What's Eating Your Coleus?

Coleus scutellarioides
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For coleus, the most likely culprits are whiteflies (clouds of tiny white insects rising when leaves shake) and mealybugs (cottony tufts in leaf joints). Aphids cluster on tender new tips and spider mites stipple the leaves in dry indoor air. Slugs shred the soft variegated foliage overnight on outdoor plants.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Whiteflies

Damage
Critical
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Tiny white moth-like insects, 1 to 2 mm long, that lift in a small cloud when you brush the foliage. Nymphs are flat translucent scales pasted to the underside of coleus's heart-shaped leaves. Both stages cluster on lower foliage, where humidity stays highest.

What the damage looks like

Lower leaves yellow and drop, and a sticky honeydew coats the leaves below the infestation. Sooty black mold follows, masking the variegated color patterns that make coleus worth growing. Heavy populations stunt the plant and can kill smaller specimens in a single season.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Yellow sticky traps plus soap spray, weekly for 3 weeks

1

Stake 2 or 3 yellow sticky traps (Trappify, about ten dollars for 20) just above the canopy to catch flying adults.

2

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap on the underside of every leaf at dusk, focusing on the lower third of the plant.

3

Repeat the soap spray every 5 days for 3 weeks to break the lifecycle. Coleus's soft leaves tolerate soap well but rinse the foliage the next morning to keep color saturation.

Option 2

Horticultural oil for heavy infestations

When sticky traps fill within 2 days, spray Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil (about ten dollars) on every leaf surface in the evening. Coleus's thin leaves can burn in midday sun after an oil application, so apply after the heat of the day. Repeat every 7 days for 3 weeks.

Mealybugs

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Small soft insects covered in a white waxy fluff that looks like cotton or lint. They cluster deep in the leaf-node junctions and along coleus's hollow square stems. Slow-moving and easy to miss against pale variegations, especially on white or cream cultivars.

What the damage looks like

Stems weaken at infested nodes and snap easily, and the leaves above the colony yellow and curl. Sticky honeydew coats lower foliage and draws sooty mold. Indoor coleus overwintered for spring cuttings is the most vulnerable.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Cotton-swab alcohol at every node, weekly for 3 weeks

1

Dip a cotton swab in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol and dab every visible tuft, paying extra attention to the leaf-stem joints where colonies hide.

2

Use a fresh swab for each cluster so you don't transfer eggs to clean nodes.

3

Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers as they emerge from egg sacs.

Option 2

Take cuttings and discard the worst specimens

Heavily infested coleus is often faster to replace than to save. Snip 4 to 5 inch tips from clean upper growth, strip the lower leaves, and root them in fresh water. New plants are ready in 10 to 14 days, and you start mealybug-free. Toss the parent if it has cottony tufts on every node.

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft pear-shaped insects 2 to 3 mm long, in green, black, or grey, packed on the soft new shoot tips and flower spikes. They cluster on coleus's growing points where the leaves are still unfurling.

What the damage looks like

New leaves emerge twisted and stunted, often with a sticky honeydew coating that draws sooty mold. The plant pushes side shoots to compensate but loses the upright shape that makes coleus a good centerpiece. Aphids also vector mosaic viruses that distort future leaves.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Water blast at the new tips every 3 days

Aim a strong jet of water at the underside of new growth and the flowering tips. Most colonies dislodge in one pass and rarely climb back. Repeat every 3 days until you stop seeing fresh clusters, usually within 2 weeks. Pinch off the flower spikes anyway, since coleus is grown for foliage not bloom.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on the underside of new growth

For stubborn colonies, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Insect Killing Soap, about nine dollars) directly on the underside of new tips at dusk. Reapply every 5 days for two weeks. Avoid spraying in midday sun to prevent leaf burn on coleus's thin foliage.

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Specks barely larger than a pinhead, in tan, red, or pale yellow, clustered on the underside of coleus's heart-shaped leaves. Fine webbing between leaves and along the stems is the giveaway. Hold a sheet of white paper under a tapped stem to confirm.

What the damage looks like

Leaves show pale stippling along the veins, then fade to a dusty bronze and drop. Indoor coleus near heat vents loses lower foliage in 2 to 3 weeks. The variegation patterns wash out before the leaves drop, so color loss is an early warning sign.

How to get rid of them

Rinse, then horticultural oil weekly for 3 weeks

1

Take the plant to the sink or shower and blast both sides of every leaf with cool water for 60 seconds.

2

Once dry, spray Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil (about ten dollars) on every surface, including the underside of every leaf.

3

Repeat the oil spray every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched mites.

Slugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft-bodied brown or grey mollusks, 1 to 4 inches long, active overnight and on cool damp mornings. They hide under leaf litter, pot rims, and the underside of mulch by day. Look for silvery dried slime trails on stems and leaves at dawn.

What the damage looks like

Large ragged holes appear in coleus's soft leaves overnight, often eaten from the leaf edge inward. Whole young leaves vanish, and seedlings can be cut to the soil line. Damage is heaviest after rain and during the cool damp weeks of spring and autumn.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Iron phosphate slug bait scattered around the bed

Scatter Sluggo iron phosphate bait (about twelve dollars per pound) on the soil within a 2-foot radius of each coleus. The bait is safe for pets, birds, and beneficial insects. Reapply after heavy rain. One application usually clears a bed for 4 to 6 weeks.

Option 2

Beer trap and dawn hand-pick

1

Sink a shallow dish or yogurt cup so the rim sits flush with the soil, and fill with cheap beer.

2

Walk the bed at dawn for the first week and hand-pick any slugs not in the trap, dropping them into a jar of soapy water.

3

Refill the beer trap every 2 to 3 days. After 2 weeks, populations crash and the trap can come up.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that head off most coleus pest pressure before it starts.
1

Underleaf and node check, every Sunday

Whiteflies and mealybugs always start on the underside of leaves and in the leaf-stem joints. A 30-second flip-and-scan once a week catches the first generation while it can still be wiped or rinsed off, before the colorful canopy gets coated in honeydew.

2

Pinch flower spikes and tender tips weekly

Coleus pushes flower spikes constantly, and those soft new shoots are aphid magnets. Pinching also keeps the plant bushy and full. A weekly pinch removes the most attractive tissue and the aphid colonies starting on it in one motion.

3

Bright airy spot with morning sun

Stagnant heated indoor air drives spider mites and whiteflies. Keep coleus in a bright window with a few hours of morning sun, run a small fan nearby, and give summer plants a sheltered outdoor spot. Moving air alone suppresses both pests.

4

Quarantine new plants for 2 weeks

Most coleus infestations arrive on a fresh nursery plant. Set new specimens in a separate room for 2 weeks and inspect every node and leaf underside before adding them. This catches mealybugs and whiteflies before they spread to the rest of your collection.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Coleus scutellarioides field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.
14,760+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 10a–11b