Hoya with browning 🌿😳
So one of my hoyas have this browning on the underside of the leaves, anyone knows what it is? 😭🌿
It has started yellowing the leaves and they are dying 🍃
#hoya #hoyahangout #hoyaheads #happyplants #plantsmakepeoplehappy #plantaddict
It has started yellowing the leaves and they are dying 🍃
#hoya #hoyahangout #hoyaheads #happyplants #plantsmakepeoplehappy #plantaddict
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I’m gonna round up a few I think may help … I have no clue .. @TheConservator @TheOddAsity @MusicalRedmint @GaryPoopins
Hi @SuperbRaspfern Shannon 💗would you know what is causing @Linx Hoya leaves to brown like that? She also said they are starting to yellow and die
@Linx what type of Hoya is it? Some Hoya need more water, some need less, that’s why I am asking. Those brown spots can indicate an airflow issue when there’s a lot of humidity coming off the pot. But what type of substrate is it in? That looks like pon? Yellowing leaves indicates too much water or too much sun. I had yellowing happening with 2 Hoya last week. One had large chunk of bark in the roots that had absorbed a lot of water acting like a sponge. So that case was “overwater“ as Hoya are epiphytes and need to breathe. The other Hoya, the roots had grown to the top of the pot and I didn’t see it under the leaves, so in that case it thought it was dying with too much sun 😂
I have a few in pon, they do well when they’re the type that need more moisture (krohniana). I had some in it that I had to remove because they wanted to dry out between waterings.
I have a few in pon, they do well when they’re the type that need more moisture (krohniana). I had some in it that I had to remove because they wanted to dry out between waterings.
I'm not sure either. However, additionally to the others' great advice from the looks of it, I would always like to rule out pests as well. I know the spots look more protruding and not only grazed on, but I have not yet seen mite damage on older leaves in person, so I don't know if it can callous over like that, especially when sap is involved. And I know that the nodes and petioles of leaves can look calloused over like that from them.
Just out of an abundance of caution and my hate deep-seated hate for pests (and the knowledge that hoya are very prone to mites) I would take a closer look at new leaves and especially at new nodes. How do they look? Wooden? Gnarly in any way? Then a very good magnifying glass could be a next step. And if not, at least you know and could concentrate on fungal or watering issues.
Good luck
Just out of an abundance of caution and my hate deep-seated hate for pests (and the knowledge that hoya are very prone to mites) I would take a closer look at new leaves and especially at new nodes. How do they look? Wooden? Gnarly in any way? Then a very good magnifying glass could be a next step. And if not, at least you know and could concentrate on fungal or watering issues.
Good luck
This article describes what I mean in more detail: https://anaturalcuriosity.org/flat-mites/ .
And though I don't remember the damage on the back of the leaves like this, this does awfully look like some of the damage on the petioles and stems that I saw with my last broad mites (on my very few hoyas that i had at that time). And like what is described in the article about flat mite damage:
"- Scarring where the leaf meets the petiole (looks like crusty, brown formation)
- Scarring on the backs of the leaves (looks like crusty, brown formation)
- Plants that aren’t growing and haven’t grown for a long time
- Nubby growth where nodes are close together, kind of thick and ugly
- Plants may produce vines but never end up producing leaves
- It is common for some hoyas to produce long vines before growing leaves on the vines, but if it has been six months or longer and the plant still hasn’t produced any leaves on the vine, it might indicate an issue.
- New leaves drop with seemingly no reason"
And though I don't remember the damage on the back of the leaves like this, this does awfully look like some of the damage on the petioles and stems that I saw with my last broad mites (on my very few hoyas that i had at that time). And like what is described in the article about flat mite damage:
"- Scarring where the leaf meets the petiole (looks like crusty, brown formation)
- Scarring on the backs of the leaves (looks like crusty, brown formation)
- Plants that aren’t growing and haven’t grown for a long time
- Nubby growth where nodes are close together, kind of thick and ugly
- Plants may produce vines but never end up producing leaves
- It is common for some hoyas to produce long vines before growing leaves on the vines, but if it has been six months or longer and the plant still hasn’t produced any leaves on the vine, it might indicate an issue.
