and spray at high pressure. Most aphids dislodge and don't make it back to the plant. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks. The fastest, cheapest fix and works without harming bees working the open cones.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on stalks and leaf undersides

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Insect Killing Soap, ~$10) on flower stalks and the underside of the basal rosette leaves at dusk. Avoid spraying open flowers so soap doesn't reach pollinators. Repeat every 5 days for 2 weeks until the colonies clear.

Option 3

Build pollinator habitat that hosts ladybugs

Plant alyssum, dill, fennel, or yarrow within 3 feet of the Black-eyed Susan patch. These attract ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on aphids. Black-eyed Susan is already a pollinator magnet, and a mixed native bed keeps aphid pressure low without sprays.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red specks running along the underside of the lower hairy leaves. Hot dry weeks in July and August trigger population booms, especially when the plant is drought-stressed and the basal rosette can't recover quickly.

What the damage looks like

Tiny pale yellow dots stipple the upper leaf surface, then bronze patches spread through the lower leaves first. Fine webbing strung between the leaf and stem in heavy infestations. Lower leaves dry, brown, and drop from the bottom up while the top of the plant still flowers.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the foliage weekly for 3 weeks

Spray cool water on the underside of every basal leaf and the lower stalks for 30 seconds with the hose. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off and the rinse humidity slows survivors. Black-eyed Susan tolerates a hard rinse well. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks through the dry stretch.

Option 2

Water deeply at the base, not from overhead

Drought stress is what tips a mild mite population into a population boom on Black-eyed Susan. Soak the base of the plant once a week with a slow drink (about an inch of water) instead of light daily sprinkles. A deep, even root zone keeps the basal rosette healthy enough to outgrow mite damage.

Option 3

Insecticidal soap on leaf undersides, every 5 days

1

Mix ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer or Garden Safe, ~$10) per the bottle.

2

Spray the underside of every lower leaf at dusk, paying attention to the leaf-stem joints where mites cluster.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult cycle without harming bees working the open flower cones during the day.

Large red-brown slug (Arion rufus) crawling on a rhubarb leaf

Slugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft brown or gray bodies, half an inch to two inches long, with two pairs of tentacles on the head. Hide under mulch and leaf litter by day. Active at night and on damp mornings through cool wet spring weeks when the basal rosette is still low to the ground.

What the damage looks like

Ragged irregular holes in the hairy lance-shaped basal leaves, often with smooth chewed edges rather than torn. Silvery dried slime trails on leaves, mulch, and surrounding soil confirm the culprit. Worst on young plants and the spring flush before the flower stalks rise above slug reach.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Iron phosphate bait scattered around the rosette

Scatter iron phosphate slug bait (Sluggo or Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait, ~$12) lightly around the base of each plant after rain or evening watering. Iron phosphate is safe for pets, kids, and the pollinators that visit Black-eyed Susan. Reapply every 2 weeks through the cool wet spring stretch.

Option 2

Pull mulch back 2 inches from the rosette

Slugs hide under thick mulch and leaf litter during the day. Pull mulch 2 inches away from the basal rosette so the soil at the plant's crown stays open and dries between rain. The same gap also helps prevent crown rot in wet springs.

Option 3

Beer trap among new plants

1

Sink a shallow tuna can or yogurt cup into the soil next to the rosette so the rim sits flush with the ground.

2

Fill with cheap beer (any brand works). Slugs are drawn in, fall, and drown overnight.

3

Empty and refill every 2 to 3 days through the wet spring stretch.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep Black-eyed Susan looking sharp through a long bloom season.
1

Walk the patch every morning in beetle season

Japanese beetles cluster on the golden ray florets at dawn and ruin the bloom display fast. A 2-minute morning walk with a jar of soapy water from late June through early August catches them before they call in more beetles.

2

Water deeply at the base, once a week

Drought stress is what tips spider mites from background pressure into a population boom in late summer. A weekly deep soak keeps the basal rosette healthy enough to outgrow mite damage and supports the long bloom window into fall.

3

Pull mulch back 2 inches from each crown

Black-eyed Susan crowns sit at the soil surface and rot if mulch holds moisture against them. The same gap dries the soil enough to discourage slugs from hiding right next to the rosette in wet springs.

4

Plant a pollinator-friendly mix nearby

Black-eyed Susan is a native pollinator magnet and a butterfly favorite. Pairing it with alyssum, yarrow, or dill within 3 feet brings in ladybugs and lacewings that suppress aphids without the broad-spectrum sprays that would also harm the bees working the cones.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Rudbeckia hirta field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.