Petunia

What's Eating Your Petunia?

Petunia atkinsiana
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For petunias, the most likely culprit is tobacco budworm caterpillars chewing holes through buds and shredding open blooms overnight. Aphids cluster on tender new growth and bud stalks. Spider mites explode in hot dry weather, especially in containers and hanging baskets. Thrips scar petals and can carry tomato spotted wilt virus. Slugs chew young plants and lower leaves at night.

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What does the damage look like?

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Pests, ranked by impact

Macro photo of a caterpillar resting on a green leaf

Tobacco budworm

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

A 1 to 1.5 inch caterpillar in green, pink, brown, or near-black, with thin pale stripes running along the body. Hides deep inside flower buds and old spent blooms during the day. Active at night. The signature petunia pest by a wide margin.

What the damage looks like

Petunias bloom fresh in the morning then look shredded by evening. Round holes chewed through unopened buds. Petals come out ragged or full of holes when the flower opens. Tiny dark green or black pellet droppings on lower leaves and on the soil are a giveaway.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hand-pick at dusk and pinch off infested buds

1

Walk the bed or container an hour after sunset with a flashlight. Look inside fresh buds and inside spent blooms still hanging on the plant.

2

Pinch off any bud or old bloom with a hole. The caterpillar is usually inside. Drop the whole thing in a jar of soapy water.

3

Repeat every 2 to 3 nights through July, August, and September. The moths lay new eggs all summer.

Option 2

Spinosad spray on buds and new growth, weekly for 4 weeks

Spray spinosad (Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew or Monterey Garden Insect Spray, ~$12 to $15) over the whole plant at dusk, getting the spray down into open buds. Spinosad reaches caterpillars feeding on bud tissue and breaks down in sunlight, so dusk timing matters. Repeat every 7 days for 4 weeks. Bt does not work well on tobacco budworm because they tunnel inside buds before eating much surface tissue.

Option 3

Deadhead spent blooms every 2 to 3 days

Pinch off every faded bloom into a bag, not onto the soil. Tobacco budworm caterpillars often hide inside old blooms during the day and come out at night to chew fresh buds. Removing spent blooms removes their daytime shelter and pushes more new flowers at the same time. Bag and trash, do not compost.

Slender adult thrips (Frankliniella sp.) on a flower petal

Thrips

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Slender insects under 2 mm long, pale yellow to brown to nearly black. Slip into unopened buds and hide deep in the trumpet of open blooms. Run when disturbed. Easiest to find by tapping a bloom or leaf onto a sheet of white paper and watching for moving specks.

What the damage looks like

Petals open with silvery streaks, brown scarring, or distorted edges. Buds may fail to open or open misshapen. Worst risk is tomato spotted wilt virus, which thrips carry. Virus signs are bronze ringspots on leaves, stunted plants, and streaky petal color. Infected plants must be pulled.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Inspect every petunia start before you plant

Most thrips ride home on nursery starts. Before buying, turn each cell over and check the underside of leaves and inside any open bud for moving specks. Skip any tray with streaked or scarred blooms. This single habit prevents most petunia thrips problems for the season.

Option 2

Spinosad spray on buds and new growth, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Spray spinosad (Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew, ~$12) at dusk, soaking unopened buds and the underside of new leaves where thrips hide.

2

Spinosad is one of the few products that reaches thrips inside the bud cavity.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds to cover the egg-to-adult cycle. Avoid mid-day spraying because spinosad can harm bees on open blooms.

Option 3

Pull any plant with TSWV symptoms immediately

Bronze ringspots on leaves, sudden stunting, or uneven streaky petal color point to tomato spotted wilt virus. The virus is incurable and thrips spread it from one infected plant to the rest of the bed. Pull the whole plant, bag it, and trash it. Wash hands and tools before touching healthy petunias.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red specks running along the underside of leaves. Hot dry container petunias and hanging baskets in mid-summer are textbook spider mite habitat. Petunias' slightly sticky leaf surface still does not deter them once heat stress sets in.

What the damage looks like

A peppery scatter of tiny pale dots across the upper leaf surface, then whole leaves go dry, gray-green, and crisp. Fine webbing strung between stems and leaf bases in heavy infestations. Bloom production drops fast as the plant stresses. Hanging baskets get hit first.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hose-blast the underside of every leaf, every 3 days for 2 weeks

Take the basket down or aim a hose nozzle up from below at high pressure. Spray the underside of every leaf for 30 to 60 seconds per plant. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off. Petunia leaves and stems are slightly sticky from glandular hairs but tolerate a hard rinse fine. Repeat every 3 days for 2 weeks.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on leaf undersides, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Use ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer or Bonide, ~$10 to $12).

