how to fix this? too much sun? not enough? :((
1ft to light, indirect
Last watered 1 month ago
15
In the meantime, just some general guidelines for Syngoniums...they don't like direct sun, too much can scorch their leaves. In nature they grow on forest floors and receive filtered light through the trees above. They also prefer higher humidity (60% or more), so if it's especially dry where you are a small humidifier might be helpful. As for watering, they don't like sitting in soggy soil, but if their soil stays dried out for too long it can cause wilting (similar to the leaf in the photo). I water mine when the top half of the soil is dry.
@StarryWildtea26 yes, the symptoms can be very similar, which is why advising to cut back on watering before knowing how often it's watered is a bit premature 😉
@plantpsychosis was it originally in soil? What was the reason for moving to water? While they can certainly survive in water alone, they won't thrive or grow the way they do in proper soil. They also prefer distilled water over tap water.
Are both leaves I circled the same plant/cutting or are they separate cuttings?
Are both leaves I circled the same plant/cutting or are they separate cuttings?
@LithesomeBaibua if you choose to keep plants in water long term, you'll need to add supplemental nutrients. Plants need nitrogen, phosphorus, etc, which water doesn't provide, so you need a water-soluble fertilizer. I personally use & love We The Wild liquid grow concentrate for all my plants. I've also heard good things about Liquid Dirt. I don't know much about hydroponics, but those folks know their sh*t when it comes to water growing lol. The hydroponics subreddit would be a good place to start if you want to really dive in 😉
If you decide to go the soil route, Syngoniums love a chunky, well draining mix. Not sure how much time/money you want to invest here, but I prefer mixing my own soil over straight-from-the-bag commercial mixes. Pests, fungal diseases, crappy ingredients like peat moss — all reasons I steer clear. My soil's base is coco chips and coco coir, you can get compressed blocks of both at any pet store's reptile department for cheap. Also important for any soil mix is perlite (the white styrofoamy stuff in most store bought soil mixes), which improves drainage. I prefer coco chips over bark because they dry out faster, and I prefer coco coir over peat moss because it's far more sustainable (peat moss is harvested from bogs that took thousands of years to form). I don't measure them out, but the approx proportions are 3 parts coco chips, 1 part coco coir, 1 part perlite. I'll also throw in a handful of horticultural charcoal or earthworm casings, but only if I have them on hand. I use this mix for pretty much all of my non-succulent plants. I only water when the soil is almost completely dry, and I add We The Wild liquid fertilizer every time I water (it's organic so no concerns about roots getting fertilizer burn).
Keep in mind that water roots aren't the same as soil roots. Water roots aren't as tough or resilient as soil roots because they don't have to work as hard to pull oxygen from the water. When moving a plant from water to soil, there's always a chance it won't survive the transition. I've found the longer a plant stays in water, the harder it is to transition to soil.
If you decide to go the soil route, Syngoniums love a chunky, well draining mix. Not sure how much time/money you want to invest here, but I prefer mixing my own soil over straight-from-the-bag commercial mixes. Pests, fungal diseases, crappy ingredients like peat moss — all reasons I steer clear. My soil's base is coco chips and coco coir, you can get compressed blocks of both at any pet store's reptile department for cheap. Also important for any soil mix is perlite (the white styrofoamy stuff in most store bought soil mixes), which improves drainage. I prefer coco chips over bark because they dry out faster, and I prefer coco coir over peat moss because it's far more sustainable (peat moss is harvested from bogs that took thousands of years to form). I don't measure them out, but the approx proportions are 3 parts coco chips, 1 part coco coir, 1 part perlite. I'll also throw in a handful of horticultural charcoal or earthworm casings, but only if I have them on hand. I use this mix for pretty much all of my non-succulent plants. I only water when the soil is almost completely dry, and I add We The Wild liquid fertilizer every time I water (it's organic so no concerns about roots getting fertilizer burn).
Keep in mind that water roots aren't the same as soil roots. Water roots aren't as tough or resilient as soil roots because they don't have to work as hard to pull oxygen from the water. When moving a plant from water to soil, there's always a chance it won't survive the transition. I've found the longer a plant stays in water, the harder it is to transition to soil.
@stephonicle this is absolutely amazing i couldn’t have asked for more advice or found it if i tried! you’re an absolute angel thank you so much🥰 i’m keen to dive right in i will be giving all your tips a go. can’t thank you enough seriously have answered so many of my questions and explained them in simple terms to help my understanding. thank you again 🙏🙏🙏
@plantpsychosis happy to help! If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask 🤗