- New leaves drop with seemingly no reason"
@TheOddAsity she is a hoya crassipetiolata splash, and she does stand in pon and lives in a west facing window, so maybe it is just too much sun? 🤔🌿
The roots look very good on her, but maybe I need a plastic container for the pon with more airflow?
The one she is in only has holes at the bottom, but maybe I need to make more holes for ventilation 🤔🌿
Or maybe she is more rootbound than it looks?? 🤔 🪴✨️
So many questions 🤣🤣🤣
@TheConservator the algea is purely because there is sunlight directly on the pon at the top ☺️✨️
@MusicalRedmint the new nodes and leaves look really good and nothing abnormal I would say 🤔🪴
The roots look very good on her, but maybe I need a plastic container for the pon with more airflow?
The one she is in only has holes at the bottom, but maybe I need to make more holes for ventilation 🤔🌿
Or maybe she is more rootbound than it looks?? 🤔 🪴✨️
So many questions 🤣🤣🤣
@TheConservator the algea is purely because there is sunlight directly on the pon at the top ☺️✨️
@MusicalRedmint the new nodes and leaves look really good and nothing abnormal I would say 🤔🪴
I really know nothing about growing in pon. Ive just never really seen the benefit of it myself. But different things work for different people no doubt! That being said, is it nirmal for pon grown plants roots to sit in water? I use to grow weed in lecca 15-20 yrs ago and i know it had huge issues with roots sitting in water unless yoh had airstones in the buckets
@TheConservator I have the big majority of all my plants in pon, and those all end up with roots in the water reservoir over time ✨️🌿
I really just dislike soil as a substrate because I find it messy, plus it can't be reused like the pon can 🤭✨️
I do clean out the containers, change their water and flush them frequently, but as I'm so bad at remembering to water my plants and I love to not have to worry when going on vacation or being very busy for a week, then I know the plants will be fine 😅🪴✨️
I have had basically all my calatheas and peperomias in pon for over half a year now without any problems, and this is the first problem I encounter with any of the hoyas in pon 🤔🌿
I really just dislike soil as a substrate because I find it messy, plus it can't be reused like the pon can 🤭✨️
I do clean out the containers, change their water and flush them frequently, but as I'm so bad at remembering to water my plants and I love to not have to worry when going on vacation or being very busy for a week, then I know the plants will be fine 😅🪴✨️
I have had basically all my calatheas and peperomias in pon for over half a year now without any problems, and this is the first problem I encounter with any of the hoyas in pon 🤔🌿
The roots look great. As does the rest. I've been looking at my old affected plants for examples and couldn't find the nodes with the problem. Maybe I cut and propped them. But I'm any case, ifyou say the new growths look fine and it grows at a normal pace, I doubt it's pests, since the newest growths are the most accessible and the most delicious 😀. That's great. Then maybe you can focus on watering? My in any case limited experience ends at this point 😉 good luck. @TheConservator those roots are totally normal. The Youtube creator basiesplants has gone through an extensive pon plants with a big part of his big collection. Those roots seem to love to reach down into the reservoir. As long as it dries out from time to time and the reservoir water is relatively clean, there should be no issue.
At least not if the water is not very infrequent? I could imagine (source: "entirely made up stuff in my head by gut feeling" 😅) that of you let it dry out too much and then the roots have continuous access like that, maybe the oedema problem that's relatively common with some hoyas might be even bigger? Maybe there just was a lot of cell damage from oedema, sap exuded and calloused over like this? Again, not funded in any experience (except for with "normal" oedema) or research, just plain spitballing stream-of-consciousness style
At least not if the water is not very infrequent? I could imagine (source: "entirely made up stuff in my head by gut feeling" 😅) that of you let it dry out too much and then the roots have continuous access like that, maybe the oedema problem that's relatively common with some hoyas might be even bigger? Maybe there just was a lot of cell damage from oedema, sap exuded and calloused over like this? Again, not funded in any experience (except for with "normal" oedema) or research, just plain spitballing stream-of-consciousness style
@Linx 😅 only saw your answer after posting. That sounds great. And I have that same soil problem 😅 it's just that I would hate to have to prepare the pon for my orchids (and hoyas?) just as much. I'm terribly lazy.
