Golden Pothos

What's Eating Your Golden Pothos?

Epipremnum aureum
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For golden pothos, the most likely culprits are mealybugs, which cluster in the leaf-petiole junctions and along climbing stems where aerial roots emerge. Spider mites bronze the heart-shaped leaves in dry winter air. Scale shows up as oval brown bumps on stems. Fungus gnats are mostly a nuisance because pothos tolerates damp soil well.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Cluster of long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus) showing the white cottony wax on a leaf

Mealybugs

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Soft white insects covered in cottony fluff, 2 to 4 mm long. Cluster in the leaf-petiole junctions and along the climbing stem where aerial roots emerge. Slow-moving and easy to miss because the trailing vines hide colonies on the back side.

What the damage looks like

White cottony tufts visible at every leaf-petiole junction and along stem nodes. A sticky shiny film on the heart-shaped leaves below the cluster. New leaves emerge small and lose their gold variegation. Severe infestations slow new growth to a halt.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Cut the affected vine back to a clean node

Pothos rebounds vigorously from any node, so heavily infested vines can be cut hard. Snip below the lowest visible mealybug, drop the cuttings in the trash (not compost), and the plant re-sprouts from the remaining stem within weeks. Often the fastest fix when colonies are advanced.

Option 2

Cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol

Dab every visible mealybug. The alcohol melts the waxy coating and kills on contact. Lift each vine to reach colonies hiding at the leaf-petiole junctions and around aerial roots. Repeat every 3 days for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched eggs.

Option 3

Insecticidal soap + neem oil rotation, 4 weeks

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap on the underside of leaves and along every stem node at lights-out. Alternate weekly with neem oil. Continue 4 weeks because eggs hatch in protected stem-node pockets over time and need ongoing pressure.

Common myth

Stronger alcohol kills mealybugs faster.

95%+ alcohol evaporates faster than it can kill the bug. On pothos's smooth heart-shaped leaves the higher concentrations also leave dry brown spots that don't fade. Stick with 70%.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red-orange specks running along the underside of the heart-shaped leaves. Indoor heated air through winter dries pothos foliage and triggers a population boom.

What the damage looks like

Pale tiny pale dots on the upper leaf surface that quickly bronzes the variegated gold and green pattern. Fine webbing strung between leaves and along the leaf-petiole junctions. Pothos rebounds fast once the mites are gone, so even bronzed leaves can recover.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the leaves weekly for 3 weeks

Move the pothos to the shower or sink. Spray cool water on the underside of every heart-shaped leaf for 30 seconds. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off, and the rinse humidity slows survivors. Pothos handles the bath well. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks.

Option 2

Neem oil at lights-out, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray top and bottom of every leaf at lights-out, paying special attention to the leaf-petiole junctions where mites cluster.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult cycle.

Option 3

Raise humidity above 50%

Run a humidifier near the plant for 50 to 60% relative humidity. Pothos is a tropical vine and grows faster in the moisture anyway. Hot dry indoor heating is the climate mites need to breed fast.

Brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum) clustered on a plant stem

Scale insects

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Oval brown bumps stuck to the leaf-petiole junctions, along the climbing stems, and on the underside of heart-shaped leaves, 1 to 3 mm wide. Look like tiny barnacles. Don't move because they're glued in place.

What the damage looks like

Yellowed patches around each cluster on the variegated leaves. A sticky shiny film on the leaves and floor below the trailing vine, sometimes with sooty black mold. Heavy infestations cause leaves to drop along whole sections of vine over months.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Scrape and dab with alcohol, weekly for 3 weeks

1

Scrape every visible bump off with a fingernail or soft toothbrush. Pothos's smooth leaves and stems take a fingernail well.

2

Dab any remaining bumps with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol penetrates the waxy seal and kills the insect.

3

Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers.

Option 2

Cut back heavily infested vines

Pothos re-sprouts from any node, so a vine plastered with scale can be snipped at the base and tossed. The remaining plant pushes new growth within weeks. Faster than scraping when one vine is far worse than the rest.

Option 3

Horticultural oil spray, weekly for 3 weeks

Spray horticultural oil (Bonide All Seasons, ~$15) on every leaf and along every stem node. Smothers crawlers and adults. Apply at lights-out, every 7 days for 3 weeks.

Adult dark-winged fungus gnat (Sciaridae) close-up

Fungus gnats

Damage
Low
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny dark flies, 1 to 3 mm long, hovering near the soil and flying up when you water. Larvae are barely-visible white worms in the top inch of damp soil.

What the damage looks like

Mostly a nuisance on pothos. Unlike most houseplants, pothos tolerates consistently damp soil very well, so fungus gnats rarely signal a deeper care problem here. Adults are annoying but the plant shrugs off the larvae.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Yellow sticky traps near the soil

Stick yellow cards (Trappify, ~$10) just above the soil surface. Adults stick to them on takeoff and landing. Often enough on its own for pothos because the plant isn't stressed by the larvae.

Option 2

Let the top inch dry between waterings

Pothos prefers a brief dry-down anyway. Letting the top inch dry kills larvae and stops adults from laying eggs. Use a finger check, not a schedule.

Option 3

Mosquito Bits sprinkled on soil

Mosquito Bits (Bt-i, ~$15) is a bacteria-based larvicide that kills fungus gnat larvae specifically. Sprinkle a tablespoon on the soil and water in lightly. Safe for pothos, pets, and beneficial soil microbes.

Common myth

Drench the soil with hydrogen peroxide.

It kills larvae but also kills the beneficial fungi and bacteria pothos roots need. Pothos isn't bothered by the larvae anyway. Sticky traps and a brief dry-down do the job without harming the soil.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep golden pothos pests rare and easy to catch.
1

Joint and node check, every Sunday

Mealybugs and scale hide at the leaf-petiole junctions and around the aerial roots that emerge from stem nodes. Lift each trailing vine for a 30-second scan and you catch colonies while they're still small.

2

Quarantine new houseplants for 2 weeks

Mealybugs and scale travel home from the nursery on the plant you bought. Two weeks of isolation catches anything before it spreads to the rest of your collection.

3

Trim dead and yellowing leaves regularly

Pothos keeps growing whether you tidy or not, and old foliage hides pests. A monthly pass to snip yellowing leaves and any vine tips that look stunted exposes mealybugs and scale before they spread.

4

Wipe leaves with a damp cloth monthly

Pothos's heart-shaped leaves are smooth and broad and clean up beautifully. The wipe catches dust, early spider mites, and scale crawlers before they multiply.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Epipremnum aureum field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.