Peace Lily

What's Eating Your Peace Lily?

Spathiphyllum wallisii
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For peace lily, the most likely culprits are mealybugs (cottony tufts in leaf joints) and fungus gnats, which appear when soil stays too wet. Both signal trouble fast. Spider mites and scale show up in drier rooms. Thrips are less common but harder to clear when they reach the white spathes.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Cluster of long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus) showing the white cottony wax on a leaf

Mealybugs

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Soft white insects covered in cottony fluff, 2 to 4 mm long. Cluster in the leaf-petiole joints, in the central crown where new leaves emerge, and along the underside of broad leaves. Slow-moving and often missed because the crown hides them.

What the damage looks like

White cottony tufts visible in leaf joints and along the central crown. A sticky shiny film on leaves below the cluster. New leaves emerge stunted or yellowed. Severe infestations stop the plant from putting out white spathes entirely.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol

Dab every visible mealybug. The alcohol melts the waxy coating and kills on contact. Pull leaves apart gently to reach colonies in the central crown and at leaf-petiole joints. Repeat every 3 days for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched eggs.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap + neem oil rotation, 4 weeks

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap on the underside of leaves and into the crown at lights-out. Alternate weekly with neem oil. Continue 4 weeks because eggs hatch in protected crown pockets over time and need ongoing pressure.

Option 3

Isolate the plant from your collection

Move the peace lily at least 6 feet from other houseplants. Mealybugs spread by crawling. Wipe nearby pots, the windowsill, and any tools that touched the infested plant.

Common myth

Stronger alcohol kills mealybugs faster.

95%+ alcohol evaporates faster than it can kill the bug, and on peace lily's smooth leaves the higher concentrations leave dry brown patches that don't grow back. Stick with 70%.

Adult dark-winged fungus gnat (Sciaridae) close-up

Fungus gnats

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny dark flies, 1 to 3 mm long, hovering near the soil and flying up when you water. Larvae are barely-visible white worms in the top inch of damp soil.

What the damage looks like

Adults are mostly a nuisance, but their presence is a warning. Fungus gnats only thrive in damp soil, the same conditions that cause peace lily root rot. Root rot kills more peace lilies than any pest.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Bottom-water and let the top inch dry

Set the pot in a tray of water for 20 minutes, then drain. The top inch stays dry, killing larvae and stopping adults from laying eggs. Peace lily droops dramatically when thirsty, so use the droop as your watering signal.

Option 2

Yellow sticky traps near the soil

Stick yellow cards (Trappify, ~$10) just above the soil surface. Adults stick to them on takeoff and landing. Catches the breeding population while bottom-watering kills the larvae.

Option 3

Mosquito Bits sprinkled on soil

Mosquito Bits (Bt-i, ~$15) is a bacteria-based larvicide that kills fungus gnat larvae specifically. Sprinkle a tablespoon on the soil and water in lightly during the next bottom-water. Safe for peace lily, pets, and beneficial soil microbes.

Common myth

Drench the soil with hydrogen peroxide.

It kills larvae but also kills the beneficial fungi and bacteria peace lily roots need. Worse, drenching contradicts the real fix: letting the top inch dry between waterings.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red-orange specks running along the underside of leaves, especially near the central vein. Indoor heated air through winter dries peace lily leaves and triggers a population boom.

What the damage looks like

Pale tiny pale dots along the central vein where colonies start. Fine webbing strung along the leaf-petiole junction. Heavy infestations bronze leaves and cause flower buds to abort before the spathe opens.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the leaves weekly for 3 weeks

Move the peace lily to the shower or sink. Spray cool water on the underside of every leaf for 30 seconds. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off, and the rinse humidity slows survivors. Peace lily loves the bath. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks.

Option 2

Neem oil at lights-out, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray top and bottom of every leaf at lights-out, paying special attention to the leaf-petiole junction where mites cluster.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult cycle.

Option 3

Raise humidity above 50%

Run a humidifier near the plant for 50 to 60% relative humidity. Peace lily is a Central American rainforest plant and wants the moisture anyway. Hot dry indoor heating is the climate mites need to breed fast.

Common myth

Pyrethrin sprays from the hardware store kill them.

Spider mites are arachnids, not insects, so most household bug sprays barely affect them. Use neem oil or a true miticide instead. Peace lily's smooth leaves tolerate spinosad too if neem isn't enough.

Slender adult thrips (Frankliniella sp.) on a flower petal

Thrips

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Slender dark insects 1 to 2 mm long. Walk along leaves rather than fly. Hide in the folds of the white spathe flowers and where leaves meet the petiole. Easiest to spot by tapping a flower over a sheet of white paper.

What the damage looks like

Silver or bronze streaks on upper leaf surfaces with tiny black dots (thrips droppings) alongside. New leaves emerge distorted or scarred. Spathes turn brown or develop dark blotches and never open fully. Heavy infestations vector serious viruses.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Blue sticky traps at canopy height

Hang blue sticky cards (Stikem or Trappify, ~$10 per pack) just above the leafy canopy. Thrips are attracted to blue and stick on contact. Replace every 2 weeks. Won't eliminate alone but reduces the population.

Option 2

Spinosad spray, weekly for 3 weeks

Spinosad (Captain Jack's or Monterey Garden Insect Spray, ~$12 to $15) is the most effective home treatment. Spray every leaf surface and into the spathes at lights-out. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to break the life cycle.

Option 3

Release predatory mites (Amblyseius cucumeris)

Order from Arbico Organics or similar (~$20). Sprinkle on the plant. They eat thrips eggs and nymphs. Best for established infestations resistant to spray alone.

Brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) clustered on a plant stem

Scale insects

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Hard or soft brown bumps stuck to leaf petioles and the underside of broad leaves, 1 to 3 mm wide. Look like tiny barnacles. Don't move because they're glued in place.

What the damage looks like

Yellowed patches around each cluster. A sticky shiny film on leaves and the pot rim, sometimes with sooty black mold. Heavy infestations cause leaf drop over months and stop the plant from flowering.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Scrape with a fingernail or soft toothbrush

Scale insects are stuck under a waxy seal. Scrape every visible bump off. Each one removed is one less egg-layer. Peace lily's smooth leaves take a fingernail well.

Option 2

Cotton swab + 70% alcohol, weekly for 3 weeks

After scraping, dab any remaining bumps with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol penetrates the waxy seal and kills the insect. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers.

Option 3

Horticultural oil spray, weekly for 3 weeks

Spray horticultural oil (Bonide All Seasons, ~$15) on every leaf and petiole. Smothers crawlers and adults. Apply at lights-out, every 7 days for 3 weeks.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep peace lily pests rare and easy to catch.
1

Joint and underleaf check, every Sunday

Mealybugs and scale hide where the petiole meets the stem and in the central crown. A weekly 30-second scan catches colonies while they're still small.

2

Quarantine new houseplants for 2 weeks

Mealybugs and thrips travel home from the nursery on the plant you bought. Two weeks of isolation catches anything before it spreads to your collection.

3

Wipe leaves with a damp cloth monthly

Peace lily leaves are smooth and broad and clean up beautifully. The wipe catches dust, early spider mites, and scale crawlers before they multiply.

4

Water when the leaves first start to droop

Peace lily wilts dramatically when thirsty and recovers within hours of watering. Use the droop as your trigger and the soil stays drier between waterings, which prevents both fungus gnats and root rot.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Spathiphyllum wallisii field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.