As for hoyas in pon generally, I've seen it done successfully over extended time by several bigger growers. But of course it could be just a species specific thing, like April mentioned. Not all hoyas have the same watering and soil needs, so maybe it's that?
As for hoyas in pon generally, I've seen it done successfully over extended time by several bigger growers. But of course it could be just a species specific thing, like April mentioned. Not all hoyas have the same watering and soil needs, so maybe it's that?
@MusicalRedmint well, I'm gonna treat for flatmites when I can get sulphur ordered, just to be on the safe side, as I do not wanna take chances with my entire plant collection 😬✨️🌿🍃
It is the only plant affected, and I guess it's gonna go for a quarantine until I can get it treated together with all it's neighbours... 😅✨️
If it can't accept living in pon.. then it doesn't really matter how much I love it, it's gotta go 😭
It did grow like crazy this summer but has stopped when we hit winter, as has pretty much all my other hoyas too, or at least they grow awfully slow 🐌 🌿
It has taken forever to move them all to pon, but I do enjoy the process immensely! 🤣
It is the only plant affected, and I guess it's gonna go for a quarantine until I can get it treated together with all it's neighbours... 😅✨️
If it can't accept living in pon.. then it doesn't really matter how much I love it, it's gotta go 😭
It did grow like crazy this summer but has stopped when we hit winter, as has pretty much all my other hoyas too, or at least they grow awfully slow 🐌 🌿
It has taken forever to move them all to pon, but I do enjoy the process immensely! 🤣
They look great. I do like live moss with some plants that can stomach it, as well. Even some orchids and I was going to try a hoya as well soon. Because it's alive the pathogen and suffocation issue is way lower even though it had to stay wet a lot. It's way better than soil, but if course, still needs (just a bit) more general care than pon. I even have one mini dendrobium in a kind of self watering setup, kind of like my CPs. It works (and looks) great. And no soil and dirt and frequent repots😅 and - with my little sphag boxes an almost endless supply with next to no cost.
I'm sorry I stressed you out about the mites. It's just what I always look out for first because of my own fears, if it could even remotely be connected to pests. Again, if the new growths look fine, and that slower growth is just like the others in winter, I'd say it's not that. Also, if those spots appeared rapidly like that recently, it's even more unlikely. Flat and broad mites can survive winters inside, but the real population explosion (and thus damage like that) would happen in warm temperatures that shorten the life cycles considerably (unless you have high humidity and temperatures above 70F in the room it's in?).
If the damage occurred very suddenly, I would still say edema as a guy feeling, if a bit slower, maybe some disease or pathogen.
If I created to much unease, I downloaded a magnifying app on my phone that did a pretty good job. Or simply using the "macro" setting for photos, if your phone is not very old.
Alternatively you can get a cheap jewelers loupe for more clarity. They like to hide everywhere, and run around in the substrate as well. If your humidity isn't very high (they like 60%+), looking there is your best bet even, because they retreat to where they don't dry out. Otherwise they like to nest under the leaves. Some broadmites can even be seen with the naked eye as well.
Oh. And I tried *a lot* to get rid of them. (Not sulfur though, because I was afraid for my orchids). The thing that I'm the end for roots of them completely (and even protects me from future invasions of all kinds of harmful mites) were beneficial mites. Those need reasonably high humidity as well, though. At least to hunt everywhere effectively. I still see the occasional predator mite crawling around, when I look closely. And in spite of my above average with creepy crawlies in general, I love them too bits and cheer them on when I do 😀
I'm sorry I stressed you out about the mites. It's just what I always look out for first because of my own fears, if it could even remotely be connected to pests. Again, if the new growths look fine, and that slower growth is just like the others in winter, I'd say it's not that. Also, if those spots appeared rapidly like that recently, it's even more unlikely. Flat and broad mites can survive winters inside, but the real population explosion (and thus damage like that) would happen in warm temperatures that shorten the life cycles considerably (unless you have high humidity and temperatures above 70F in the room it's in?).
