Chinese Evergreen

What's Wrong with My Chinese Evergreen?

Aglaonema commutatum
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer
1.
Most problems trace back to watering.
Yellow leaves, drooping, and mushy stems are almost always caused by overwatering. Check the soil before anything else. If it is wet and the plant looks sick, stop watering.
2.
Cold air causes more damage than most owners expect.
Chinese Evergreen hates temperatures below 60°F and drafts from air conditioning vents or cold windows. If watering looks fine and the plant is drooping or yellowing, check what is blowing on it.
3.
Watch the newest unfurling leaf at the top.
Chinese Evergreen pushes new patterned leaves steadily from the top of each stem. If a fresh leaf is coming in clean, the plant is still fighting and problems on the older leaves are usually fixable.
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Common Chinese Evergreen Problems

Yellow leaves

Overwatering

Chinese Evergreen has fine roots that suffocate quickly in waterlogged soil. When they rot, the plant pulls nutrients back from the lowest leaves first, and yellowing climbs up the stem. The broad leaves mask the early stages, so by the time yellowing is obvious the roots may already be in bad shape.

1. Stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out fully before the next drink
2. Check the base of the stem for soft or dark tissue. If firm, resume watering on a drier schedule
3. If the stem base is soft, cut the plant above all soft tissue and root the healthy top in fresh mix
Cold shock

Chinese Evergreen is a tropical plant from Southeast Asian rainforests and cannot handle temperatures below 60°F. Cold air from a vent or drafty window triggers rapid yellowing, often affecting multiple leaves at once rather than moving up from the bottom like overwatering does.

1. Move the plant away from air conditioning vents, cold windows, and exterior doors
2. Keep it in a spot that stays above 60°F year-round
3. Yellowed leaves will not recover, but new growth should come in clean once the temperature stabilizes
Normal lower-leaf drop

As Chinese Evergreen matures and produces new leaves at the top, it sheds the oldest ones at the base of the stem. This is normal. If just one or two of the lowest leaves are yellowing while new growth looks healthy at the top, the plant is fine.

Brown tips

Low humidity

Chinese Evergreen evolved in humid Southeast Asian rainforests and struggles when indoor air drops below 40% humidity. The leaf tips brown and crisp first because they are the furthest point from the water moving up the stem.

1. Run a humidifier nearby or group the plant with other plants to raise local humidity
2. Move it away from heating vents and radiators, which pull moisture from the air
3. Brown tips will not recover, but new leaves should come in clean once humidity improves
Fluoride in tap water

Chinese Evergreen is one of the more fluoride-sensitive houseplants. Fluoride in municipal water accumulates in leaf tissue over time and causes tip browning that looks similar to humidity damage, but often appears on younger leaves too rather than just the oldest ones.

1. Switch to filtered water, rainwater, or tap water left out overnight
2. Flush the soil thoroughly every few months to wash out accumulated mineral salts
3. Brown tips already present will not recover

Drooping leaves

Underwatering

Chinese Evergreen's broad leaves lose water steadily. When the pot dries out completely, the plant cannot maintain pressure in its stems and the leaves go limp and hang. Recovery is usually fast once the plant gets a thorough drink.

1. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom
2. Leaves should recover within a few hours to a day
3. If drooping returns quickly, shorten the gap between waterings
Cold air

Cold drafts below 60°F cause rapid tissue damage in Chinese Evergreen's tropical foliage. The plant droops suddenly and the affected leaves may also yellow or develop water-soaked patches within a day or two of exposure. If the soil is not dry but the plant is drooping, cold is the first thing to check.

1. Move the plant away from vents, cold glass, and any source of cold air
2. Keep it in a stable spot above 60°F
3. Damaged leaves will not recover. Remove them once they are clearly dead and let the plant push new growth

Faded variegation

Too little light

Chinese Evergreen is marketed as a low-light plant, but the pink, red, and silver varieties need more light than the plain green ones to keep their color. In dim conditions the new leaves come in duller and greener as the plant prioritizes chlorophyll production over pigmentation. The effect is gradual and most visible on new growth.

1. Move the plant to a brighter spot with indirect light
2. Pink and red cultivars do best in medium to bright indirect light
3. Existing faded leaves will not regain color, but new growth should come in more vivid once light improves
Direct sun bleaching

In direct sun, Chinese Evergreen's patterned leaves lose contrast as the pigment breaks down. The variegated areas wash out to a pale, bleached look and the leaf surface may feel dry or slightly papery. This is the opposite problem from dim light but it affects the color the same way.

1. Move the plant out of direct sun to a bright spot with filtered or indirect light
2. Bleached leaves will not recover their pattern
3. New growth should come in with better contrast once light intensity drops

Pests

Spider mites

Fine webbing on leaf undersides and pale stippling on the upper surface are the main signs. Chinese Evergreen's broad, slightly waxy leaves can hide an early infestation until webbing appears along the midrib. Dry indoor air in winter is the trigger, and the dense leaf canopy gives mites shelter to multiply.

1. Rinse the plant under a strong shower to knock mites off the leaves
2. Wipe both sides of every leaf with insecticidal soap or 70% isopropyl on a cloth
3. Repeat every three to four days for two weeks
4. Raise local humidity above 50%, since mites struggle in moist air
Mealybugs

White cottony masses in the joints where leaf stems meet the main cane. Mealybugs are attracted to the soft, moist leaf axils that Chinese Evergreen produces and hide deep in the crown where casual inspection misses them. They suck sap and leave sticky honeydew that trails down the stem.

1. Dab each cottony mass with a cotton swab soaked in 70% isopropyl alcohol
2. Spray the whole plant with insecticidal soap, working into every leaf axil
3. Repeat every five to seven days for three weeks to catch newly hatched crawlers

Preventing Chinese Evergreen Problems

A few consistent habits prevent most of what goes wrong with Chinese Evergreen.
Weekly Check
1
Water when the top two inches of soil are dry.
Chinese Evergreen roots are prone to rot in waterlogged soil. Waiting until the top two inches dry out before each watering prevents overwatering without letting the plant get thirsty enough to droop.
2
Keep it above 60°F and away from cold drafts.
Cold air from vents, windows, or exterior doors causes sudden drooping and yellowing faster than almost any other problem. A stable, warm spot away from air conditioning and cold glass prevents most cold-shock symptoms.
3
Use filtered or rainwater, not straight tap water.
Chinese Evergreen is sensitive to fluoride and mineral salts in tap water. Filtered water or tap water left out overnight reduces the buildup that causes brown tips over time.
4
Keep humidity at 40% or higher.
Dry air causes brown tips and makes spider mite outbreaks far more likely. A small humidifier nearby or grouping with other plants addresses both at once.
5
Match light to the cultivar.
Green varieties tolerate low light well, but pink, red, and silver cultivars need bright indirect light to hold their color. Placing them too far from a window leads to faded, washed-out leaves over several months.
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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Every problem and fix in this article was verified against Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with USDA hardiness zone data and published horticultural research from the Missouri Botanical Garden, university extension programs, and species-specific literature. The Aglaonema commutatum care profile reflects documented species behavior combined with years of community grower feedback in Greg.
23,529+ Greg users growing this plant
USDA hardiness zones 10a–12b