2

Spray the underside of every leaf and along stem joints at dusk to avoid sun damage on hot days.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds to cover the egg-to-adult cycle. Skip neem oil at over 85F because petunia leaves can scorch in heat with oil sprays.

Option 3

Water containers more deeply and shade-shield in heatwaves

Spider mites take off when petunias get heat-stressed and dry. In a hot week, water containers and hanging baskets thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, every 1 to 2 days. Move baskets to afternoon shade during heatwaves over 90F. A less-stressed petunia is a much harder target.

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny pear-shaped insects 1 to 3 mm long, in green, pink, or black. Cluster densely on the soft tips of new shoots and along bud stalks where the trumpet flower attaches. Petunias' sticky leaf hairs sometimes trap a few aphids in place but do not stop a colony.

What the damage looks like

New growth tips curl and twist as aphids drain sap. Bud stalks bend or fail to open into full blooms. A sticky shiny film coats leaves and below the affected stem. Black sooty mold grows on the residue. Heavy spring infestations on young petunias slow bloom-out for the season.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from affected new growth and spray at high pressure. Aim under buds and along stem tips. Most aphids dislodge and don't return. Petunias bounce back fast from a hose blast. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks. Cheapest, fastest, no chemicals needed.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap at dusk, every 5 days for 2 rounds

1

Use ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer or Bonide, ~$10).

2

Spray new growth tips, bud stalks, and the underside of upper leaves at dusk.

3

Repeat once 5 days later. Two rounds clear most aphid pressure. Skip if temperatures are over 85F to avoid leaf burn.

Option 3

Plant alyssum or sweet alyssum in the same bed or container

Tuck sweet alyssum into the same beds, hanging baskets, or container edges as your petunias. Alyssum attracts hoverflies and parasitic wasps that hunt aphids. The two plants share light and water needs and the alyssum spills nicely over container rims. Established companion plantings keep aphid pressure low all season without sprays.

Large red-brown slug (Arion rufus) crawling on a rhubarb leaf

Slugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft brown to gray mollusks, half an inch to two inches long. Hide under mulch, board edges, container rims, and damp leaf debris during the day. Active at night and at dawn after dew or rain. A bigger problem in damp ground beds than in well-drained containers and hanging baskets.

What the damage looks like

Ragged irregular holes chewed in lower leaves and along stem bases of young petunias. Whole seedlings can be eaten back to nubs overnight. Silvery dried slime trails on leaves, on the soil, or running up the side of a pot in the morning is the giveaway versus caterpillar damage.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Iron phosphate slug bait around the base of each plant

Scatter iron phosphate bait (Sluggo or Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait, ~$12) in a thin ring around each petunia at planting time and after every rain. Iron phosphate is safe around pets, kids, and pollinators. Reapply every 2 weeks through wet weather. Skip metaldehyde baits, which are toxic to dogs and cats.

Option 2

Hand-pick at night with a flashlight, twice a week

After dark, walk the bed with a flashlight. Slugs come out to feed on petunia leaves and seedlings. Pick by hand (gloves help) and drop into a jar of soapy water. Two nights a week through wet weather thins the population fast.

Option 3

Switch ground beds to morning watering

Slugs feed at night in damp soil. Watering petunia ground beds in the morning instead of evening lets the surface dry by dusk. Drier night soil is a far less inviting hunting ground. This single switch cuts slug pressure noticeably without bait.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that defuse most petunia pest pressure before it shreds the bloom.
1

Deadhead spent blooms every 2 to 3 days

Tobacco budworm caterpillars and thrips both hide inside old faded blooms during the day. Pinching off spent flowers into a bag (not onto the soil) removes their shelter and pushes the plant to put out fresh buds. The single highest-leverage habit for petunias.

2

Inspect nursery starts before you bring them home

Thrips and aphids ride home on petunia six-packs. Tip each cell over at the garden center and check the underside of leaves and inside any open bud for moving specks. Skip any tray with streaked or scarred petals. Stops most pest problems before they start.

3

Water hanging baskets and containers deeply through summer heat

Heat-stressed dry petunias are textbook spider mite bait. In hot weeks, water until the basket drains, every 1 to 2 days. A well-watered petunia resists mites, holds bloom better, and recovers faster from any feeding damage.

4

Walk the bed at dusk during budworm season

From mid-July through September, take a 5-minute lap an hour after sunset with a flashlight. Tobacco budworm caterpillars come out at night to feed on buds. A weekly hand-pick keeps the population from ever hitting the level where blooms get shredded.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Petunia atkinsiana field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.