If the damage occurred very suddenly, I would still say edema as a guy feeling, if a bit slower, maybe some disease or pathogen.
If I created to much unease, I downloaded a magnifying app on my phone that did a pretty good job. Or simply using the "macro" setting for photos, if your phone is not very old.
Alternatively you can get a cheap jewelers loupe for more clarity. They like to hide everywhere, and run around in the substrate as well. If your humidity isn't very high (they like 60%+), looking there is your best bet even, because they retreat to where they don't dry out. Otherwise they like to nest under the leaves. Some broadmites can even be seen with the naked eye as well.
Oh. And I tried *a lot* to get rid of them. (Not sulfur though, because I was afraid for my orchids). The thing that I'm the end for roots of them completely (and even protects me from future invasions of all kinds of harmful mites) were beneficial mites. Those need reasonably high humidity as well, though. At least to hunt everywhere effectively. I still see the occasional predator mite crawling around, when I look closely. And in spite of my above average with creepy crawlies in general, I love them too bits and cheer them on when I do 😀
@Linx I have the regular crassiopetiolata and I have noticed this one is a “drier” Hoya. It likes to be completely dry between waterings. (At least where I live). These leaves have taken a bit to recover from where I purchased it from as they had it in a soggy substrate, and it took me a bit to learn the leaves didn’t perk up the way they are now until it was allowed to dry out. Having said that… I am wondering if the roots having grown down into the water are doing that to the leaves. If the roots above have even moisture but the ones below are in water, is it confusing the plant?
The only time I have seen that brown look under leaves is when it needs more airflow around the leaves, not necessarily a fan, but if it is clustered around other plants it might need distance to diffuse the humidity? I have seen Hoya burtoniae do this in soil that is too moist, the humidity kind of injures them and the milky fluid crusts over and the anthocyanin that heals the leaf turns brown (that’s what creates the sun stress in their leaves). I don’t think the west window is a problem for your Hoya, in my opinion.
The only time I have seen that brown look under leaves is when it needs more airflow around the leaves, not necessarily a fan, but if it is clustered around other plants it might need distance to diffuse the humidity? I have seen Hoya burtoniae do this in soil that is too moist, the humidity kind of injures them and the milky fluid crusts over and the anthocyanin that heals the leaf turns brown (that’s what creates the sun stress in their leaves). I don’t think the west window is a problem for your Hoya, in my opinion.
Well, I just now do this so I'm late to the convo. But I'll add my 2 cents.
I believe at least I'm. 99% sure. Hoya Edema. This is caused by overwatering, when I read your post you said it was overwatered when you purchased it. Now I have no idea how long you've had it. But this is what happens to cause it.
A Hoya is a semi succulent that simply means it hold water in its leaves. When too much water is absorbed the plant cells the will burst within the leaf causing damage and scarring.
In the beginning it won't look like much but over time it forms scarring which is why it appears sort of like a crust on their leaves.
Like us when we get hurt. We will form a bruise and if its bad enough a scab. The scab then takes a while to heal leading to a scar and the scar lasts forever but sometimes it will fade with time.
Your Hoya also has a scab the whole process will be evolving and changing. So the appearance will always be morphing until it is fully healed. Now the whole healing process is long and can take 6 months to a year to be complete. But she is doing what needs to be done to heal herself and once again be strong and beautiful.
So, since the damage is already done there is nothing you can do to help her along. She has an innate way of healing herself on her own.
It sounds like you are already taking steps to prevent ongoing damage with is great. In the meantime you'll just have to accept her flaws and blemishes for what they are scars. Something that tells a story of her previous life and what she has been through and overcome! ❤️
@Linx @TheConservator @MusicalRedmint @OrangeGrass @TheOddAsity @Hoyaobsessed @Sassylimey @GaryPoopins
I believe at least I'm. 99% sure. Hoya Edema. This is caused by overwatering, when I read your post you said it was overwatered when you purchased it. Now I have no idea how long you've had it. But this is what happens to cause it.
