Bird's Nest Ferns thrive in plastic or glazed ceramic pots, which hold moisture and prevent the soil from drying out between waterings. Choose a wide, shallow pot 1–2 inches wider than the root mass, since this fern spreads outward rather than deep. Drainage holes are essential.
What Size Pot Does a Bird's Nest Fern Need?
Bird's Nest Ferns have shallow, fibrous root systems that spread outward as the rosette expands. The roots don't go deep, so a wide, shallower pot suits them better than a tall standard pot. Start with a pot that's only 1–2 inches wider than the current root mass and size up from there.
These ferns can grow quite large, reaching up to 3 feet wide at maturity. Move up one pot size at a time as the plant fills out, usually every 1–2 years for a young plant. Oversized pots hold too much wet soil relative to the small root system, and soggy soil is the most common way to lose a Bird's Nest Fern.
If the fern looks crowded, roots are poking out of drainage holes, or the soil drains and dries out much faster than it used to, it's time to move up a size.
Young plant (fronds under 12")4–6"
Growing plant (fronds 12–20")6–8"
Established plant (fronds 20–30")8–10"
Mature specimen (fronds over 30")10–14"
What Material Pot Is Best for a Bird's Nest Fern?
Bird's nest fern grows as an epiphyte in its natural habitat, anchoring itself to trees and absorbing moisture from the air and surface rather than deep soil. Its roots are shallow and designed to stay consistently moist, never drying out fully between waterings.
Because this fern doesn't root deeply, it needs a container that holds moisture steadily at the surface level without forcing roots to sit in pooled water. A pot that drains freely but doesn't shed moisture too quickly from the walls gives these shallow roots the humid, stable environment they're adapted to.
Dries fastest → Slowest
FabricTOO FAST
Fabric dries out too fast for Bird's Nest Ferns, which need consistently moist soil and will decline quickly when the root zone dries out.
Best for Bird's Nest Fern
Unglazed Ceramic
Unglazed ceramic is breathable and works well for Bird's Nest Ferns if you water a little more often to offset the extra evaporation through the pot walls.
Wood
Wood provides good insulation and moderate moisture retention, making it a comfortable option for Bird's Nest Ferns kept indoors.
Glazed Ceramic
Glazed ceramic holds moisture well and is a great all-around choice for Bird's Nest Ferns, with a wide variety of attractive styles available.
Plastic
Plastic retains moisture longest and is one of the best practical choices for Bird's Nest Ferns, keeping the soil consistently moist with less frequent watering.
Metal
Metal works fine for Bird's Nest Ferns indoors, though choose a light-colored pot if it's placed near a bright window to prevent heat buildup.
Bird's Nest Ferns are one of the thirstiest houseplants around, with almost no tolerance for dry soil. Fabric pots dry out far too quickly and will leave the fronds crispy within days.
The best choices lean toward the moisture-retaining end of the spectrum. Glazed ceramic and plastic are both excellent picks that keep the soil consistently damp with less frequent watering. Plastic is especially practical and forgiving for beginners.
Unglazed ceramic and wood work too if you water a little more often to offset the extra evaporation. Whichever material you choose, consistent moisture is the single most important thing for this fern.
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Yes, always. Bird's Nest Ferns love moisture, but that doesn't mean they can sit in standing water. The roots need air as much as water, and a pot with no drainage will develop anaerobic, soggy conditions at the bottom that rot the roots quickly.
If you want to use a decorative pot without holes, use it as a cachepot: grow the fern in a plain nursery pot with drainage and set it inside the decorative container. Always empty any water that collects in the bottom within an hour of watering.
When Should I Repot My Bird's Nest Fern?
Bird's Nest Ferns are moderate growers and typically need repotting every 1–2 years when young and actively growing. As the plant matures and fills out a larger pot, repotting intervals stretch to every 2–3 years. These ferns don't like to be disturbed unnecessarily, so wait for clear signals before moving them.
Spring is the best time to repot, when the plant is entering its active growing season and can recover quickly. Handle the root mass gently: Bird's Nest Ferns have delicate, fibrous roots that can be damaged by rough handling. Go up just one pot size to avoid leaving too much damp soil around the roots.
After repotting, keep the plant in a humid spot away from direct sun for a few weeks while it settles in.
Signs It's Time to Repot
Roots growing out of drainage holes
Soil drying out much faster than usual after watering
New fronds are noticeably smaller than older ones
Root mass has filled and compacted the entire pot
Plant is unstable or tipping in the current pot
Can I Plant My Bird's Nest Fern in the Ground?
Bird's Nest Ferns are hardy in USDA zones 10a–12b, which limits in-ground planting to frost-free tropical and subtropical regions. In those climates, they grow beautifully in the ground under the dappled shade of trees, in humid, well-draining soil rich in organic matter.
For most gardeners in cooler climates, Bird's Nest Ferns are indoor plants year-round. They can move outside to a shaded patio during summer as long as nighttime temperatures stay above 60°F, but they must come back indoors well before the first frost. These ferns have essentially no cold tolerance and will suffer permanent frond damage below 50°F.
Got More Questions?
Can I use a pot without drainage holes for my Bird's Nest Fern?
Not recommended. Bird's Nest Ferns love moisture but can't tolerate sitting in water, which quickly leads to root rot. If you love a decorative pot without holes, use it as a cachepot: grow the fern in a plain pot with drainage inside it, and empty collected water after every watering.
How do I know if the pot is too big for my Bird's Nest Fern?
If the soil stays wet for more than 10 days after watering or the plant looks small relative to its container, the pot is too big. Excess soil holds moisture the small root system can't use, creating soggy conditions that cause root rot. Choose a pot just 1–2 inches wider than the root ball.
Can I grow a Bird's Nest Fern in a hanging basket?
Yes, but choose a lined basket with a plastic liner or use a plastic hanging pot rather than an open wire basket. Open wire or coconut-fiber baskets dry out much too quickly for Bird's Nest Ferns, which need consistently moist soil.
Should I use a deep or shallow pot for a Bird's Nest Fern?
Shallow and wide. Bird's Nest Ferns have a shallow, spreading root system that matches the outward growth of the rosette. A wide, shallower pot (like an azalea or bulb pot) fits the roots better and reduces wet, unused soil at the bottom of a deep pot.
What happens if my Bird's Nest Fern dries out too much?
The fronds will droop, brown at the tips, and may crinkle. Unlike some drought-tolerant houseplants, Bird's Nest Ferns don't spring back quickly from severe drying. That's why pot material matters: plastic and glazed ceramic hold moisture longer and give you more time between waterings than fabric or unglazed ceramic does.
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Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Container guidance verified against Asplenium nidus growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.
