How to Repot a Spider Plant

Chlorophytum comosum

Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel, M.S.

Quick Answer

Repot a Spider Plant every 1 to 2 years into a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot. Use a standard houseplant mix with extra perlite for fast drainage. Spring through summer is the best window, when the plant is in active growth.

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How to Know It's Time to Repot

Spider Plants are vigorous growers with fleshy roots that fill a pot fast. The plant gives you four clear signals when it's time for a new home.

1

Roots have pushed up above the soil, lifting the whole crown of leaves.
2

The plant has roughly doubled in size since you last potted it up.
3

Soil dries out within a day or two of a thorough watering.
4

The plant has stopped sending out baby spiderettes, even with bright light.

One sign on its own isn't enough to act on, but two or more together means it's time. Most Spider Plants need a fresh pot every 1 to 2 years, since they grow fast and fill pots quickly with their fleshy roots.

The Best Time of Year to Repot

Spider Plants recover fastest from repotting when they're in active growth, which kicks in once daytime light gets long and strong. Spring through early summer is the sweet spot.

The roots heal quickly in warm, well-lit conditions, and there's plenty of growing season left for the plant to settle in. Use the map below to find your window.

North

Apr – Jul

Mid

Mar – Aug

South

Feb – Sep

How to Choose a Pot and Soil Mix

Pot Size

Move up to a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot. Spider Plants have thick, fleshy roots that fill a pot quickly, so they appreciate the room. But going much bigger leaves too much wet soil around the roots and risks rot.

Pot Material

Plastic and glazed ceramic are the best fit for Spider Plants. Both hold moisture long enough to keep the leaves lush without constant watering.

Terracotta works too, but you'll need to water more often. Whichever material you pick, make sure the pot has drainage holes. Spider Plant roots rot fast in standing water.

Soil Mix

Mix two parts standard potting soil with one part perlite for the balanced, well-draining blend Spider Plants want. The perlite gives the fleshy roots air pockets and prevents the mix from packing down over time.

Skip moisture-control formulas and dense peat-heavy mixes. Both hold too much water for these roots and lead to brown leaf tips and root rot.

How to Repot a Spider Plant, Step by Step

1

Water the day before. Give the plant a thorough drink the day before repotting. Moist soil holds the root ball together when you slide it out and keeps the fleshy roots from breaking as you work.
2

Pick the new pot. Choose a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot, with drainage holes. Layer an inch of fresh mix in the bottom so the crown will sit at the same height it did before.
3

Slide the plant out. Tip the pot onto its side and gently work the root ball loose. If the plant is stuck, run a butter knife around the inside edge of the pot to release it, or break the pot if the roots have it locked in place.
4

Loosen the roots. Gently untangle any roots that have wound themselves into a tight circle at the bottom. Trim away any sections that are black, mushy, or smell off. Healthy Spider Plant roots are firm and white.
5

Set it in the new pot. Center the plant with the crown sitting just at the soil line. Do not bury the crown deeper. Fill in around the sides with fresh mix, pressing gently as you go to remove air pockets.
6

Water and place in bright indirect light. Water slowly until you see it run out the drainage holes. Set the plant somewhere bright but out of harsh direct sun for the first couple of weeks. Hold off on fertilizer for 4 to 6 weeks so the roots can heal.

What to Expect After Repotting

Week 1

A little droop, a yellow lower leaf, or a brief pause in new growth is normal as the roots settle into their new soil.

Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy, give the plant bright indirect light, and skip fertilizer for now.

Weeks 2 to 4

Fresh blade-like leaves emerging from the center of the crown are the clearest signal that the plant has rooted in and is ready for normal care.

Slide the pot back into its usual spot and ease into your regular watering rhythm. Start half-strength liquid fertilizer once new growth is clearly underway, and build up to full strength over the next two or three feedings.

Got More Questions?

Do Spider Plants like to be root-bound?

Mildly. A slightly snug pot encourages Spider Plants to send out more baby spiderettes, which is their main charm. But a truly pot-bound plant stops producing babies and starts pushing roots up above the soil, which is the cue to repot.

Can I repot my Spider Plant right after I bring it home?

Give it two to four weeks to adjust to your home's light and humidity first, unless it's clearly root-bound when you unbox it. A new environment plus a new pot at the same time is two stressors at once.

What if my pot doesn't have drainage holes?

Don't repot directly into it. Spider Plants rot fast in standing water, so plant in a nursery pot with drainage and slip that inside the decorative pot. If you want to use the decorative pot directly, drilling works for unglazed terracotta, but glazed ceramic and thin pots tend to shatter. Use a diamond bit with a slow drip of water if you try it.

Can I divide my Spider Plant when I repot?

Yes, and a repot is the easiest time to do it. Tease the root ball apart into two or more sections, making sure each section has its own crown of leaves and a healthy share of roots. Pot each division in its own container with the same mix.

Can I plant the baby spiderettes when I repot the parent?

Yes. Snip a baby spiderette from the runner, plant it in a small pot of fresh mix, and water it in. Babies with their own little roots will root quickly. Ones without roots may take a couple of weeks but will eventually establish.

Why does my Spider Plant have brown leaf tips after I repot?

Brown tips usually mean tap water with too much chlorine or fluoride, or under-watering. Repotting itself doesn't cause brown tips, but the stress of a new pot can make existing brown tips more obvious. Switch to filtered or distilled water and keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) to clear it up.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel, M.S.

Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist

About the Author

Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.

See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.

Editorial Process

Repotting guidance verified against Chlorophytum comosum growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.

72,758+ Greg users growing this plant

USDA hardiness zones 9a–11b

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