A Hoya is a semi succulent that simply means it hold water in its leaves. When too much water is absorbed the plant cells the will burst within the leaf causing damage and scarring.
In the beginning it won't look like much but over time it forms scarring which is why it appears sort of like a crust on their leaves.
Like us when we get hurt. We will form a bruise and if its bad enough a scab. The scab then takes a while to heal leading to a scar and the scar lasts forever but sometimes it will fade with time.
Your Hoya also has a scab the whole process will be evolving and changing. So the appearance will always be morphing until it is fully healed. Now the whole healing process is long and can take 6 months to a year to be complete. But she is doing what needs to be done to heal herself and once again be strong and beautiful.
So, since the damage is already done there is nothing you can do to help her along. She has an innate way of healing herself on her own.
It sounds like you are already taking steps to prevent ongoing damage with is great. In the meantime you'll just have to accept her flaws and blemishes for what they are scars. Something that tells a story of her previous life and what she has been through and overcome! ❤️
@Linx @TheConservator @MusicalRedmint @OrangeGrass @TheOddAsity @Hoyaobsessed @Sassylimey @GaryPoopins
I’m honestly the last person who should weigh in on ID-ing the root cause of a sick plant - I don’t know that I’ve ever got it “right” and it’s always an educated guess at best.
That being said, this does look like it MIGHT be fungal like others have said, but that’s just my best guess. I’d treat for fungal and quarantine to see how it responds.
The algae isn’t concerning to me. That’s normal up top with good lighting and constantly damp medium.
As for pon vs soil - I have almost all of my hoyas in pon and I will never go back. Saw a few people mention there’s no clear upside to it, but I respectfully couldn’t disagree with that more:
- save a ton of money in the long run. You can reuse the stuff over and over.
- Any issues with fungal gnats and other pests have virtually disappeared since I started switching. I only see these pests in my specimens still in soil or coir or moss.
- pon allows me to do less - I water all of my pon hoyas at the same time and only once every 2 - 3 weeks regardless of the planter size (they are thriving)
- Being able to water but once every 2 - 3 weeks means I can take a holiday whenever I want without worrying in the least.
It isn’t for everyone, but I do find it to be such a better option for me personally than most other mediums.
That being said, this does look like it MIGHT be fungal like others have said, but that’s just my best guess. I’d treat for fungal and quarantine to see how it responds.
The algae isn’t concerning to me. That’s normal up top with good lighting and constantly damp medium.
As for pon vs soil - I have almost all of my hoyas in pon and I will never go back. Saw a few people mention there’s no clear upside to it, but I respectfully couldn’t disagree with that more:
- save a ton of money in the long run. You can reuse the stuff over and over.
- Any issues with fungal gnats and other pests have virtually disappeared since I started switching. I only see these pests in my specimens still in soil or coir or moss.
- pon allows me to do less - I water all of my pon hoyas at the same time and only once every 2 - 3 weeks regardless of the planter size (they are thriving)
- Being able to water but once every 2 - 3 weeks means I can take a holiday whenever I want without worrying in the least.
It isn’t for everyone, but I do find it to be such a better option for me personally than most other mediums.
@Linx - if helpful, I’ve got my crass in pon… west facing window with grow lights above as well… ventilation slots/holes only on the bottom and not sides… it gets bright indirect for sure and I keep the space around 55% humidity. Sounds similar to your setup and while I haven’t had the cutting but maybe 4 months or so, it has been thriving
@TheOddAsity I have the crassiopetiolata, too, in exactly the same setup, and that one has no issues 🤔✨️
The humidity here is definitely not very high as it is winter, I think the home might be hovering around the 40% because of the radiators.
I will let it dry out completely between waterings and only leave it with a small reservoir.
I am gonna treat for flatmites if I can find sulfur that ships to me 😅✨️
But thank you so much for your input! I'll try and change some things and see if it might get happier somehow 😅✨️
The humidity here is definitely not very high as it is winter, I think the home might be hovering around the 40% because of the radiators.
I will let it dry out completely between waterings and only leave it with a small reservoir.
