My go to method for rooting Succulent #stemcutting propig...
⚠️ UPDATED ON: 1.7.23 #stemcuttingprops
More than half of my plants have come from stem cuttings #Aeonium, #Graptoveria #Graptopetalum #graptosedum #Pachyphytum, #Pachyveria, #Sedervia, #Sedum #echeveria #Kalanchoe #Crassula & more!
I've tried a lot of things (& made lots of mistakes) to get to this five-step process...
1⃣ Ideally you're cutting should be between 2-4 inches long with 2 sets of nodes for rooting, and 2 sets of leaves - this will be the quickest and easiest to root.
Cut the stem cleanly and evenly on the dialonal downwards using a pair of sharp sterile shears or scissors.
You can uncover nodes by removing bottom leaves from the cutting (more to propigate of its a species that leaf props!) 🌿
👀 I found a nifty graphic about stem cutting with details on this which you can see in one of my pics. 🙂
2️⃣ Next, I dust the end of the cutting in powdered Sulfur or cinnamon, depending on what I have on hand ... This is optional but I find that it adds a bit of insurance against infections and rot so I do it.
3️⃣ Place the cutting on a paper towel and put it somewhere shaded like under my deck chair or on a shelf with a cloth over it to avoid any direct sun.
Leave it to DRY anywhere from 2 days to a week depending on the type of plant and how big it is and how dry it was to begin with, the weather etc... You just want a nice hard callous on it. You might lose a leaf or two in this process but it's better to be sure that it's dry rather than wet it too early.
4️⃣ (Optional) after it's calloused over dust the end of the stem & any exposed nodes in ROOTONG HORMONE ...
In order for the powder to stick it needs be a little damp, so wet the stem & gently dip or roll the stem in the powder.
STEP 5 there's 2 Options! ✌🏽
5⃣ A: let the dry cutting rest on slightly damp soil and bright area out of direct sun until you see roots!
This can be achieved by missing the soil daily - but be sure not to wet the leaves (or stem) too much or they may rot.
Once you see a few nice roots you're ready to pot the plant and water about once a week or so depending on soil type used 😊
If the stem is longer than a stump you'll have to prop the floret up slightly and turn it every couple days to ensure the roots grow evenly around...
That's why for bigger stem cuttings, if I have a available spare pot on hand I like to use option B...
5⃣ B: Place the calloused cutting in a pot with clean soil that is slightly damp but not soaked.
Keep the plant in an area with ample bright light but NO direct sun (yet).
"Leaf the cutting be" 😄 in it's pot for anywhere from 3 to 10 days — (there is some moisture in the soil it will be okay!)
The timing of when to water for the 1st time depends on...
a) How big the stem is
b) How much water the leaves of the succulent holds
c) The last time you watered your plant before making the cutting/how long it was left to callous.
EXAMPLE: I'm waiting 7-9 days to water my big Graptopetalum Murasaki stem cutting ... but I'll probably only wait 3-4 Day to water the Sedum Clavatum. 😊
SUNLIGHT FOR ROOTING be sure to keep it out of direct sun until begun to root. Then introduce the new plant very slowly to more light slowly, increasing direct sun exposure by 30 mins every week or so. It will need increased light to grow strong roots!
New growth or movement of the leaves toward light means rooting!
💦 watering frequency:
I usually bottom water my potted stem cuttings every 5-10 days for the first month or so depending on the size of the cutting & the pot... then I start backing off to a more regular watering when I see new growth from the plant, as that means the roots are more established.
(The only exception is Aeoniums, which like their soil a little more damp than most succs.)
⚠️ Keep in mind for watering, that I use a VERY gritty mix for all my succulents with pumice/lava rock etc, mixed with a touch of Coco Coir. My potting mix is more rocks than soil.
I don't let them sit in dry 100% dry soil between watering as they don't have establish roots yet, so I check them often. It's okay for the bottom soil to still be damp before the next watering because they don't have long roots (YET)!
Try to water according to the Look of the leaves vs the soil being 100% dry.
Wrinkled, puckered leaves mean they need water! After about 2-3 months you'll notice you can reduce watering a more normal routine.
Let me know if you found any special tips and tricks or certain things that work better for different succulent varieties!
I love experimenting with new techniques! 😊 #plantnerd #plantaddict #succulentsquad #succulentlove #plantsmakepeoplehappy #propagationstation #babyplants #newgrowth #whatthesuccwednesday #greggang #greggers #murasaki #sedumclavatum
More than half of my plants have come from stem cuttings #Aeonium, #Graptoveria #Graptopetalum #graptosedum #Pachyphytum, #Pachyveria, #Sedervia, #Sedum #echeveria #Kalanchoe #Crassula & more!
I've tried a lot of things (& made lots of mistakes) to get to this five-step process...
1⃣ Ideally you're cutting should be between 2-4 inches long with 2 sets of nodes for rooting, and 2 sets of leaves - this will be the quickest and easiest to root.
Cut the stem cleanly and evenly on the dialonal downwards using a pair of sharp sterile shears or scissors.
You can uncover nodes by removing bottom leaves from the cutting (more to propigate of its a species that leaf props!) 🌿
👀 I found a nifty graphic about stem cutting with details on this which you can see in one of my pics. 🙂
2️⃣ Next, I dust the end of the cutting in powdered Sulfur or cinnamon, depending on what I have on hand ... This is optional but I find that it adds a bit of insurance against infections and rot so I do it.
3️⃣ Place the cutting on a paper towel and put it somewhere shaded like under my deck chair or on a shelf with a cloth over it to avoid any direct sun.
