Calla Lily

What's Eating Your Calla Lily?

Zantedeschia aethiopica
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For calla lily, the most damaging pest is thrips because they scar the white spathes with brown streaks and ruin the bloom show. Aphids cluster on bloom stalks just below the spathe and on new leaf flushes. Spider mites stipple the broad arrowhead leaves in dry indoor winter air. Mealybugs sometimes tuck into the leaf-stalk joints at soil level.

Stay on top of plant care
Get seasonal reminders for watering and fertilizing, personalized for your plants.
Try Greg Free

What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Slender adult thrips (Frankliniella sp.) on a flower petal

Thrips

Damage
High
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Slender dark insects 1 to 2 mm long that walk along surfaces rather than fly. Hide in the folds of the white spathe and at the base of the yellow spadix. Tap an open spathe over a sheet of white paper to flush them out.

What the damage looks like

Brown streaks and silver scars across the white spathe, often with tiny black droppings alongside. Spathes emerge distorted or fail to open cleanly. New leaves come out scarred too. The bloom is the entire reason people grow calla lily, and thrips ruin it.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Blue sticky traps near the bloom canopy

Hang blue sticky cards (Trappify or Stikem, ~$10 per pack) at the height of the spathes. Thrips are drawn to blue and stick on contact. Replace every 2 weeks. Won't clear an infestation alone but knocks down the breeding population while spray works.

Option 2

Spinosad spray, weekly for 3 weeks

Spinosad (Captain Jack's or Monterey Garden Insect Spray, ~$12 to $15) is the most effective home treatment for thrips. Spray every leaf surface and into the spathe folds at lights-out. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks to break the life cycle. Safe to use right up until the spathe opens.

Option 3

Cut and bag affected blooms

Damaged spathes won't recover, and they're the breeding hotspot. Snip the stalk at soil level, seal the spent bloom in a plastic bag, and trash it. The rhizome will push fresh stalks once thrips pressure drops.

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Soft-bodied green, black, or pink insects 1 to 3 mm long. Cluster densely on the inflorescence stalk just below the spathe and on the youngest leaf flushes as they unfurl. Move slowly and squish easily between fingers.

What the damage looks like

Sticky shiny film on the bloom stalk and lower leaves. New leaves emerge curled or stunted. Heavy clusters can weaken a bloom stalk enough that the spathe leans or fails to open fully. Ants farming the aphids are a giveaway when calla is grown outdoors.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water rinse, every 3 days for 2 weeks

Take the plant to the sink or hose and blast the bloom stalk and leaf undersides with cool water. Aphids can't reattach quickly once knocked off. Repeat every 3 days until you stop seeing fresh clusters. Calla lily's tough fleshy stalks tolerate firm spray.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on stalks and new growth

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer or Bonide, ~$10) directly on the cluster, the bloom stalk, and the underside of new leaves. Coats and suffocates aphids on contact. Reapply every 5 days for 2 weeks to catch newly hatched nymphs.

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Yellow-green to red-orange specks running along the underside of the broad arrowhead leaves, especially close to the central vein. Heated indoor winter air dries calla foliage and triggers fast population growth.

What the damage looks like

Pale tiny pale dots spreads in patches across the glossy upper leaf surface and dulls the deep green color. Fine webbing strung between the leaf and the fleshy stalk in heavy infestations. Bloom stalks can emerge weaker when foliage is stressed.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the leaves weekly for 3 weeks

Move the calla to the shower or sink. Spray cool water on the underside of every arrowhead leaf for 30 seconds, top side too. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off. Calla lily's broad waxy leaves rinse clean easily. Repeat weekly for 3 weeks.

Option 2

Neem oil at lights-out, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Mix 2 tablespoons cold-pressed neem oil and 1 teaspoon dish soap per gallon of water.

2

Spray top and bottom of every leaf at lights-out, focusing on the underside near the central vein where colonies start.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult cycle.

Option 3

Raise humidity above 50%

Run a humidifier near the plant for 50 to 60% relative humidity. Calla lily is a South African wetland plant and welcomes the moisture. Hot dry indoor heating is the climate mites need to breed fast.

Cluster of long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus) showing the white cottony wax on a leaf

Mealybugs

Damage
Medium
Removal
Hard
What it looks like

Soft white insects covered in cottony fluff, 2 to 4 mm long. Tuck into the spots where fleshy leaf stalks rise from the rhizome at soil level, and into the folds where stalks meet the spathe. Slow-moving and often missed because of where they hide.

What the damage looks like

White cottony tufts at the base of leaf stalks and along the soil line. A sticky shiny film on the stalks below the cluster. New leaves emerge stunted or yellowed. Severe infestations stop the rhizome from putting up fresh bloom stalks.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol

Dab every visible mealybug. The alcohol melts the waxy coating and kills on contact. Pull leaf stalks gently apart to reach colonies tucked at the rhizome line. Repeat every 3 days for 3 weeks to catch newly hatched eggs.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap + neem oil rotation, 4 weeks

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap on stalk bases and the soil surface at lights-out. Alternate weekly with neem oil. Continue 4 weeks because eggs hatch in protected pockets near the rhizome over time and need ongoing pressure.

Option 3

Isolate the plant from your collection

Move the calla at least 6 feet from other houseplants. Mealybugs spread by crawling. Wipe nearby pots, the windowsill, and any tools that touched the infested plant.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep calla lily pests rare and protect the spathe show.
1

Spathe and stalk check, every Sunday

Thrips hide in spathe folds and aphids cluster on bloom stalks just below the bract. A weekly 30-second look catches both before they scar the bloom you're growing the plant for.

2

Quarantine new houseplants for 2 weeks

Thrips and mealybugs travel home from the nursery on the plant you bought. Two weeks of isolation catches anything before it spreads to your collection or the calla's open spathes.

3

Wipe the broad leaves with a damp cloth monthly

Calla lily's arrowhead leaves are smooth and glossy and clean up beautifully. The wipe catches dust, early spider mites, and aphid scouts before they multiply on the foliage.

4

Water the rhizome, not the crown

Pour at the soil line so leaf-stalk bases stay dry. Damp crowns invite both rhizome rot, which kills more callas than any pest, and the fungus gnats that signal the same overwatering.

Stay on top of plant care
Get seasonal reminders for watering and fertilizing, personalized for your plants.
Try Greg Free

About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Zantedeschia aethiopica field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.