I am gonna treat for flatmites if I can find sulfur that ships to me 😅✨️
But thank you so much for your input! I'll try and change some things and see if it might get happier somehow 😅✨️
I rarely think sun damage with hoyas inside tbh. Outside sure but it takes alot to damage most hoyas coming yhrough glass! Maybecif its south facong and gets sun literally all day with no obstruction. But even a few breaks in the sun here snd there, usually thats enough to keep mine from damage anyway🤷♂️. But i will say i have storm windows so the sun oasses through 2 panes on all my windows
@GaryPoopins oh I couldn't agree with you more about pon! It makes it possible to water them all and clean out containers on a schedule, and I love it 😅✨️
How does one go about treating for fungal stuff on plants? I have never had a fungal issue, as far as I know so I don't have a plan for how to treat it, like I do have treatment for spider mites, gnats, mealies and thrips just ready to use 😅
When I'm trying to remember.. the plant has been getting more and more brown like the pictures over quite a while, but I have put it aside as i thought it was just damage due to sun 🤔✨️
I have springtails in most of my pon to eat most of the algea and other stuff because I'm a big fan of glass containers 😅✨️
How does one go about treating for fungal stuff on plants? I have never had a fungal issue, as far as I know so I don't have a plan for how to treat it, like I do have treatment for spider mites, gnats, mealies and thrips just ready to use 😅
When I'm trying to remember.. the plant has been getting more and more brown like the pictures over quite a while, but I have put it aside as i thought it was just damage due to sun 🤔✨️
I have springtails in most of my pon to eat most of the algea and other stuff because I'm a big fan of glass containers 😅✨️
@Linx I personally have used both Bonide and Arbor sprays for fungal concerns without issue, but for stuff like that I always read up on the latest studies/etc before I treat my plants. Someone else mentioned springtails, which are great for controlling stuff like that, but it’s certainly more of a commitment than a spray, longterm. Pluses and deltas for each, I suppose.
@GaryPoopins , yeah, I have springtails in my pon 😅
Okay, I will try and do some research on what to use and what I'm able to get a hold of where I live! Thank you so much for the amazing inputs and sharing how you take care of your hoyas 🥳
I LOVE pon, and I'm never going back! It's easy and reusable, and it doesn't really make a mess 😅
Okay, I will try and do some research on what to use and what I'm able to get a hold of where I live! Thank you so much for the amazing inputs and sharing how you take care of your hoyas 🥳
I LOVE pon, and I'm never going back! It's easy and reusable, and it doesn't really make a mess 😅
@TheConservator Oooo! My biggest hoya is also a pubicalyx splash 🥳✨️ mine has grown insanely over the summer, she was working on about 6 leaves at any given time 😅✨️
@Linx It sounds like you have got really good tips here, and I just wanted to add that the info here about flat mites has been eye opening and caused me to do more research and I found a very helpful article with good pictures and I will post the link below. I have definitely had edema of Hoya leaves before and this looks different, because the scaring is outside the surface of the leaves not inside. This article talks about the specific scarring or corking that occurs on the under side of leaves and now I’m worried that I may have over looked this damage on some plants in my home!!! This article is from a site that sells beneficial mites. I have NO experience with beneficial mites! I’m wondering if anyone else is familiar with this specific type mentioned in the article. Now I wonder if I need some!!! https://dmvbeneficials.com/pests-predators/meet-the-pests/flat-mites-2/
@nellz4estfairyz aaah. Down the more rabbit hole you go. I have the article a (very) rough read to see which they mentioned. Are you talking about the californicus mites? Those are the ones I used *against broad mites*. Amblyseius Californicus are terrific if you have the right conditions. However, they need the same conditions to thrive as the flat and broad mites need. If it's too cold, their growth cycles are quite long, so the population growth might be too slow for an established colony of your problem pests (if you get too few). and if your humidity is too low (which most of the time it isn't, if you are in the midst of a huge flat/broad mite outbreak, though), they also retreat towards the more humid soil and won't spread out along the collection.
