How to Prune Money Tree

Pachira aquatica

Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.

Quick Answer

Prune your Money Tree in spring (March–May) when it's actively growing and can heal quickly. Focus on removing dead or yellowing leaves, crossing branches, and any stems that are disrupting the plant's natural layered shape. Never remove more than a quarter of the canopy at once.

When is the best time to prune?

Money Tree is a tropical that grows year-round indoors, but the ideal time to prune is during the active spring growth flush when the plant can recover fastest.

Pacific

Mar–May

Mountain

Apr–Jun

Midwest

Apr–May

Northeast

Apr–May

Southeast

Mar–May

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Why Should I Prune My Money Tree?

Money Trees grow quickly and can get top-heavy or lopsided if left untended. A little pruning in spring keeps the canopy balanced and prevents any single branch from dominating the shape.

The most common reason to prune is to remove dead or yellowing leaves, which can appear year-round. Beyond that, you might trim back a branch that's growing toward a wall, getting tangled with others, or making the canopy look uneven.

When cutting, make your cut about a quarter inch above a node (where a leaf meets the stem). New growth will emerge from just below the cut. For larger stems, use clean pruners. For small leafy growth, scissors work fine.

Avoid heavy pruning in fall or winter. Indoor Money Trees slow down in lower light, and large cuts at that time can leave the plant looking sparse for months. Spring pruning wounds close quickly because the plant is actively growing.

Know Before You Cut

Difficulty Easy

Max removal 1/4 of canopy per session

Growth pattern Branching tree

Tools Pruners or scissors

What Should I Remove?

Remove dead, brown, or yellowing leaves anytime

Trim crossing branches back to a node in spring

Cut stems that disrupt the plant's layered shape

Make cuts just above a leaf node at a slight angle

Don't remove more than 1/4 of the canopy at once

Don't prune heavily in fall or winter

Don't cut the braided trunk — that's structural, not prunable growth

How Do I Prune Step by Step?

Choose your timing in spring

Wait until March or April when you see new leaf buds forming. This is when the plant is primed to heal and push new growth after a cut.

Remove dead and yellowing leaves first

Pull or snip off any brown or yellow leaves at the base of the leaf stem, close to where it meets the main branch. This is low-risk maintenance you can do any time of year.

Identify branches to shorten

Step back and look at the overall shape. Find any branches that are crossing others, growing too long, or making one side of the canopy heavier than the other.

Cut above a leaf node

Make your cut about a quarter inch above a node where a leaf attaches. Cut at a slight angle away from the node. New growth will emerge from just below this point, filling the gap naturally.

Wipe your tools and step back

Clean your pruners with rubbing alcohol after use. Rotate the pot to check that the shape looks balanced from all sides. You can always take more off later, but you can't put it back.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I prune my Money Tree indoors year-round?

Light maintenance like removing dead leaves is fine any time. For more significant shaping, stick to spring and early summer when the plant is growing actively and will fill in the gaps faster.

I cut off too many branches at once. Will it recover?

Money Trees are fairly resilient. As long as the braided trunk is intact and a reasonable amount of foliage remains, it will push new growth. Move it to a bright spot and be patient. Recovery can take 4–8 weeks.

Why is my Money Tree getting leggy with leaves only at the tips?

This is usually a light issue, not a pruning issue. Money Trees drop lower leaves when they're not getting enough light. Move it closer to a window, then trim back the long bare stems to about half their length just above a node to encourage more even branching.

Should I prune the braided trunk of my Money Tree?

No. The braided trunk is made from the original canes and is a fixed structural feature. Prune only the leafy branches that grow from the top of the trunk, not the trunk itself.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.

Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist

About the Author

Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.

See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.

Editorial Process

Pruning guidance verified against Pachira aquatica growth data from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research.

53,450+ Greg users growing this plant

USDA hardiness zones 10a–12b

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