What's Eating Your Peppermint?

Mentha x piperita
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For peppermint, the most likely culprits are spider mites (pale stippling on the underside of leaves, especially indoors) and aphids (clusters of soft green or black insects on new growth). Mint flea beetles pepper the leaves with pinhole damage, slugs shred lower foliage on outdoor patches, and mealybugs hide in the square stems of indoor pots.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Spider mites

Damage
Critical
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Specks barely larger than a pinhead, in tan, red, or pale yellow, clustered on the underside of peppermint's opposite leaves. Fine webbing collects between the leaf pairs along the square stem. Tap a stem over white paper and the mites scatter as moving dots.

What the damage looks like

Leaves fade to a dull silvery-yellow then turn brown and drop from the bottom of the plant upward. Indoor peppermint near heat vents can lose half its foliage in 2 to 3 weeks. The oil glands on the leaves release a weak menthol smell where mites have been feeding because the cells are damaged.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Rinse, then horticultural oil weekly for 3 weeks

1

Take the plant to the sink or shower and blast both sides of the foliage with cool water for 60 seconds.

2

Once dry, spray Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil (about ten dollars) on every surface, including the underside of every leaf along the square stems.

3

Repeat the oil spray every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks. Rinse the leaves the day before harvest if you plan to use the sprigs in tea or cooking.

Option 2

Boost humidity and isolate from heat sources

Move the pot away from heat vents and sunny windows where air dries out. Group with other plants on a tray of pebbles and water, or run a small humidifier within a few feet. Spider mites stall above 60 percent humidity and peppermint actually prefers the moister air.

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft pear-shaped insects 2 to 3 mm long, in green, black, or grey, packed on the soft new shoot tips and along the underside of the topmost leaves. They concentrate where peppermint's growing points push new sets of paired leaves above the oldest growth.

What the damage looks like

New tips curl and twist, often with a sticky honeydew coating that draws sooty black mold. Heavy infestations stunt the season's runners and dilute the menthol oil content of the leaves, leaving harvested sprigs flat-tasting and weak.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Water blast at the new tips every 3 days

Aim a strong jet of water at the underside of new growth and the topmost leaves. Most colonies dislodge in one pass and rarely climb back up the smooth square stems. Repeat every 3 days until you stop seeing fresh clusters, usually within 2 weeks. The harvested sprigs are usable immediately.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on the underside of new growth

For stubborn colonies, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Insect Killing Soap, about nine dollars) directly on the underside of new tips at dusk. Reapply every 5 days for two weeks. Rinse the leaves the day before harvest to clear soap residue from anything you plan to use in tea or cooking.

Mint flea beetles

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Tiny shiny black or bronze beetles, 2 to 3 mm long, that hop away like fleas when you approach. The mint flea beetle is a specialist on mint family plants and shows up in established mint patches in late spring and summer. Larvae feed underground on the roots.

What the damage looks like

Leaves develop a peppered shotgun pattern of tiny round holes, sometimes hundreds per leaf, that gives the patch a lacy or scorched look. Heavy beetle pressure can yellow whole runners, and the underground larvae weaken the rhizome system that lets mint spread.

How to get rid of them

Cut the patch back hard, then row cover the regrowth

1

Shear the entire patch to 2 inches above the soil with scissors or a string trimmer. Bag the cuttings for the trash, not the compost.

2

Cover the bare patch with a lightweight floating row cover (Agribon AG-19, about fifteen dollars) and seal the edges with soil.

3

Leave the row cover on for the first 3 weeks of regrowth. By the time it comes off, the new foliage is established and tolerates the beetles that return.

Slugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft-bodied brown or grey mollusks, 1 to 4 inches long, active overnight and on cool damp mornings. They hide under leaf litter, the dense ground-level layer of mint runners, and beneath mulch by day. Silvery dried slime trails on the lower leaves are the giveaway at dawn.

What the damage looks like

Large ragged holes appear in the soft lower leaves overnight, often eaten from the leaf edge inward. Heavy slug pressure on a wet spring shreds the bottom third of a mint patch and creates entry points for fungal disease on the damaged tissue. Outdoor mint planted in shade is most vulnerable.

How to get rid of them

Iron phosphate slug bait around the bed edge

Scatter Sluggo iron phosphate bait (about twelve dollars per pound) on the soil within a 2-foot border of the patch. The bait is safe for pets, birds, and beneficial insects. Reapply after heavy rain. One application usually clears a bed for 4 to 6 weeks. The mint sprigs above the soil remain edible.

Mealybugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Small soft insects covered in a white waxy fluff that looks like cotton or lint. They tuck deep into the leaf-node joints of peppermint's square stems and along the runners just below the soil. Slow-moving and easy to miss until colonies coat the lower stem.

What the damage looks like

Stems weaken and snap easily, and the leaves above the colony yellow and curl. Sticky honeydew coats the lower foliage and draws sooty mold. Indoor potted peppermint is the most vulnerable, especially plants overwintered in heated rooms with stagnant air.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Cotton-swab alcohol at every node, weekly for 3 weeks

1

Dip a cotton swab in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol and dab every visible tuft, paying close attention to the square-stem leaf joints.

2

Use a fresh swab for each cluster so you don't transfer eggs to clean nodes.

3

Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers. Rinse harvested sprigs before use during the treatment window.

Option 2

Take cuttings and start over

Heavily infested potted peppermint is often faster to replace than to save. Snip 4 to 5 inch tips from clean upper growth, strip the lower leaves, and root them in fresh water. New plants are ready in 7 to 10 days, and you start mealybug-free. Toss the parent if it has cottony tufts on every node.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that head off most peppermint pest pressure before it starts.
1

Underleaf check, every Sunday

Spider mites and aphids always start on the underside of mint's opposite leaves along the topmost leaf pairs. A 30-second flip-and-scan once a week catches stippling and clusters while a single rinse can clear them, and harvested sprigs stay clean.

2

Shear the patch back every 6 weeks

Cutting peppermint back to 2 inches every 6 weeks does double duty: it removes any beginning pest colonies along with the older foliage, and it pushes a fresh flush of vigorous tender growth that tastes better in tea. Bag the trimmings rather than composting.

3

Bright airy spot, indoor or out

Mint's biggest indoor pest pressure comes from stagnant heated air. Keep the pot in a bright window with some breeze, run a small fan nearby in winter, and move outdoor patches into spots with airflow rather than shaded corners. Moving air alone suppresses mites and aphids.

4

Quarantine new herbs for 2 weeks

Most indoor mint infestations arrive on a new nursery pot. Set new herbs in a separate room for 2 weeks and inspect every node and leaf underside before adding them to the rest of your collection. This catches mealybugs before they spread to other indoor herbs.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Mentha x piperita field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.
63+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 3a–11b