What's Eating Your Canna Lily?

Canna x hybrida
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For canna lily, the most likely culprits are canna leaf rollers (new leaves emerge stitched shut, with a caterpillar hidden inside) and Japanese beetles (metallic copper beetles chewing flowers and leaves). Aphids cluster on new spikes, spider mites stipple foliage in hot dry weather, and slugs shred the soft spring growth overnight.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Canna leaf rollers

Damage
Critical
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Pale green caterpillars 1 to 1.5 inches long with a yellow-brown head, hidden inside the tightly rolled new leaf at the top of the canna stalk. The moth lays eggs in the unfurling leaf, and the caterpillar stitches the edges together with silk as it feeds inside.

What the damage looks like

New leaves never unfurl, stay rolled like cigars, and unfold into ragged shredded strips with rectangular holes punched in rows. Heavy infestations defoliate the plant within weeks and stop flower spikes before they emerge. The Lesser canna leaf roller is the dominant species across the southeast and Gulf Coast.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Bt spray into the new leaf cones, weekly

1

Mix one teaspoon Bt (Monterey BT or Safer Caterpillar Killer, about fifteen dollars) per quart of water in a spray bottle.

2

Spray directly into the top of each new rolled leaf at dusk, getting the solution deep into the cone where the caterpillar feeds.

3

Reapply every 7 days from late spring through early autumn. Bt only kills caterpillars actively chewing, so keep up the schedule to catch each new hatch.

Option 2

Cut and destroy heavily rolled leaves

For tightly rolled leaves that already show damage, snip the entire leaf at the base and drop it into a sealed bag for the trash, not the compost. This removes both the caterpillar and the silk-stitched egg sites in one motion. The canna will push fresh new growth from the rhizome within 2 weeks.

Japanese beetles

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Stocky metallic copper and green beetles, half an inch long, often clumped on a single leaf with smaller beetles climbing the cluster. Adults are most active on warm sunny mornings from late June through early August across the eastern and midwestern US.

What the damage looks like

Adults skeletonize canna's broad paddle leaves, leaving only the network of veins behind, and chew ragged holes in the bright flower petals. Damage often starts at the top of the plant and works downward. Plants survive but the season's flower display is ruined.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Hand-pick at dawn into soapy water

1

Walk the bed an hour after sunrise while the beetles are sluggish and easy to grab.

2

Knock clusters off into a wide-mouth jar of soapy water held under the leaf.

3

Repeat every morning for 3 to 4 weeks during peak activity. Daily pressure crashes local populations because beetles cluster on damaged plants and reinforce each other's pheromone trails.

Option 2

Skip the pheromone traps

Avoid Japanese beetle traps unless your neighbor is hosting them. The pheromone lure draws far more beetles than the trap captures, and the surplus feed on nearby plants including your canna. Hand-picking and Bt-based grub treatments on the lawn target the same population without the attractant problem.

Common myth

Pheromone traps protect your plants from Japanese beetles.

The lure pulls in beetles from a quarter mile away. Most fly past the trap and land on the nearest plant, which is yours. University trials show plants near traps suffer worse damage than untreated plants. Skip the traps and hand-pick instead.

Aphids

Damage
High
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft pear-shaped insects 2 to 3 mm long, in green, black, or grey, packed on the unopened flower spike and the soft new shoot tips. They concentrate where canna's leaf sheath meets the stalk and cling to bud clusters before the flowers open.

What the damage looks like

Flower buds drop without opening, and the spike often emerges deformed with twisted bracts. Sticky honeydew coats the lower leaves and draws sooty black mold. Aphids also vector canna mosaic virus, which streaks the leaves with yellow and reduces vigor permanently.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Water blast at the bud cluster every 3 days

Aim a strong jet of water at the underside of the flower spike and the leaf-sheath joints. Most colonies dislodge in one pass and rarely climb back up the smooth canna stalk. Repeat every 3 days until you stop seeing fresh clusters, usually within 2 weeks.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap if rinsing isn't enough

For stubborn colonies on tight bud clusters, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Insect Killing Soap, about nine dollars) directly on the spike at dusk. Reapply every 5 days for two weeks. Canna's waxy leaf surfaces shed soap residue well, but rinse the buds in the morning to keep the bloom colors vibrant.

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Specks barely larger than a pinhead, in tan, red, or pale yellow, clustered on the underside of canna's broad paddle leaves. Fine webbing collects in the leaf-sheath joints where the leaf wraps the stalk. A sheet of white paper held under a tapped leaf catches them.

What the damage looks like

Leaves show pale stippling along the veins, fade to a dusty bronze, and drop from the lower stalk upward. Damage is worst in hot dry weeks of July and August, especially on cannas planted in full sun with reflected heat from a wall or paving.

How to get rid of them

Rinse the underside, then horticultural oil weekly for 3 weeks

1

Spray the underside of every leaf with a strong hose stream, working from the lower leaves upward so falling water flushes mites downward.

2

Once the foliage dries, apply Bonide All Seasons Horticultural Oil (about ten dollars) on every surface in the evening.

3

Repeat the oil spray every 5 to 7 days for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched mites. Mulching the bed deeper also keeps soil temperatures down.

Slugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft-bodied brown or grey mollusks, 1 to 4 inches long, active overnight and on cool damp mornings. They hide under canna leaf litter, the leaf-sheath joints, and beneath mulch by day. Silvery dried slime trails on the stalks and lower leaves are the most obvious sign.

What the damage looks like

Large ragged holes appear in the soft spring growth overnight, often along the leaf edges and on the new shoots emerging from the rhizome. Heavy slug pressure shreds the first flush before it can open, leaving the plant looking torn even after it grows out.

How to get rid of them

Iron phosphate slug bait around the rhizome cluster

Scatter Sluggo iron phosphate bait (about twelve dollars per pound) on the soil within a 2-foot radius of each canna clump in early spring as the new shoots emerge. The bait is safe for pets, birds, and beneficial insects. Reapply after heavy rain. One application usually clears a bed for 4 to 6 weeks.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that head off most canna lily pest pressure before it starts.
1

Inspect new leaves as they emerge

Canna leaf rollers attack the new leaves at the top of the stalk before they unfurl. Check the rolled cones every few days from late spring onward. Catching the first generation while still inside one leaf prevents a season-long defoliation problem.

2

Cut and destroy frost-killed foliage in fall

Leaf roller pupae and aphid eggs overwinter in canna leaf litter and dead stalks. Cutting the bed back to the ground after the first hard frost and bagging the debris for the trash, not the compost, removes the next year's first generation before it can hatch.

3

Bright airy spot with morning sun

Cannas planted in full sun with good air movement get less spider mite and aphid pressure than cannas crowded against a wall or under tree shade. Space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart so each stalk has its own column of moving air.

4

Mulch deep but keep it off the rhizome

A 2-inch mulch layer suppresses slug habitat and moderates soil temperature against spider mite buildup. Pull the mulch back a few inches from the rhizome itself so the shoots can push through and the crown doesn't stay damp.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Canna x hybrida field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.
152+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 8a–11b