Community TipsandTricks


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Hoyaaddict avatar @Hoyaaddict · 4M
Should you repot? I am seeing an increasing number of posts about repotting new plants into larger pots. Most of the time this is completely unnecessary and it can really detriment the growth and development of your plant. After initially being stressed out after moving from nursery/shop to your home with different lighting and watering, you remove it from it’s snug home. Then you accidentally tear some roots off while cleaning soil off or detangling the roots. Then it is placed (more often than not) in a much larger pot, which could also be glazed or lack a drainage hole (recipe for disaster, there’s no way the soil can breathe and roots need air too) You think, “my baby will have lots of space now to grow big and strong, I know these plants can get huge” and this feels like a great decision. But under the soil a different story unfolds… the tiny torn roots whilst in shock begin trying to establish itself in this new home. There is so much moist soil to the left, right and below, the root systems try its best to drain what’s around it, but it can’t reach the edges of the pot or beneath. A week later, You see the top of the soil has dried and your plant looks a little sad, so you give it a water. Now the soil is wet, the roots cannot keep up, cannot grow fast enough, cannot find air to breathe or dry out, so they start to rot. Slowly your plant starts to decline, you wonder why it’s leaves are yellowing/stems are bending/mushy cores. You’ve only watered it twice so how can it be an overwatering issue? It’s because the roots were not large enough to deal with so much water in so much soil so it stagnates. “But plants live in the ground and that’s really large” you think to yourself, this is true but outside in the ground there are so many other factors at play. You have wind, deep drainage, competitive plant roots, insects and small animals all affecting the water system, you have none of this in your plant pot, not even a worm to help air the soil. This is why small snug pots are often best for your plants. Good soil is also an important factor, but I won’t go into that here. Yes, sometimes your plant really does need a repot! If the soil is bad for example, you can wait a few weeks after purchase to prevent shocking the plant, then repot in the exact same pot size but with better aerated soil. Even if a plant is becoming too top heavy and is falling over, it doesn’t necessarily need a larger pot, but you could place it in a heavier cover pot to keep it weighted down. Plants generally only need to go up in size pot wise when they have a really extensive root system, roots taking up 50% of your pot or more. Sorry for the long post, I wanted to explain clearly so the mechanics are understandable. I hope this helps some, happy growing #HappyPlants #NewPlantMom #RootRot I added a few pics of my babies happy still in tiny pots 5cm and one in a 7cm pot with a heavy cover pot to prevent toppling over. #TipsandTricks

Lazyplantparent avatar @Lazyplantparent · 3M
Happy Tuesday, #GregGang! Sending you all the good vibes today! 💚 For today’s #TuesdayTips, I wanted to create a post about the most common question topic: pests. 🪲 An inevitable nuisance, pests are unfortunately something that goes hand in hand with #PlantParenthood. But thankfully, there are lots of ways to not only treat, but also prevent these annoying little buggers. Read on to see my personal strategies and methods using mostly all-natural products! Tip 1️⃣ — Happy plants are stronger against pests. * Predictable, consistent care helps our plants grow happy, healthy, and strong. Plants that are under stress due to inconsistency/change, thirsty and weak, or just all around struggling and sad are plants that are more vulnerable to pests. * Helping our plants to stay happy and healthy is a great first step in preventing pests by decreasing their overall vulnerability! Tip 2️⃣ — You can’t treat something you don’t know about. * Catching pests early—before they do real damage, or spread to other plants—is absolutely key! * The simplest way to start would be to visually inspect your plants, especially the parts where bugs like to hide. Once a week, just scan your plants for any possible problems. so that you’ll have the upper hand by catching things early! * When scanning your plants, especially focus on the undersides of leaves, around the nodes, the stem, and the base of the plant/topsoil. Tip 3️⃣ — Prevention is a lot easier than treatment. * I like to preventatively “treat” my plants using gentle, all-natural pest deterring products usually once a week or every other