Leave it to DRY anywhere from 2 days to a week depending on the type of plant and how big it is and how dry it was to begin with, the weather etc... You just want a nice hard callous on it. You might lose a leaf or two in this process but it's better to be sure that it's dry rather than wet it too early.
4️⃣ (Optional) after it's calloused over dust the end of the stem & any exposed nodes in ROOTONG HORMONE ...
In order for the powder to stick it needs be a little damp, so wet the stem & gently dip or roll the stem in the powder.
STEP 5 there's 2 Options! ✌🏽
5⃣ A: let the dry cutting rest on slightly damp soil and bright area out of direct sun until you see roots!
This can be achieved by missing the soil daily - but be sure not to wet the leaves (or stem) too much or they may rot.
Once you see a few nice roots you're ready to pot the plant and water about once a week or so depending on soil type used 😊
If the stem is longer than a stump you'll have to prop the floret up slightly and turn it every couple days to ensure the roots grow evenly around...
That's why for bigger stem cuttings, if I have a available spare pot on hand I like to use option B...
5⃣ B: Place the calloused cutting in a pot with clean soil that is slightly damp but not soaked.
Keep the plant in an area with ample bright light but NO direct sun (yet).
"Leaf the cutting be" 😄 in it's pot for anywhere from 3 to 10 days — (there is some moisture in the soil it will be okay!)
The timing of when to water for the 1st time depends on...
a) How big the stem is
b) How much water the leaves of the succulent holds
c) The last time you watered your plant before making the cutting/how long it was left to callous.
EXAMPLE: I'm waiting 7-9 days to water my big Graptopetalum Murasaki stem cutting ... but I'll probably only wait 3-4 Day to water the Sedum Clavatum. 😊
SUNLIGHT FOR ROOTING be sure to keep it out of direct sun until begun to root. Then introduce the new plant very slowly to more light slowly, increasing direct sun exposure by 30 mins every week or so. It will need increased light to grow strong roots!
New growth or movement of the leaves toward light means rooting!
💦 watering frequency:
I usually bottom water my potted stem cuttings every 5-10 days for the first month or so depending on the size of the cutting & the pot... then I start backing off to a more regular watering when I see new growth from the plant, as that means the roots are more established.
(The only exception is Aeoniums, which like their soil a little more damp than most succs.)
⚠️ Keep in mind for watering, that I use a VERY gritty mix for all my succulents with pumice/lava rock etc, mixed with a touch of Coco Coir. My potting mix is more rocks than soil.
I don't let them sit in dry 100% dry soil between watering as they don't have establish roots yet, so I check them often. It's okay for the bottom soil to still be damp before the next watering because they don't have long roots (YET)!
Try to water according to the Look of the leaves vs the soil being 100% dry.
Wrinkled, puckered leaves mean they need water! After about 2-3 months you'll notice you can reduce watering a more normal routine.
Let me know if you found any special tips and tricks or certain things that work better for different succulent varieties!
I love experimenting with new techniques! 😊 #plantnerd #plantaddict #succulentsquad #succulentlove #plantsmakepeoplehappy #propagationstation #babyplants #newgrowth #whatthesuccwednesday #greggang #greggers #murasaki #sedumclavatum
21
I haven't done many stem cuttings from my succs, but they all came to me as cuttings. When I first got them I potted them in dry soil and waited a few days before watering. Then kept the soil moist but not wet until they took root. After that it was watering as normal. The stem cuttings I have done, I've dusted with cinnamon, let callous and then potted them up just as I did when I first got them. I've also experimented with prop boxes (with completely dry soil/perlite mix) and had some success there as well! This post is really helpful tho and I will definitely be using some of these tips in the future!! 🙃🖤
@WickedValkyrie thank you for sharing with me your experiments! 😊
I've heard cinnamon works much the same as sulfur - Mother Nature is so smart!
I've heard cinnamon works much the same as sulfur - Mother Nature is so smart!
@roxyvivien yes, I use peat moss that remains after I repotted new succulents that usually came potted in the peat moss.
@vvelo ahhh, I see. I don't work with peat moss but I do a very similar technique by making just the top 1/2 inch of the soil just coco coir and worm castings with no pumice so it holds moisture better for the little stem to find water and root. I'll typically wait to add any top dressing to the pot until the plants rooted unless I need some rocks to help hold the succulent upright lol
@KrunchyWrap Hmmm... don't you want the stem to dry quick so you can pot it without it rotting?
Have you tried cutting at the base of the rosette? I did that with all these guys and they rooted very well just placing them on top of damp soil and watering about once a week.
Have you tried cutting at the base of the rosette? I did that with all these guys and they rooted very well just placing them on top of damp soil and watering about once a week.
@roxyvivien well I've been trying to do more water propagating bc I have more success with it. I've been having more luck ejth the soil prop but not as much. They end up rotting without me ever giving them water.
@KrunchyWrap I have the opposite results! Water props never worked out for me lol 😅 Every environment is different tho, continual experimenting to find your best methods is key! 😁🗝️💚🌱
@TubularBanana - that can mean a few different things depending on what it looks like watering, habits, soil, pot type, light, Etc...
Post your question with pics of the plant and attach the plant profile from Greg with deets.. Be sure to use the hashtags #succulentsquad & #succulentlove - The community will be able to help you better there! 😊
Post your question with pics of the plant and attach the plant profile from Greg with deets.. Be sure to use the hashtags #succulentsquad & #succulentlove - The community will be able to help you better there! 😊
Found your post! Super helpful 😊