Japanese Honeysuckle

What's Eating Your Japanese Honeysuckle?

Lonicera japonica
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For Japanese honeysuckle, the most likely culprits are witches'-broom aphids (clustered terminal growth twisted into a tight broom shape) and regular aphid colonies smothering bud stalks and new shoots. Scale insects stick along the woody twining stems and leaf undersides. Spider mites appear in drought stress, and leafminers leave squiggly white trails on the oval paired leaves.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Two patterns on honeysuckle. The honeysuckle witches'-broom aphid is a tiny pale gray-green insect that lives on the soft tip growth and triggers a tight cluster of stunted leaves. Regular aphid colonies are 1 to 3 mm pear-shaped insects in green, yellow, or black, packed along bud stalks and the underside of paired oval leaves.

What the damage looks like

The witches'-broom aphid produces the iconic distorted terminal growth. New shoots fold into a tight rosette of stunted leaves that never opens normally and ruins the flowering display at the vine tips. Regular aphids leave curled new growth, sticky shiny film on lower leaves, and reduced fragrant bloom.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Prune out witches'-broomed shoot tips and bag them

1

Cut every distorted broom-cluster back to the nearest healthy pair of leaves on the woody twining stem.

2

Bag the prunings in a sealed plastic bag and put them in the trash. Do not compost because aphids and eggs survive on cuttings.

3

Repeat at every fresh flush through the season. Honeysuckle's vigorous regrowth replaces the lost tips within a few weeks.

Option 2

Hard water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from the affected new growth and spray at high pressure along the bud stalks and leaf undersides. Most aphids dislodge and don't make it back to the vine. The fastest, cheapest fix for the regular aphid colonies on bud stalks and works without chemicals. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks.

Option 3

Insecticidal soap on tip growth, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Use ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Brand or Bonide, ~$10 to $15).

2

Spray the underside of every leaf and along soft tip growth and bud stalks at dusk. Soap only kills on contact, so coverage matters more than concentration.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the egg-to-adult cycle.

Brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) clustered on a plant stem

Scale insects

Damage
Medium
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Hard or soft brown bumps stuck to the woody twining stems and along the underside of paired oval leaves, 1 to 4 mm wide. Look like tiny barnacles. Don't move because they're glued in place. Often hide in the cracks of older bark and at the leaf-stem joint where leaves attach to the vine.

What the damage looks like

A sticky shiny film on leaves below the cluster, often with black sooty mold over weeks. Yellowed leaves around each cluster and slow stem dieback on the older woody parts. Heavy infestations weaken the vine and reduce the fragrant bloom display, but honeysuckle's vigorous regrowth helps it tolerate a season of pressure.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Scrub and oil weekly for 4 weeks

1

Wet the affected woody stems and leaf surfaces with horticultural oil (Bonide All Seasons, ~$15).

2

Scrub gently with a soft toothbrush along the twining stem to dislodge bumps and break the waxy seal.

3

Spray a final coat of oil and leave on. Repeat weekly for 4 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers.

Option 2

Prune out heavily infested woody sections

Honeysuckle bounces back from heavy pruning faster than almost any vine. Cut off any stem section coated in scale and bag the prunings. New shoots from the base or from healthy bud points fill the gap within one season. Do not compost.

Option 3

Dormant oil spray in late winter

Spray the entire vine with a heavier dormant oil mix (Bonide All Seasons at the dormant rate, ~$15) in late winter before new growth emerges. The oil smothers overwintering scale on the woody stems before they start the next generation. Hits the population at its weakest point of the year.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red specks running along the underside of the paired oval leaves. Show up in drought stress when the vine is planted in dry soil or against a hot wall. Late summer is peak mite season on stressed honeysuckle.

What the damage looks like

Tiny pale dots speckle the upper leaf surface, then bronze patches spread across whole leaves. Fine webbing strung between leaf undersides and along the leaf-stem joint in heavy infestations. Affected leaves drop early, and the vine looks dusty and tired through the late-summer bloom window.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hose the vine down weekly through hot dry stretches

Spray cool water on the underside of every leaf with a strong hose nozzle, working from the base up through the woody twining stem. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off, and the rinse humidity slows survivors. Honeysuckle tolerates a hard rinse well. Repeat weekly through any hot dry stretch.

Option 2

Deep water the root zone weekly

Drought is the trigger. Water the base of the vine deeply once a week through summer, soaking the soil to 8 to 10 inches deep. A 2-inch mulch ring keeps the root zone cool and damp. A well-watered honeysuckle rarely sees a serious mite outbreak.

Option 3

Neem oil at dusk, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray the underside of every leaf at dusk, paying attention to the leaf-stem joints where mites cluster on the paired oval leaves.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the egg-to-adult cycle.

Distinctive squiggly silvery serpentine mines from leafminer larvae on a leaf

Leafminers

Damage
Low
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

The larva of a tiny fly or moth, 2 to 4 mm long. The adults are rarely seen. Damage comes from the larva tunneling between the upper and lower surfaces of the paired oval leaves. A documented honeysuckle pest, especially in mid to late summer on shaded interior growth.

What the damage looks like

Distinctive squiggly white or silvery trails on the paired oval leaves. The trails widen as the larva grows and may end in a small blistered patch where pupation happened. Damage stays cosmetic. Honeysuckle's vigorous regrowth replaces affected leaves through the season and the vine shrugs off the loss.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Pick affected leaves as soon as you see trails

Pinch off and bag any leaf with a fresh trail. The larva is inside the leaf and continues feeding until it pupates. Removing the affected leaf removes the larva. Bag and dispose. Do not compost. The vine fills in the gap from new growth within a couple weeks.

Option 2

Tolerate light damage and let regrowth replace it

Honeysuckle puts out fresh growth so fast that a few mined leaves disappear into the canopy within a flush. Save the spray budget for pests that actually threaten the bloom or vine vigor. Squiggly trails on a thriving vine are cosmetic only.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep Japanese honeysuckle pests rare and easy to catch.
1

Tip and bud-stalk check, every Sunday

Witches'-broom aphids and regular aphid colonies show up on the soft tip growth and along bud stalks before bloom. A weekly 30-second scan of the new shoots catches a brooming cluster before it spreads through the vine.

2

Hard prune in late winter, every year

Cut the vine back hard before new growth breaks. The vigorous regrowth that follows is the vine's main defense. It clears out scale-infested woody stems and breaks the cycle on overwintering pests, and the new shoots flower freely the same season.

3

Mulch the root zone 2 inches deep

A 2-inch mulch ring around the base keeps the soil cool and damp through summer. Drought stress is the main trigger for spider mite outbreaks on honeysuckle. A well-mulched, well-watered vine rarely sees serious mite pressure.

4

Leave room for ladybugs and lacewings

Honeysuckle's fragrant tubular flowers and dense foliage shelter the predators that eat aphids. Skip broad-spectrum sprays. The resident lacewings, ladybugs, and parasitic wasps keep aphid pressure low through the season for free.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Lonicera japonica field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.