Common Snapdragon

What's Eating Your Snapdragon?

Antirrhinum majus
Reviewed by Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Quick Answer

For snapdragons, the most likely culprits are aphids clustering on flower spikes and tender new growth, and spider mites in hot dry summer weather when the plant is already stressed by heat. Thrips scar the inside of the dragon-mouth petals and leave silvery streaks on opened blooms.

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What does the damage look like?

Tap the closest match to jump straight to the fix.

Pests, ranked by impact

Spider mite infestation on a stem with fine silk webbing and pale speckled leaf damage

Spider mites

Damage
High
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Almost invisible without a hand lens. Pale yellow to red specks on the underside of the lance-shaped leaves and clustered around the base of the flower spike. Hot dry summer weather, which snapdragons already hate, triggers a population boom in days.

What the damage looks like

Tiny pale yellow dots across the upper leaf surface, then bronze patches that spread along the central vein. Fine webbing strung between the opposite leaves and around the flower spike in heavy infestations. Heat-stressed snapdragons defoliate fast under mite pressure and stop producing new buds.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Shower the foliage every 3 days for 2 weeks

Aim a hose nozzle 12 inches from the plant and spray the underside of every leaf and around the flower spike for 30 seconds. Mites can't reattach quickly when knocked off, and the cooling rinse helps the heat-stressed plant. Snapdragons tolerate a hard rinse well. Repeat every 3 days for 2 weeks.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap at dusk, every 5 days for 3 rounds

1

Use ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Brand, ~$10) at dusk to avoid leaf burn in the heat.

2

Spray the underside of every lance-shaped leaf and the base of each flower spike where mites congregate.

3

Repeat every 5 days for 3 rounds. That covers the full egg-to-adult cycle in summer heat.

Option 3

Move the plant to afternoon shade and mulch the root zone

Snapdragons are cool-season annuals and decline in summer heat. A heat-stressed plant cannot fight off mites. Move container snapdragons to morning sun and afternoon shade. Mulch in-ground plantings 2 inches deep to keep the root zone cool. The plant rebounds and the mite population crashes when the host stops being stressed.

Dense colony of aphids clustered on a plant stem

Aphids

Damage
Medium
Removal
Easy
What it looks like

Tiny pear-shaped insects 1 to 3 mm long, in shades of green, pink, or black. Cluster densely on the soft top inches of the flower spike, on the unopened buds, and on the tender new growth above the basal rosette. Spring and early summer are peak aphid season.

What the damage looks like

The top of the flower spike curls and distorts as aphids drain sap from the unopened buds. A sticky shiny film coats the developing dragon-mouth blooms and the leaves below. Black sooty mold grows on the residue. Heavy infestations cause buds to abort before the spike opens, costing the season's bloom.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Strong water blast every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks

Hold a hose nozzle 12 inches from the affected flower spike and spray at high pressure. Most aphids dislodge and don't make it back to the plant. Repeat every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks. The fastest, cheapest fix and works without chemicals that could damage the developing buds.

Option 2

Insecticidal soap on flower spikes, every 5 days for 2 weeks

Spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap (Safer Brand, ~$10) on the top of every flower spike and along the tender new growth at dusk. The soap kills on contact and breaks down within hours, so it's safe around bees that visit the open dragon-mouth blooms during the day.

Option 3

Plant alyssum or dill within 3 feet

Alyssum, dill, and yarrow attract ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on aphids. Established companion plantings keep aphid pressure on snapdragons low through the bloom season without sprays. Works especially well in mixed cottage-garden beds where snapdragons are planted in groups.

Slender adult thrips (Frankliniella sp.) on a flower petal

Thrips

Damage
Medium
Removal
Moderate
What it looks like

Slender yellow to dark brown insects under 2 mm long. Hide deep inside the dragon-mouth flowers, between the bilateral petals and around the reproductive parts. Pinch a fading bloom open and tap it over white paper. Thrips drop and run as fast-moving slivers.

What the damage looks like

Silvery or bronzed streaks on the inside of the open dragon-mouth petals. The petal edges look papery or scarred. Heavy infestations cause buds to open with brown patches or fail to open fully. Snapdragons grown for cut flowers lose vase quality fast under thrip pressure.

How to get rid of them
Option 1

Blue sticky traps at flower-spike height

Hang blue sticky traps (Stikem or Trappify, ~$10 for a pack) at the height of the flower spikes, one trap per 3 to 4 plants. Thrips are drawn to blue more than yellow. The traps cut the breeding population and confirm whether thrips are still active week to week.

Option 2

Spinosad spray on opening buds, every 7 days for 3 weeks

1

Mix spinosad concentrate (Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew or Monterey Garden Insect Spray, ~$15) per label.

2

Spray buds just before they open and the inside of newly opened blooms at dusk, when thrips and bees are least active.

3

Repeat every 7 days for 3 weeks. Spinosad reaches thrips hidden inside the dragon-mouth and is safer for pollinators when applied at dusk.

Option 3

Deadhead spent blooms before they collapse

Thrips finish their life cycle inside fading flowers and drop to the soil to pupate. Pinch off spent dragon-mouth blooms weekly and bag them for the trash, not the compost. This breaks the cycle and keeps the plant pushing fresh spikes through the cool season.

Stay ahead of all of them

Four habits that keep snapdragon pests rare and easy to catch.
1

Spike and underleaf check, every Sunday

Aphids cluster on the top inches of the flower spike, mites hide on the underside of the lance-shaped leaves, and thrips hide inside the open dragon-mouth blooms. A weekly 30-second scan of all three spots catches colonies while they're still local to one plant.

2

Plant in cool weather and time the season right

Snapdragons bloom best at 60 to 70 F and decline in summer heat. Plant in early spring or fall in warm climates. A vigorous cool-season plant shrugs off pest pressure that would defoliate a heat-stressed plant in August.

3

Space plants 8 to 12 inches apart for airflow

Crowded snapdragons trap humidity around the basal rosette and create a still-air pocket where aphids and mites breed. Proper spacing keeps a breeze moving through the bed and lets sun reach the lower opposite leaves where pests start colonies.

4

Deadhead spent spikes weekly through the bloom season

Thrips finish their life cycle inside fading dragon-mouth blooms. Aphids move to soft new buds. Pinching off spent flower spikes weekly removes both pest reservoirs and triggers the plant to push fresh spikes for a longer bloom window.

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About This Article

Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Kiersten Rankel M.S.
Botanical Data Lead at Greg · Plant Scientist
About the Author
Kiersten Rankel holds an M.S. in Ecology & Evolutionary Biology from Tulane University. A certified Louisiana Master Naturalist, she has over a decade of experience in science communication, with research spanning corals, cypress trees, marsh grasses, and more. At Greg, she curates species data and verifies care recommendations against botanical research.
See Kiersten Rankel's full background on LinkedIn.
Editorial Process
Pest identification and treatment guidance verified against Antirrhinum majus field reports from Greg's botanical database, cross-referenced with university extension sources and published horticultural research.