week. * I rotate the products that I use in an effort to keep the pests on their toes, and hopefully reduce the chance of the pests developing a resistance to a product. * My favorite things to use are mint-based essential oil sprays, neem oil sprays, and all-natural leaf cleaner solutions. * The first spray I use is called “Mighty Mint Plant Protection Spray,” which is a blend of peppermint, rosemary, and geraniol. It’s all natural and safe for people and pets, which I love. An added bonus is that it smells heavenly, like a minty spa retreat. This blend of essential oils is said to be a natural miticide, fungicide, and eliminate many types of pests (spider mites, insects, and fungus). * The next spray that I use is called “Emily's Naturals Neem Oil Plant Spray,” which has a blend of castile soap and neem oil. Neem oil is a very popular pest deterrent and there seems to be a lot of existing evidence that this natural oil can be quite effective for reducing and eliminating pests. * I also use a cleaning spray from rePotMe called, “Wash Me Natural Leaf Cleaner.” I like this spray because it’s super gentle, but really effective! It’s made from water, organic natural castile soap, and a pinch of citric acid. Cleaning leaves is a great preventative step to remove any little bugs you can’t obviously see, remove dust for more effective photosynthesis, and help your plants look their best. Tip 4️⃣ — Cut the crap, literally. * I hate fungus gnats with a burning passion! Don’t we all? These annoying little guys are soil-born pests that love all the icky stuff in compost and traditional soil. * I made the decision to go soilless a year ago, and it was the best choice I made in the fight against fungus gnats. I hardly ever see them now, and only when I bring home a new plant that hasn’t been repotted into a soilless growing medium yet! * There are so many great recipes online for homemade soilless blends. If that seems overwhelming, there are also some fantastic Etsy shops that sell handmixed soilless blends tailored to specific plant species, which is pretty cool. “RootingForYouOregon” and “CreativePlantMama” are the two shops that I used when I was first getting started with my transition to soil-free growing. * Generally, the base ingredients for a soilless blend include coco coir, perlite or vermiculite, and bark (equal amounts of each is the “standard” suggested ratio). * Soil amendments (i.e. other ingredients you can mix in with those base ingredients to make a more specialized/fancy blend) include things like horticultural charcoal, fir needles, sphagnum moss, coco husk chips, and many more options. * If you choose to go soilless, just don’t forget to add some form of nutrition to your blend, since it won’t be getting nutrients from compost. I like to use vegan fertilizer, and recently I’ve been using Osmocote slow-release granules. * For plants that aren’t ready to be repotted, I usually apply some anti-pest granules to the topsoil. It is designed to seep down deep with each watering and attack fungus gnats at the source. My favorite is from an Etsy shop called “PlantAnswers” that makes a super effective all-natural product called “Fungus Gnat Control Insecticide Granules” which lasts for 4 months with a single application! Tip 5️⃣ — A little extra TLC can go a long way. * So let’s say that you do find a pest when scanning your plants. The first step would be to quarantine the affected plant(s), check nearby plants to make sure the pest hasn’t spread, and then treat the affected plant(s) in isolation. * After removing the pest, it can be helpful to use a leaf cleaner to wipe down each leaf, and then prune off any damaged leafs so that the plant can focus on putting energy into the remaining healthy leaves and/or new healthy growth. * Using rubbing alcohol is a great way to kill pests on contact! I like to dip a q-tip in rubbing alcohol to spot treat pests on plant leaves and stems. * From there, I like to apply the heavy-hitting “Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew,” which is a spray that kills pests using a naturally occurring bacteria called Spinosad. * I also continue to apply the mint spray and neem oil throughout the plant’s time in isolation. I usually keep the plant isolated for 1-2 weeks, or until I’m consistently not seeing any more pests. These are just a few tips and ideas as you think about which pest control methods would be best for you, but I hope it’s been helpful! If you have any questions about the methods I’ve mentioned, feel free to drop a comment below. Cheers to chemical-free pest prevention, and happy growing, #Greggers! 🪴 #AllNatural #PetSafe #PestControl #TipsandTricks #Advice #PlantMemes