In case of a bigger infestation, my seller recommended repeat treatment after 3 weeks, which I personally didn't do. I did reorder a few after a few months, though. Just because I wanted to be sure and they are great at prevention. They are still around and thriving. In the absence of their prey, they eat pollen. They are advertised against broad mites, flat mites, and even thrips (they eat the larvae). I'm suspecting, though, given the size of the remaining populating and their choice of plants and my lack of pollen, that they also snack on dew and springtails in the meantime.
As for your mite worries, telltale signs on thinner- leaved plants (apart from direct feeding damage and scarring) are twisted leaves because of some chemical they use. As far as I know, that goes for both flat and broad mites (they just twist in different directions 😉)
If you are worried, you can post pictures. I've had them in a bad way and have seen lots of damage. Most on my orchids, but still, maybe I could take a look.
As for the "protuding" oedema, I've had both. Those sunken in wounds and those that scar over like this. Maybe it depends on the plant or the amount of sap they release. The main difference to mite damage (at least in my case) was where the damage occurred. In high humidity, they tend to go for fresher leaves and new growths. the nodes of my sp.aff. thomsonii looked ridiculous, almost cancerous at one point. If they go for the older ones as well, it's the petioles and undersides.
In lower humidity, they are wherever it's more humid. They almost destroyed my one mini cattleya, an extremely vigorous one, because they ate the new pseudobulb and emerging roots a lot further down than I suspected and his very well between the bulbs and roots.
I just can say that my experience was great with them. I know my huge hoya shop uses them as well and has similar experiences. And even my smaller hoya grower in the city is a fan and regularly buys them as a preventative measure (which I learned afterward). I even noticed them in the orchid section of one smaller garden store/ florist. So I'd say, if your humidity isn't below 45% or 50%, flat mites or no flat mites, go for it, even if it's only as prevention. I'm not going back 😀
In case of a bigger infestation, my seller recommended repeat treatment after 3 weeks, which I personally didn't do. I did reorder a few after a few months, though. Just because I wanted to be sure and they are great at prevention. They are still around and thriving. In the absence of their prey, they eat pollen. They are advertised against broad mites, flat mites, and even thrips (they eat the larvae). I'm suspecting, though, given the size of the remaining populating and their choice of plants and my lack of pollen, that they also snack on dew and springtails in the meantime.
As for your mite worries, telltale signs on thinner- leaved plants (apart from direct feeding damage and scarring) are twisted leaves because of some chemical they use. As far as I know, that goes for both flat and broad mites (they just twist in different directions 😉)
If you are worried, you can post pictures. I've had them in a bad way and have seen lots of damage. Most on my orchids, but still, maybe I could take a look.
As for the "protuding" oedema, I've had both. Those sunken in wounds and those that scar over like this. Maybe it depends on the plant or the amount of sap they release. The main difference to mite damage (at least in my case) was where the damage occurred. In high humidity, they tend to go for fresher leaves and new growths. the nodes of my sp.aff. thomsonii looked ridiculous, almost cancerous at one point. If they go for the older ones as well, it's the petioles and undersides.
In lower humidity, they are wherever it's more humid. They almost destroyed my one mini cattleya, an extremely vigorous one, because they ate the new pseudobulb and emerging roots a lot further down than I suspected and his very well between the bulbs and roots.
I just can say that my experience was great with them. I know my huge hoya shop uses them as well and has similar experiences. And even my smaller hoya grower in the city is a fan and regularly buys them as a preventative measure (which I learned afterward). I even noticed them in the orchid section of one smaller garden store/ florist. So I'd say, if your humidity isn't below 45% or 50%, flat mites or no flat mites, go for it, even if it's only as prevention. I'm not going back 😀
@nellz4estfairyz I found some old picture. They don't show best, what I mean with " twisted" leaves but to some extent at least. The phal leaves show a bit of what the they do. The edges (where the mites predominantly feed on orchids) curl downward (with broad mites at least) if the leaves aren't too stiff. If they aren't as pliable as the seedling anymore, you might have a deformation like with the stiffer bigger leaf. The fuzzy thomsonii shows the gnarly nodes that happens when the plant tries and tries and tries for new growth and is eaten away again and again. Hope that helps a bit. Not everything must be mites, but since that happened to me, I always check for them first.
