How to Grow a Don Juan Climbing Rose

Sun

Full sun is required for heavy bloom. At least six hours of direct sun a day, eight or more is better. Less than four hours of sun produces a leafy climber with sparse flowers and more disease pressure. Morning sun is especially valuable since it dries the foliage early in the day and reduces black spot.

Drainage

Well-drained soil is essential. The roots rot in heavy clay that stays wet. Dig a one-foot test hole and fill with water. If it drains within a few hours, the spot is fine. If water sits longer, build a raised mound 6 to 12 inches above grade and plant the rose on top of it.

Soil

Rich garden soil with plenty of organic matter is what this rose wants. Work three to four inches of compost into the planting area before you set the rose in. Climbing roses are heavy feeders and produce poorly in lean ground.

Space and the support

Choose the structure at planting and set it firmly in place before the rose goes in. A sturdy arbor, pergola, trellis, or chain link fence rated for the load all work. Lightweight decorative trellises bend under the weight of mature canes. Position the rose 8 to 12 inches in front of the support to allow room for the base to expand, and leave enough air space around the plant for good airflow.

Watering

Water deeply once or twice a week through the first growing season, soaking the root zone rather than wetting the leaves. A drip line or soaker hose at the base works best. Wet foliage encourages black spot, the most common rose disease.

Established plants in average soil need a deep weekly soak through dry spells, more often in sandy ground or hot weather. Consistent moisture matters more than total volume — uneven watering stresses the plant and reduces bloom quality.

Feeding

Feed three times per growing season with a balanced rose fertilizer or a slow-release general-purpose feed. First feeding in early spring as new growth pushes, second after the first bloom flush, and third in midsummer to support the late-season repeat bloom.

Stop feeding by early August in cold-winter zones so new growth has time to harden off before the first frost. Cold zone plants need to slow down before winter, and late nitrogen leaves tender shoots that freeze back.

Ongoing tying and training

Through the growing season, tie new long canes loosely to the support as they grow, training them in a horizontal or fan pattern. Avoid letting canes grow straight up — horizontal training produces 5 to 10 times more flowers per cane.

Use soft twine, plant ties, or strips of old t-shirt material. Avoid wire that cuts into the canes as they thicken.

Late-winter main pruning

Prune in late winter while the plant is still dormant, about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost. Remove any dead, broken, or diseased canes at the base. Cut the side shoots (the smaller branches off the main canes) back to 3 to 6 inches, with the lowest cut just above an outward-facing bud. Each pruned side shoot will produce one or more new flowering stems in spring.

Take out one or two of the very oldest, woodiest main canes at ground level each year once the plant is mature. This renewal cut encourages fresh strong canes from the base.

Deadheading through the season

Cut off spent flowers as they fade, snipping the stem back to the first set of five healthy leaves. Deadheading stops the plant from setting hips and encourages a second flush of bloom in midsummer. Stop deadheading in early fall so the plant slows down and prepares for winter — the developing hips signal the rose to begin dormancy.

Bloom timing

The first heavy flush opens in late May or June depending on the zone, with each bloom 4 to 5 inches across in classic high-centered rose form. The plant repeat-blooms in lighter flushes every 5 to 6 weeks through summer if you deadhead consistently, with a final flush often in early fall before frost.

Fragrance

The scent is one of the strongest in the climbing rose category — a classic deep rose fragrance with a hint of fruit. The fragrance is strongest in midmorning before the day heats up. Plant near a window, doorway, or seating area where the scent can be appreciated daily through the bloom window.

Cutting for arrangements

The long stems make excellent cut flowers. Cut stems early in the morning when the buds are just starting to open, with at least five sets of leaves below the bloom. Strip the lower leaves, recut the stem under water at an angle, and place in a clean vase. Cut blooms hold for 5 to 7 days indoors.

Fall hips

If you stop deadheading in early fall and let the last blooms set hips, the rose develops orange-red rose hips that hold through winter. The hips are a minor secondary feature and a useful cold-season look, plus they feed birds in winter.

Black spots on leaves with yellowing

Black spot, the most common rose disease, spread by water splash from infected leaves. Remove and discard affected leaves and any that fall to the ground. Avoid overhead watering and water early in the day so foliage dries quickly. Mulch beneath the plant to reduce splash. A weekly fungicide spray starting in early spring is sometimes needed in humid climates.

Sparse bloom on tall canes

Canes trained straight up bloom only at the tips, while horizontally-trained canes set side shoots and flowers along the entire length. Retrain the main canes to grow more horizontally or in a fan pattern, tying them loosely to the support. The first season after retraining gives a much heavier bloom.

Aphids on new growth and buds

Small green or pink insects clustered on shoots and developing buds. Knock them off with a strong spray of water early in the morning. Heavier infestations respond to insecticidal soap. Lady beetles eat aphids fast, so let any that show up stay on the plants.

Spider mites in hot dry weather

Fine stippling on leaves and faint webbing in the leaf joints during summer heat. Spray the undersides of the leaves with a strong jet of water every few days. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil clears heavier infestations. Adequate watering through dry spells is the best prevention.

Holes chewed in flower buds

Often rose chafer beetles or Japanese beetles, depending on the region. Hand-pick beetles in the early morning when they are slow and drop them in soapy water. Bag traps placed well away from the rose bed reduce populations but can attract more beetles to the yard, so place them carefully. Heavy infestations may need a targeted insecticide labeled for ornamental beetles.

Powdery mildew on new growth

White dusty film on the leaves, common in cool nights with warm days. Improve airflow by thinning crowded growth during the late winter pruning. Avoid late-day watering that leaves foliage damp overnight. A potassium bicarbonate or horticultural oil spray every 7 to 10 days slows the spread.

Cane dieback after winter

Dead-looking cane tips in early spring are common after harsh winters, especially in zones 5 and 6. Wait until new growth pushes in late spring before cutting anything. Cut dead canes back to the lowest green bud or back to a healthy lateral. Winter protection with mulch piled around the base in cold zones reduces the damage.

Suckers from the rootstock

Long thin canes with different-looking leaves emerging from below the graft union. These are shoots from the rootstock, not the named variety, and should be removed. Trace each sucker back to the rootstock and tear it off cleanly rather than cutting, which leaves a stub that resprouts.

Rose rosette disease

Distorted red growth that looks witches'-broom-like, often with thick clusters of thorns. The disease is fatal to roses and spreads via tiny mites. Remove and bag the entire plant including the roots, and do not replant another rose in the same spot for at least a year. The disease is increasingly common in the southeastern United States and remains incurable.