How to Repot a Money Tree

Pachira aquatica

Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel, M.S.

Quick Answer

Repot a Money Tree every 2 to 3 years into a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot. Use a well-draining houseplant mix with extra perlite. Spring through early summer is the best window, when the plant is in active growth.

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How to Know It's Time to Repot

Money Trees grow at a moderate pace and fill a pot steadily over a couple of years. The plant gives you four clear signals when its roots have run out of room.

1

Roots circle the bottom of the pot or push out through the drainage holes.
2

The plant has roughly doubled in size since you last potted it up.
3

Soil dries out within a day or two of a thorough watering.
4

The braided trunk feels loose in the pot, as if the root ball is shifting.

One sign on its own is not enough to act on, but two or more together means it's time. Most Money Trees need a fresh pot every 2 to 3 years, with mature plants stretching to every 3 to 4.

The Best Time of Year to Repot

Money Trees recover fastest from repotting when they're in active growth, which kicks in once daytime light gets long and strong. Spring through early summer is the sweet spot.

The roots heal quickly in warm, well-lit conditions, and there's plenty of growing season left for the plant to settle in before winter slowdown. Use the map below to pin down your window.

North

Apr – Jul

Mid

Mar – Aug

South

Feb – Sep

How to Choose a Pot and Soil Mix

Pot Size

Move up to a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot. Money Trees are sensitive to overwatering, so jumping more than that leaves too much wet soil around the roots and can cause rot.

Pot Material

Terracotta is the best fit for Money Trees. The walls breathe, so the soil dries evenly between waterings, which matters for a plant prone to root rot.

Plastic and glazed ceramic work too, but you will need to water less often to keep the soil from staying soggy. Whichever material you pick, make sure the pot has drainage holes. Money Trees rot fast in standing water.

Soil Mix

Mix two parts standard potting soil with one part perlite for the well-draining blend Money Trees prefer. A handful of orchid bark adds extra air pockets and helps prevent the mix from packing down.

Skip moisture-control formulas and dense peat-heavy mixes. Both hold too much water for these roots and lead to root rot.

How to Repot a Money Tree, Step by Step

1

Water the day before. Give the plant a thorough drink the day before repotting. Moist soil holds the root ball together when you slide it out and keeps the fine roots from tearing as you work.
2

Pick the new pot. Choose a pot that's 1 to 2 inches wider than the current pot, with drainage holes. Layer an inch of fresh mix in the bottom so the root ball will sit at the same height it did before.
3

Slide the plant out. Tip the pot onto its side and gently work the root ball loose. Hold the braided trunk near the base, not partway up. If the plant is stuck, run a butter knife around the inside edge of the pot to release it.
4

Inspect the roots. Gently untangle any roots that have wound themselves into a tight circle at the bottom. Trim away any sections that are black, mushy, or smell sour. Healthy Money Tree roots are firm and pale tan or cream-colored.
5

Set it in the new pot. Center the braid at the same depth it was growing before, with the top of the root ball just below the rim. Fill in around the sides with fresh mix, pressing gently as you go to keep the trunk upright.
6

Water and place in bright indirect light. Water slowly until you see it run out the drainage holes. Set the plant somewhere bright but out of harsh direct sun for the first couple of weeks, and hold off on fertilizer for 4 to 6 weeks while the roots heal.

What to Expect After Repotting

Week 1

A little droop, a yellow lower leaf, or a brief pause in new growth is normal as the roots settle into their new soil.

Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy, give the plant bright indirect light, and skip fertilizer for now. Resist the urge to move the pot around the house while it's recovering.

Weeks 2 to 4

A fresh leaf unfurling at the top of one of the stems is the clearest signal that the plant has rooted in and is ready for normal care.

Slide the pot back into its usual spot and ease into your regular watering rhythm. Start half-strength liquid fertilizer once you see clear new growth, and build up to full strength over the next two or three feedings.

Got More Questions?

Do Money Trees like to be root-bound?

Mildly. Money Trees tolerate a snug pot better than many houseplants, and a slightly cramped fit actually keeps them from getting too tall. But a truly pot-bound Money Tree slows down and drops leaves, which is the cue to repot.

Can I repot my Money Tree right after I bring it home?

Give it two to four weeks to adjust to your home's light and humidity before repotting, unless it's clearly root-bound when you unbox it. A plant settling into a new environment and a new pot at the same time has to handle two stressors at once.

What if my pot doesn't have drainage holes?

Don't repot directly into it. Money Trees rot fast in standing water, so plant in a nursery pot with drainage and slip that inside the decorative pot. If you want to use the decorative pot directly, drilling works for unglazed terracotta, but glazed ceramic and thin pots tend to shatter. Use a diamond bit with a slow drip of water if you try it.

Can I separate the braided trunks when I repot?

Technically yes, but it usually fails. The trunks have grown together over years and pulling them apart almost always damages roots on each one. If you want individual plants, take stem cuttings instead and let them root on their own.

Why is my Money Tree dropping leaves after I repot?

A few yellow lower leaves are normal in the first week or two as the roots settle in. Heavier leaf drop usually means the soil is staying too wet. Check that the new pot has drainage holes and let the top inch of soil dry between waterings.

What if I find rotted roots?

Trim away every soft, mushy, or smelly section with a clean knife, cutting back into firm pale tissue. Let the cuts air-dry for a few hours before potting up, then plant in fresh dry mix and water sparingly for the first two weeks.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel, M.S.

Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist

About the Author

Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.

See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.

Editorial Process

Repotting guidance verified against Pachira aquatica growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.

54,746+ Greg users growing this plant

USDA hardiness zones 10a–12b

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